Whats Involved in Turbo'ing a 2H (2 Viewers)

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Hi all,

I have a pair of HJ47 cruisers, one troopy for everyday driving and a Ute that I am currently rebuilding. I just bought a freshly rebuilt 2H engine and 5 speed and am considering a turbo?

Now I'm considering anything extreme, between 10 and 12 PSI and maybe a small top mount intercooler.

My question is what is an appropriate turbocharger?
and will I get good reliability running 10-12PSI with standard 2H internals?

Is there anything else I have missed or anything that is of concern?

Thanks for any advice.
 
AFAIK 2H should be good for 1,5 bar or so (21 psi i think) as long as you take care of the egt and exhaust pressure...
 
AFAIK 2H should be good for 1,5 bar or so (21 psi i think) as long as you take care of the egt and exhaust pressure...

No way. They don't even have Alfin (reinforced) pistons and they also have a high compression ratio and a reputation for overheating.

Stick to single digits of boost and keep EGT down. Otherwise you'll risk piston damage from over-pressure and overheating the whole system.
 
I've push as much as 20 PSI on my 2H but usually keep it at 14 PSI intercooled .. still going strong after 8 years ..

What it is a matter of how you drive and how hard you push it's the temp .. water temp will raise faster than your EGT's .. ( stock pump ) keep your cooling system in top shape and just learn how to drive it ..
 
I don't buy the "learn how to drive it" thing.
An engine shouldn't be tuned in such a way that it can kill itself through driver behaviour.
 
Thanks guys, but I wont be lifting the boost above 12PSI, and maybe running a small intercooler, Maybe a water to air intercooler using the AC radiator in front of my current radiator.

What is the appropriate turbocharger for a 2H?
 
Very interested in this thread, I plan on doing the same thing, I love the 2H, it has great torque and holds hills great, I would just like the option to speed up if necessary (BTW, I have read others say that you would have to seriously modify a 2H to get it comparable to a 2F, definitely not true, the 2H is far better than the 2F even naturally aspirated). I have done some research on exhaust manifolds and am considering a 12H-T if I can find one, flipping the 2H manifold or building my own, looking for advice on these options. I am also not clear on the best turbo for the application as well, even after reading for months. One of my requirements is a Turbo with an internal waste gate.

Here is one thread that I have found to be useful: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-turbo-for-2h.431805/
 
I don't buy the "learn how to drive it" thing.
An engine shouldn't be tuned in such a way that it can kill itself through driver behaviour.

Lucky me it's my engine and not for anyone else to drive ;)
 
No way. They don't even have Alfin (reinforced) pistons and they also have a high compression ratio and a reputation for overheating.

Stick to single digits of boost and keep EGT down. Otherwise you'll risk piston damage from over-pressure and overheating the whole system.

The Armor Grooved piston upgrade is available for approximately $200.00 over the stock pistons.
 
Hey.

I installed a Turbo-Glide turbo kit (waste gate and exhaust mainfold included...). Great kit. Easy to install. Only thing you have to do after the install is adjust the IP to keep EGTs at or below 1000* (after turbo). T.G. suggests 9 lbs of boost but thats without intercooler.

Been very happy/impressed so far. On a hill where I used to have to downshift from 4th to 3rd and almost to 2nd when reaching the top, I now pick-up speed in 4th going up. Serious improvement.

Good luck.
 
In days gone by I have seen brand new 2H 60 series off the dealership floor been turbo'd and expire after 3,000klm and seen others run for ever, it's 50/50 success rate. You say you have a rebuilt 2h, did you replace the tappet push rods as they wear the coating of there tops, for some reason this gets over looked on rebuilds on very high mileage 2h engines?

Don't get me wrong but there are rebuilds and then there are rebuilds? head planned, new precups, block bored, oversize pistons, new sleeves, new cam, new push rods, crank ground & balanced, IP stripped and rebuilt, new injectors, new water pump etc, a $2,000 rebuild or a $5,000 rebuild. And just because it's rebuilt does not mean it's as good as the day it was originally built?

I just sold a spare 2H to someone who had bought a so called rebuilt 2h from a mechanic only to find when it started it had a knock. Was your engine run up hydraulically on a test bed to see it gained oil pressure etc? also do you loose your warranty if you turbo it?
 
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I have just rebuilt my 2H, and I had an old ARB turbo on it. I also got this reconditioned. It never worked right, and in fact I beleive it was acting as a exhaust brake. It just didnt spool up untill about 3500rpm. Who in their right mind revs a 2H to that?
Anyway, I bit the bullet and bought a brand new Garrett GT28.

Its a dream machine now :) Its actuator is set at 10psi, although it does spike to about 14-15. I never let it do that though, I always change down gears when it hits 10. Water temps are perfect, and the EGT's dont go above 350c.
It pulls like a 15 yr old on school holidays.
 
Where is your egt probe?
 
Hey Dougal what is your take in turbo engine head gaskets. The aftermarket ones any good or continue using factory ?
Will go with ARP studs on the 3B and have fresh bolts for the 12HT.
 
What is the A/R numbers for your GT28? I have a 2 H I'd like to turbo and know very little about them. What's the cost for a new GT 28? Did you use the stock exhaust manifold ?
Thanks


...via IH8MUD app
 
Hi FJ

I had an old ARB turbo in him when I bought the troopy. This had the right manifold and coupling. I pretty much just unbolted, and bolted the new one up. There was only a few pipe adjustments that had to be made.

All up it was about $1600 AUD for the turbo and new pipes. Sorry but I dont know what A/R numbers mean.
 
Hey Dougal what is your take in turbo engine head gaskets. The aftermarket ones any good or continue using factory ?
Will go with ARP studs on the 3B and have fresh bolts for the 12HT.

If Toyota make a multi-layer steel gasket (MLS) then use that. There is no need to decompress engines with the boost levels I recommend. For head to exhaust gaskets you will need to accomodate more thermal expansion than originally. Stainless steel gaskets are far better here (if available) than sandwich type gaskets as they let the manifold grow/shrink and still seal.
 

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