What tools necessary for installing components on mounted 2f engine (rebuilt) (1 Viewer)

[Beehanger]

Hi All,
My 2F rebuild is nearly complete at the machine shop, and im shipping the entire project from LA to Idaho to install everything myself. Im working at a mechanic shop right now doing business side stuff for them but I have access to the shop after hours. The shop space is tight, and Im wondering if it would be possible for me to finish build in a garage at a friends house to not take up space in the small shop and have to work odd hours. The shop wont even be available for another month even though its being shipped next week, and Im thinking it might be better just to tackle it old school. I'm curious what tools I would for the project (I own a socket set)( the engine will be mounted already) and if its really going to be worth the hassle of wheeling it around the parking lot at the shop every night (possibly alone)and waiting a month to have it towed. Im new at wrenching and this will be a bit of an undertaking, so Im planning for this to take a couple weeks - espcially if something ends up needing replacing. I want to set myself up for success so any other pointers appreciated.

 

[Seth S]

Depending on what a machine shop has or hasnt done...a press, a piston ring tool for getting the pistons back in the bores....plasti gage for measuring bearing clearance, a dial indicator and magnetic base for checking runouts on various things. I am sure I am missing something but the FSM should have a pretty comprehensive list for tools on engine assembly. You of course dont need all the tools listed but some are a must.

 

[2mbb]

If I understand correctly the engine will be rebuilt and mounted on engine mounts in the engine compartment? The stuff that is removed (manifolds, alternator, accompressor, radiator, etc) will be shipped loose and you want to install those yourself? Technically you should be ok with sockets and combination wrenches in sizes 10, 12, 14 and 17mm, a spark plug socket and some screwdrivers. I’m probably missing something but it is unclear exactly what you need to do.

 

[Beehanger]

Depending on what a machine shop has or hasnt done...a press, a piston ring tool for getting the pistons back in the bores....plasti gage for measuring bearing clearance, a dial indicator and magnetic base for checking runouts on various things. I am sure I am missing something but the FSM should have a pretty comprehensive list for tools on engine assembly. You of course dont need all the tools listed but some are a must.

The machine shop will have the engine completed and reassembled. I would just be putting the truck back together around the mounted engine.
this also begs the question would I have take the engine out to do this or can exhaust manifold bell housing etc oil pump etc all be done with engine mounted.

Thanks
Beehanger

 

[2mbb]

If the engine is assembled and the oil pan installed then the oil pump should also be installed. Maybe you mean fuel pump?

I think you can do everything with the engine installed. But someone else will have to confirm about the bell housing.

For installing the transmission and transfer case you will need a jack to raise them up to the engine.

If you are rebuilding the transmission or transfer case you will need other tools than described above. If you need to install the crank pulley then you will need a very large socket and torque wrench.

 

[g-man]

So the engine is complete from oil pan to valve cover? with the rockers on and valve cover on? You are just bolting it to the frame and putting all the bits on ...like alternator, ps pump, fan, belts, carb, vacuum lines, radiator and hoses, oil pressure gauge, temp sensor? I assume the bellhousing is in the truck attached to the transmission?

do you have new motor mounts? These are a wear and tear item and usually the drivers side gets soaked with ATF from leaking ps pump. I would replace them or at least the drivers side mount esp if it looks oily or wet. Check with Cruiser Outfitters. If you don't they can tear apart and when you rev the engine, the motor will lift/tilt and the fan will hit the shroud.

You'll need an engine hoist and a friend to help guide it into place. DONT use the bellhousing to block bolts to force the motor to seat to the bellhousing. if the trans output shaft and pilot bearing are not fully seated, use some long tapered punches or long bolts that you have cut the threads off of as guide pins to line up the bell housing with the motor. Then wiggle the motor into position. You can crack the cast bellhousing by forcing this if things are not lined up.

Once that's done your probably all downhill. You may want to rebuild your exhaust/intake if it's 10 years old. If you have a new manifold gasket and ready to install it you may as well do this now. I mean replace the gaskets at the heat riser. This involves unbolting the intake manifold from the exhaust manifold. If you have headers ...disregard this unless you think its really old and leaking. Realize if you take the intake and exhaust apart, you'll need to take to a machine shop to resurface the manifolds before mounting them back on the head.

Be careful hooking the electrical connection back up at the oil pressure sender. One of the connections will fry your oil pressure gauge.

You'll need some metric open end wrenches. 10,12,14, 17mm. Your sockets won't fit everywhere. For your socket set you'll want to get some extensions and swivels...they make reaching those hard to get to areas easier. think about the exhaust manifold bolt closest to the firewall. A 1/4 drive socket will help get to some areas.

As mentioned...a torque wrench. A pry bar or 2 to help move things into position. A pick tool, pliers, some lube for the heater hoses...to help them slide back on.

Emissions FSM for instructions on how to replace all your vacuum lines.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, I see warranty issues arising here if not careful.