What Toyota Didn't Tell Us...

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Mar 28, 2003
Somewhere in NJ
I have seen posts on this board many times about serviceing the front axle at about 60K intervals. It's been preached like gospel and I've done it myself. I'm not saying it's wrong, rather I'm wondering what other things do we need to do to our trucks to keep them going that Toyota just didn't bother to tell us in our owners' manuals? If you know of any others, please post them (as well as any instructions or links on how to do it). For instance, the starter contacts going out at about 90K and burning up a host of electrical expensive goodies...God only knows what I'm missing!

Exactly. When I spoke with my service writer at the southernmost Toyota dealer in Orange county (the second happiest place on earth), he said very emphatically that Toyota said it was only necessary if they were leaking! Nothing recommended at all and suggested it was not necessary unless there were leaks or problems.
Yup...that's the stuff I'm worried about. I don't care if it needs to be maintained...I just want to know about it. If you don't "fix" it until it's a problem, it usually involves more than just a quick fix...take the birfs for example... :mad: Enquiring minds want to know.
Here is what I'm doing

every year
anti freeze flush

every 4 years
Battery (subzero death)

every 5k
lube oil filter

every 10k
tranny drain
check/replace air filter

every 50k
Birf repack (repack w/oil seal)
wheel bearing repack (ft+rr)
Diff + T-case lube change

every 60k
tuneup (plugs, rotor, cap, pcv valve+grommet)
brake fluid flush
power steering flush

50k +
full axle rebuild

every 120k
60k +
fuel filter
plug wires
alternator brushes

some will notice that this isn't exactlly what I've done in the past but it is the schedule I've adopted which will probably change as time goes on.
You need to add the air filter in there somewhere.

There is one thing that troubles me about that schedule and that's the rad flush interval. Though Toyota says it can go longer, it seems like the consensus has been that more frequent flushes is far better than stretching them out... at least as far as preserving the radiator and preventing head gasket problems. I plan to make a full coolant flush an annual event every fall.

I like your list. There is a maintenance list (Drexx, do you have it?) that was published by Toyota Gilbraltar for Land Cruisers with "heavy use." I might have it somewhere if nobody posts it in this thread.

B-, IIRC Rick has a K&N........

I agree, the coolant should not go more than one year (my opinion).
I do have the K+N filter so where would you like me to stick it :eek:? Also Toyota has claimed 6 years I thought on the coolant. I've checked mine and it still looks fine and there doesn't seem to be any grey matter (in the radiator). I do quite abit of driving though 3 years and 80k on it so the coolant is just over a year and a half old. Well that seems to fit what you guys were saying :slap:

I'll make the change
My brother-in-law gave me a Haynes manual and I was pretty impressed with the preventive maintenance section. You might check that out.

[quote author=Jonathan_Ferguson link=board=2;threadid=5822;start=msg46462#msg46462 date=1064995339]
Tyres, Springs and Dampers should all be replaced every 5-6 years no matter how good they appear.
my 1980HJ45 has it's stock from the factory dampers and springs on it still, the dampers were tested by a suspension exp and there was no problem with them
My 1976 FJ-55 had it's original stock suspension and it actually rode very well...

not bad for 25 years (at the time).

It's called preventitive maintenance.

KYB Dampers from Toyota for all model Landcruisers is $60.00 each
Gabriel Red Ryder Gas are less than $48.00 each :D

Most common 4WD Tyre is Dunlop Super Gripper 205R16 and 7.50 16 $200.00 and $210.00 each fitted and Balenced.
Most common 4WD Rim is 16x5.5 Split Rim which is $25.00 each from Dunlop Super Dealers.

Custom made Leaf and Coil Springs are about $150.00 each
Custom made Leaf and Coil Springs are about $150.00 each [\quote]

where abouts? i was considering goin 60 series rear springs, but once i got hangers to fit and shackles to fit, i'd probably go higher than that. instead i could get springs made up the length of 60 springs, and get them 40 width. hmm, options to consider
01Oct2003 (UTC -7)

I've made two files, one for the FZJ-80 and another for the UZJ-100. I'm making another one for the HDJ-80. The two are available here, and look for the ones named "maintenance checklist". (I think you need to log on to yahoo.com to see my publicly available docs.)

Of course, I appreciate feedback on how to make it better :D
How about....

1.) Empty "tuna can" every 2k miles in dusty conditions, 5k otherwise.

2.) Ream / route skylight drain channels twice annually or more so if frequently parked under debris dropping trees......
[quote author=Jonathan_Ferguson link=board=2;threadid=5822;start=msg46462#msg46462 date=1064995339]
Tyres, Springs and Dampers should all be replaced every 5-6 years no matter how good they appear.

Really? Got any new fj25 springs laying around? Spring pins, too, if you have them.

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