Front driveshaft is in phase.....Not sure what others are looking at.
What wheels for 37" tires. Driveline vibration. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CrackIsWack
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- wheels and tires
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That it needs to be out of phase
I did not know that. Thanks.
Last edited:
Tom Woods
@landtank also makes them using a Toyota shaft.
There are a couple others, but you need to avoid the ones with a Spicer flange because it is MUCH thicker and you will have to replace bolts.
Some DC shafts REQUIRE you to lubricate every 3000 miles. Not kidding or it will explode and no warranty. Do your research first.
lumbee1
Native American
Process of elimination:
Remove front driveshaft. Lock center diff and go drive. Still vibrating continue to next step.
Replace wheel with Treps with aa spare set from junk yard. Still vibrating continue to next step.
Check for anything that might be loose.
Remove front driveshaft. Lock center diff and go drive. Still vibrating continue to next step.
Replace wheel with Treps with aa spare set from junk yard. Still vibrating continue to next step.
Check for anything that might be loose.
I didn't answer your question.
Yes, you can drop the front of the DS, unscrew the cap on the yoke, reinstall 90° and tighten the cap and bolt it all back together.
Now, you MAY end up with a DS that is out of balance because it was not balanced in THAT orientation and you MAY end up with a DS that is hard to grease because you installed the yoke so the zerks are opposite each other on the DS. Just be aware when you reassemble it.
Tom Woods
- Thread starter
- #28
Yeah after hearing of the drive shaft being out of wack, I was gonna pull it off and go for a drive.
Pull out the yoke and try each position 90 degree offset to see if it helps with the vibes. Tom woods if i need a DC (probably). No spicer flanges. wheels and tires. solid plan of attack. gonna be a busy weekend. appreciate the help gents! ill report back.
Pull out the yoke and try each position 90 degree offset to see if it helps with the vibes. Tom woods if i need a DC (probably). No spicer flanges. wheels and tires. solid plan of attack. gonna be a busy weekend. appreciate the help gents! ill report back.
- Thread starter
- #29
just cause I figure I'm gonna end up buying one anyway, what are the flange specs for the front drive shaft? And measuring length for a new DS will just be flange to flange from Tcase to pinion?
- Thread starter
- #30
Just a reminder to you dudes on here, y'all are absolute legends! absolute hammahs, I'd be up a creek with no paddle if it wasn't for MUD.
A bit off topic, but why did you apply fluid film for driving in Florida?
The drop brackets look scary!!
Copy and paste from my recent TW order -
flange pattern at transfer case: 60 x 60 mm (2.375 x 2.375 inches) 10mm bolt holesflange pattern at differential: 60 x 60 mm (2.375 x 2.375 inches) 10mm bolt holes
- Thread starter
- #34
Where I live right now is suuuuuuper salty. my zero rust truck from CA got chewed up in like 6 months out here. Wanted to avoid that.
- Thread starter
- #35
YEahhhh not ideal, definitely look like they'd hang up on stuff. I have the robinson's correction plates that will go in it on a later date. Just need it to drive relatively straight for the moment.
Hard to tell for sure, but your front DS looks like mine did (I'm at about 4.5" over stock, with caster plates). Front joint looks fairly straight, while the rear is angled. In my case vibes weren't BAD and not constant, mostly at certain speeds and when letting off the gas, but it would go through the rear joint within a couple years (matsuba or OEM) and need replacing. Finally got around to paying for a tom woods shaft, and it's been smooth since.
If you go that route, as mentioned, 60x60 at both ends, and length is just measured between mating surfaces with the truck at rest. The ujoints are easy to grease, but you'll need a skinny adapter for the ball on the DC end. They supply a plastic one, but recommended the plews 05-019 and it works well for me. Still a little tricky with the shaft installed, but works.
Agreed you should lock the center diff & drive without the shaft installed to confirm, but I can't see a standard shaft still being a better fit.
If you go that route, as mentioned, 60x60 at both ends, and length is just measured between mating surfaces with the truck at rest. The ujoints are easy to grease, but you'll need a skinny adapter for the ball on the DC end. They supply a plastic one, but recommended the plews 05-019 and it works well for me. Still a little tricky with the shaft installed, but works.
Agreed you should lock the center diff & drive without the shaft installed to confirm, but I can't see a standard shaft still being a better fit.
For caster, I would go with either slee or delta vs radius arms. Measure your pinion angles. I have a similar lift running 35's going to 37's on Friday. With that much lift I recommend Tom Woods DC front drive shaft. Try cross rotating your wheels. For my 37's I'm matching them with Method 706 bead grip wheels 0 offset 4.72" back space.
- Thread starter
- #38
Welllllll, I didn't do the trouble shooting with the drive shaft this weekend. Did The PHH, and the rest of my heater hoses, and a first coolant flush. I ended up just buying a tom woods DC. threw it in today, thing eliminated like 80% of my vibration! never woulda guessed.
Still not ideal, but the out of round tires are surely to blame for the remaining vibration. Time to cough up a few extra Gs on some SCS wheels!
The help and suggestions were beyond helpful. If any one needs a front stock drive shaft for some reason, hit my line!
Still not ideal, but the out of round tires are surely to blame for the remaining vibration. Time to cough up a few extra Gs on some SCS wheels!
The help and suggestions were beyond helpful. If any one needs a front stock drive shaft for some reason, hit my line!
