Whats limiting my flex ?

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Hulsty

Hulsty

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
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G'day all,

On my RHD FJ73 I have done a RUF, today I took out the shock absorber and the swaybar link to see how much flex I can get, I got a fair bit I think for a SUA setup. In the pics the front wheel is just off the ground while the opposing side is hard on the bumpstop. Question is, looking at the shackle I could probably get more flex but the tyre didnt want to do down anymore and I dont know why? The brake lines, driveshaft etc are on the compressed side so wont affect drop. All I could think of was that I have maxed out the steering links ? Any help appreciated.

Also I measure what size shocks I need with stock towers,

compressed ~410mm
Extended ~ 660mm


And rancho make a RS5000 that is

compressed 400mm
extended 686mm

beatuy!

Picture032-2.jpg


Picture035-3.jpg


Picture043-1.jpg
 
To be honest they dont look too bad to me. Any more flex and they would rub.
Your next step is a SOA if want more.
IMO leave it as it is and concentrate on getting lockers
 
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I think I will leave it, shocks probably only cost about 300, all other options will be more. From what I have found out its probably the bushes limiting me. Whats best to run rubber or plastic style ones? currently got plastic style ones. As for rubbing, the 33'' JUST clear with the guards chopped 50mm on the front with the inner guard raised. My 35'' will rub though, might need to get the mash hammer out.

cheers


Now I need to work on the rear!! Anyone know a longer standard spring that fits ? I tried a IFS lux spring, about 30mm to long and 75 series springs need mounts moved which I dont think I want to do, to much hassle I think.
 
i always recommend the rubber vs that poly s***. rubber has lasted 15-20 years in our cruisers but a daily driven cruiser 'might' get 3-5 years out of poly bushings.
poly wears
poly can have an irritating "squeek"
poly limits flex

poly is what the cool guys run.
 
crushers said:
i always recommend the rubber vs that poly s***. rubber has lasted 15-20 years in our cruisers but a daily driven cruiser 'might' get 3-5 years out of poly bushings.
poly wears
poly can have an irritating "squeek"
poly limits flex

poly is what the cool guys run.
Click to expand...

looks like i'll have to track myself down a decent rubber set of bushes, and some rancho 5000's, any recomendations on rubber bushes?

cheers
 
That is pretty DAM good to me also. I must be cool cause I run polly LOL
 
ok, I'm alittle confused. Is it a budget reason you want more flex?

Just so you know, IMO, traction would cure all your "flex" problems. Personally I'd move that winch guard up, it looks like it's killing you on approach. Then I'd go with traction. "Flex" IMO as opposed to traction is highly overrated. Looks good enough to me...?

Don't get me wrong, I love a droopy suspension. But is there ever really enough flex?
Then it comes to a point you needing to do something else.
 
Hulsty said:
I'm yet to flex it up on the drivers side, but I think the front drive shaft will run on the cross member since its fairly tight in there, what have people done to alleviate this ?

cheers
Click to expand...

well
you have a rhd correct?
if so then you will not rub the driveshaft since it is above the crossmember...droop could be compromised ont ehdrivers side due to the driveshaft and crossmember connecting...
 
Hulsty What happened to the Simex tires you got recently?
 
Hilux said:
ok, I'm alittle confused. Is it a budget reason you want more flex?

Just so you know, IMO, traction would cure all your "flex" problems. Personally I'd move that winch guard up, it looks like it's killing you on approach. Then I'd go with traction. "Flex" IMO as opposed to traction is highly overrated. Looks good enough to me...?

Don't get me wrong, I love a droopy suspension. But is there ever really enough flex?
Then it comes to a point you needing to do something else.
Click to expand...

your right traction does cure my problems, and to have traction my tyres need to be on the ground.......... No lockers yet, and i've gone a bloody long way without them too!.

And I like having my tyres on the ground rather than an unstable rig with tyres flapping in the breeze.
 
crushers said:
well
you have a rhd correct?
if so then you will not rub the driveshaft since it is above the crossmember...droop could be compromised ont ehdrivers side due to the driveshaft and crossmember connecting...
Click to expand...

Thats what I was meaning, when it drops down it will probably rub, what do people do to fix it ? rotate the shaft end to end so the thin section is over the crossmemeber? or cut out the crossmember and weld in a scallop where the shaft resides ?

cheers
 
Couple of questions Hulsty

I take it that ur running rear 60 series springs up front?

Is it simply a in and out process and are extended shackles advisable?

ftx-runner.
 
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Hey mate, I used 60series/middy rears. I used the main and wrap leaves combined with 5 leaves from my original 2'' lifted front back and another 60 leaf mixed in to hold the front up. All the springs I used were well used so if you used new stuff would probably need less leafs. You will need 2'' anti inversion shackles otherwise they wont fit!

cheers
 
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