What's the Current State of the Coolant Debate (1 Viewer)

[TriaxialBulls]

I now this is a , but I've just read through a bunch of old coolant threads and it seems like there aren't too many recent ones. As I understand it, Toyota Red was the main way to go for a long time, but some people would run green, mostly because it is so readily available and cheaper. Then Toyota Red seemed to get scarce for a while (around 2015-2017 it seems), and at that point green was pretty much the only option. Now, it seems like red coolants have made a resurgence, with Zerex offering a red coolant and Prestone offering a red that is supposedly designed specifically with Toyota's in mind. So with the current state of affairs, what's the deal? Seemingly the whole "run green because it's more available" argument is less valid than it used to be, and both are readily available...

 

[studawg]

I don't think that it matters which coolant you run, as long as its just one type in there. If you just picked up a new-to-you 80, and it has "reddish" coolant in it, id flush and replace with red. If it has "greenish" coolant in it, Id flush and replace with green. If its brown, Id probably fully flush twice or more and replace with some type of red, either Toyota, Zerex or Prestone.

 

[TriaxialBulls]

I don't think that it matters which coolant you run, as long as its just one type in there. If you just picked up a new-to-you 80, and it has "reddish" coolant in it, id flush and replace with red. If it has "greenish" coolant in it, Id flush and replace with green. If its brown, Id probably fully flush twice or more and replace with some type of red, either Toyota, Zerex or Prestone.

Yeah I don't think you're wrong. I currently have green in there with some sludge, I'm guessing there was a partial but not quite complete flush done in the past when it was converted to green. I'm leaning towards sticking with green at the moment, unless someone can convince me otherwise.

I did see a couple recent threads where guys were saying bad things about Zerex in particular. Their bottle just says "Asian Vehicles", not specific to Toyota

 

[jonheld]

What I don't understand is why folks don't regularly change the coolant. I think that whatever you decide to use it should be changed every 2 years.

 

[studawg]

Gross, if its green with sludge, and considering its spring and you're in Cali, Id pull the thermostat and let it all out and replace with just distilled water for now. Run that for a while and then drain and flush and replace with the proper mix of green and water.

Now this brings up another debate.

Ive seen some products for cooling systems that say they are to be mixed with BOTTLED DRINKING WATER, and NOT distilled water.

 

[TriaxialBulls]

What I don't understand is why folks don't regularly change the coolant. I think that whatever you decide to use it should be changed every 2 years.

Yep I completely agree. I apply the same philosophy as I do with engine oil: cheap/average stuff that is changed very regularly is better for components than the "super-duper-ultra long lasting neverchangeitagain" stuff that is only changed half as often (or even less frequently than that).

 

[TriaxialBulls]

Gross, if its green with sludge, and considering its spring and you're in Cali, Id pull the thermostat and let it all out and replace with just distilled water for now. Run that for a while and then drain and flush and replace with the proper mix of green and water.

Now this brings up another debate.

Ive seen some products for cooling systems that say they are to be mixed with BOTTLED DRINKING WATER, and NOT distilled water.

Yep actually I'm overhauling the entire cooling system. Every single hose will be new, new radiator, new heater control valve, water pump, thermostat, every single gasket, both the inlet pipes on the passenger side (with o-rings), and a oil cooler disassembly/cleaning/rebuild. Also doing a rear heater and ICV hose delete.

Honestly I don't think that the bottled drinking water vs. tap water debate is worth much. Both are much better than tap water, distilled is probably a bit better than bottled but some people just don't care. I don't know if I believe the whole "distilled water will eat away at metal because it has nothing dissolved in it" argument I've heard in the past, especially in cases when you're mixing it with something else anyway.

 

[ZackR]

I didn't realize there was still a debate. Make it easy on yourself and grab some green coolant and a few gallons of distilled water next time you stock up on TP at the store.

 

[fjbj40]

Everybody overthinks this. Pick one or the other. Clean system is the first start, then component replacement as necessary. Fill with you favourite color and distilled water. Run for 2-3 years, flush repeat. The 2-3 year thing is based on where you live, up north here I would run it for 5 years. We do not have the extreme heats that southern folk do so it lasts longer.
When I checked the coolant in my 80 that came out of Cali it was only good for -5 cel! That means very little coolant/ corrosion inhibitors. I run 50/50, if I was in the far north I would run 70/30.

 

[TriaxialBulls]

So when we say green, do we mean the new HOAT "all vehicle" stuff, or the old school IAT stuff?

 

[fjbj40]

It’s an old school Rig, I use old school green stuff, readily available everywhere.

 

[Heckraiser]

I try to use clean coolant, and not too old.

But seriously, I think the debate is settled and the conclusion is that it doesn't much matter. I use prestone from the store down the block. Just drained after 2 years service and it came out squeaky clean.

Green has the additional advantage of being a different color than ATF, so if you spring a leak that you're having trouble identifying, it makes it just a little easier.

 

[fjbj40]

I try to use clean coolant, and not too old.

But seriously, I think the debate is settled and the conclusion is that it doesn't much matter. I use prestone from the store down the block. Just drained after 2 years service and it came out squeaky clean.

Green has the additional advantage of being a different color than ATF, so if you spring a leak that you're having trouble identifying, it makes it just a little easier.

I prefer the sweet flavour of coolant over the atf, that stuff gives me heartburn

 

[TriaxialBulls]

It’s an old school Rig, I use old school green stuff, readily available everywhere.

View attachment 2290653

Well this brochure from Prestone shows that coolant (AF2000) is not "old school" coolant at all; it's HOAT, which is basically as new as it gets, with organic acids and no phosphates or silicates. The real green coolant is pretty much the opposite, with no organic acids, but with both silicates and phosphates. The red coolant typically has organic acids and phosphates, but no silicates. My sources are these:

Choose the Right Engine Coolant - Valvoline™ Global

Learn about the different types of engine coolant and make sure you're putting the right coolant in your vehicle. Valvoline's antifreeze color chart can help!

www.valvoline.com

https://images.oreillyauto.com/uploads/pdf/ad/SD_672%20AFZ%20Comparison%20Chart-1.pdf

Anyway, it's probably fine, although if you really wanted to run "old school green" coolant, there is stuff out there on the market that is truly that.

 

[studawg]

So distilled water or bottled water?????

 

[ZackR]

Been running this stuff for the last 65 years probably due for a flush.

 

[TriaxialBulls]

So distilled water or bottled water?????

lol I didn't mean to get too into the weeds here, just trying to figure out what's right for our rigs. One thing I read in a lot of threads (and I've heard in other communities) is that you should use the stuff that was available when your system was designed and manufactured, which makes a lot of sense to me. These "all makes and models" coolants definitely were not around in the 90's, it was basically just the 'old school green' stuff like I said and then a couple manufacturers who had their niche coolants (like Toyota with their red).

 

[fjbj40]

Well this brochure from Prestone shows that coolant (AF2000) is not "old school" coolant at all; it's HOAT, which is basically as new as it gets, with organic acids and no phosphates or silicates. The real green coolant is pretty much the opposite, with no organic acids, but with both silicates and phosphates. The red coolant typically has organic acids and phosphates, but no silicates. My sources are these:

Choose the Right Engine Coolant - Valvoline™ Global

Learn about the different types of engine coolant and make sure you're putting the right coolant in your vehicle. Valvoline's antifreeze color chart can help!

www.valvoline.com

https://images.oreillyauto.com/uploads/pdf/ad/SD_672%20AFZ%20Comparison%20Chart-1.pdf

Anyway, it's probably fine, although if you really wanted to run "old school green" coolant, there is stuff out there on the market that is truly that.

Once again, you are overthinking this!

 

[Railwelder93]

So distilled water or bottled water?????

Fiji water only

 

[-Spike-]

So distilled water or bottled water?????

Every (concentrated) coolant bottle I've ever looked at says add only distilled water, which has nothing in it other than water. RO water is extremely close to that. 'Bottled' water can be many different things, but usually is either spring water with naturally occuring minerals or purified water with minerals added. The minerals, which can vary greatly, have the potential to screw up the chemistry. I use RO because I have it readily available.