Best of luck. My FD3s is happy to burn oil, but i have removed the oil injection and been running premix instead. Anyways, V8 swap if your gonna spend that much money on another 1fz-fe.
What would you do? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dsmud4u
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One thing I have found with the FD is that it always blows smoke at startup. When it doesn't blow smoke at startup, something is wrong. Usually I find something wrong in the vacuum system either a check valve or hose. After it's fixed, it blows smoke again and the FD is happy again.
That is so true. My Fds have all emissions removed and not Cali compliant. One had a simplified vacuum lines to retain a seq. setup with BNR stage 3 twins and one had a single GT35r setup.. Both setup on 14 psi on 93 octane tune and both run premix.....I don't mess with FDs now that i am in Cali...I could imagine having all emissions and the rats nest in place would be a nightmare in Cali....e
couple pic of the FDs..sorry for being off topic
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Back to our regularly scheduled post; OP - head gasket replacement is pretty common on 80 series LandCruisers and also why we joke about it fairly often.
I would work with a Toyota (*preferably LandCruiser)-specific shop and have them pull the head, and take some measurements. The pistons may be fine, along with the bottom end, and decking the head, setting valves, etc. gets the truck back to operational at a minimum of cost. I did this as PM many years ago for less than $2k, and at a dealership I trusted (*club associated). Point is, that's still cheaper than any swap or conversion, though prices have likely gone up a bit.
I wouldn't even be entertaining the thought of other work until you see how THIS engine can be brought back to spec. Many guys here have done their own Head Gasket work and it turned out great, it's just time consuming.
Sidenote; I had no idea so many guys into LandCruisers were also into Rx7s...
I would work with a Toyota (*preferably LandCruiser)-specific shop and have them pull the head, and take some measurements. The pistons may be fine, along with the bottom end, and decking the head, setting valves, etc. gets the truck back to operational at a minimum of cost. I did this as PM many years ago for less than $2k, and at a dealership I trusted (*club associated). Point is, that's still cheaper than any swap or conversion, though prices have likely gone up a bit.
I wouldn't even be entertaining the thought of other work until you see how THIS engine can be brought back to spec. Many guys here have done their own Head Gasket work and it turned out great, it's just time consuming.
Sidenote; I had no idea so many guys into LandCruisers were also into Rx7s...
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks fellas, I’m gonna okay the work to be performed and start with the head. I’ll report back with their findings.
I’ve read some post and jokes about it but I guess I was nieve to think it wasn’t gonna happen and I had some unicorn lol.
Here’s a pic of the FD for some more side bar until I hear from the shop.
I’ve read some post and jokes about it but I guess I was nieve to think it wasn’t gonna happen and I had some unicorn lol.
Here’s a pic of the FD for some more side bar until I hear from the shop.
- Thread starter
- #26
Wish I could hit its not realistic…plus, California. I know it can be done carb legal but it’s a little costly and I don’t have the time to complete it myself. I just need it running relatively soon.
I’m currently at Annual Training for our up-coming Mob.
Oh yeah, I didn't catch the Cali part. Definitely don't do a v8 swap.
New short block and supercharger from land tank sounds like a better solution for sure!!!
Well why not.
The 7 and the Supra. The 7 is a 93 R1, all stock except for an OG Racing Beat exhaust and Greddy hard pipes. Original Mazda bra on there too LOL.
The 7 and the Supra. The 7 is a 93 R1, all stock except for an OG Racing Beat exhaust and Greddy hard pipes. Original Mazda bra on there too LOL.
dream garage there!!! Nice collection
Something doesn't seem right, these usually let go on number 6 cylinder by the firewall and usually the spark plug on the cylinder that let's go is steam cleaned squeaky clean.
Of course there's an exception to every rule.
The bottom end on these are very Stout and your oil burning could easily be valve seals which would be taken care of when you get the head work done.
Most people find when the head is removed the walls still have the Factory hatch markings and the cylinder walls have no lip at the top and just doing the head job produces good results.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Of course there's an exception to every rule.
The bottom end on these are very Stout and your oil burning could easily be valve seals which would be taken care of when you get the head work done.
Most people find when the head is removed the walls still have the Factory hatch markings and the cylinder walls have no lip at the top and just doing the head job produces good results.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Also that trailer is likely to much for the 80 especially with oversized tires and armor just saying
Going to piggy back on this comment. If you have oil burning issues, I would definitely tell the shop that you want the valve stem seals replaced. Normally the head will go to the machine shop and they will pressure test it and vacuum test the chambers. If the valves are good they're going to resurface it and send it back. Either the shop will need to tell the machine shop to do the valve stem seals or the shop can do it themselves after the head comes back. If you don't let them know you may get a new head gasket with old valve stem seals. Of course, if the head needs a valve job then it should get new seals with that.
1) I love how this turned into a 90's muscle thread
2) Similar boat, my 1fz just developed a serious rod knock at 340k miles. Pretty sure I don't want to sell the truck, although that would be the sensible option. Pricing out Toyota new block, rebuilt head and thorough "while you're in there," vs. v8 swap. I feel like the effort involved with either option is probably similar. No conclusions yet. Sorry, not a helpful post unless you find it helpful to have someone else to commiserate with.
2) Similar boat, my 1fz just developed a serious rod knock at 340k miles. Pretty sure I don't want to sell the truck, although that would be the sensible option. Pricing out Toyota new block, rebuilt head and thorough "while you're in there," vs. v8 swap. I feel like the effort involved with either option is probably similar. No conclusions yet. Sorry, not a helpful post unless you find it helpful to have someone else to commiserate with.
- Thread starter
- #34
Yeah, I’m definitely towing at the upper limits of what it can do but I’m not sure that was the deciding factor why it let go. Coincidence…?Also that trailer is likely to much for the 80 especially with oversized tires and armor just saying
IMHO your over towing. With personal belongings and gear your probably in the 6K range. If that's your rig in your avatar it looks to have 35-37" tires plus I'm sure you were running the AC.
With 320K on the clock it was a time bomb waiting to happen.
Non Lifted stock tires these trucks are rated for 5K tow capacity
- Thread starter
- #36
Little bit of an update. The truck is still at the shop due to the machine shop being backed up. I asked them to do the valve guides and he said the valve seats in his experience are normally not needed.
Any thoughts would be appreciated…
Any thoughts would be appreciated…
Just now reading this thread...what was the end result?
- Thread starter
- #38
Well, after paying Bay Area prices for work this
and 6k in the hole I got the truck back after a month and a half. No more oil consumption and the truck feels ever so slightly peppier…
The day they finished the work is the day I bought a used 2006 Tundra. I couldn’t go much longer with out a truck and the Tundra would do a better job at towing the trailer anyhow.
Since then the Tundra has been our primary DD. Now the Cruiser can get a little rest and it’s more of our rainy day car.
Forgot to mention, I thought it required a new axel since I seen some oil and grease coming out of the right birf so it went to Valley Hybrids and got RCV Axels, a part time kit and low range reduction set of gears. They also installed the ARB Compressor and wired up the Wits End OEM locker dial.
and 6k in the hole I got the truck back after a month and a half. No more oil consumption and the truck feels ever so slightly peppier…
The day they finished the work is the day I bought a used 2006 Tundra. I couldn’t go much longer with out a truck and the Tundra would do a better job at towing the trailer anyhow.
Since then the Tundra has been our primary DD. Now the Cruiser can get a little rest and it’s more of our rainy day car.
Forgot to mention, I thought it required a new axel since I seen some oil and grease coming out of the right birf so it went to Valley Hybrids and got RCV Axels, a part time kit and low range reduction set of gears. They also installed the ARB Compressor and wired up the Wits End OEM locker dial.
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