What to look for when buying a 100 (1 Viewer)

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Aug 15, 2018
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Odessa Tx
I am going to look at a 100 series this afternoon is there anything that I should be wary of? It’s a 250k mile truck 2001 model and the guy is asking 7 grand. That’s all I really know about it. Any ideas on what to look for will be super helpful. I’m coming from a fj62 and I got burnt on it when I purchased it I don’t want to have regrets about this other one a year from now if I pull the trigger.
 
rust
 
Same as when you go look for any other vehicle. Try to understand the history of it, what type of work has been done, and what may be needed.

Everyone will say, oh it's a land cruiser 250k is nothing, I think that's total BS. Sure, the engine will go for a long time if maintained, but that maintenance can add up. All those parts and pieces have been spinning for 250k miles, so prepare to dump some money into it unless they have been tended to already.

Post some pics or more info about the rig and we can go from there.
 
Don't buy it without a big pile of receipts for parts and/or maintenance over the years.

Best if you can buy from an enthusiast.
 
The file with receipts should be 3/4 inch or thicker. Otherwise, it’ll need a lot.
 
I am going to look at a 100 series this afternoon is there anything that I should be wary of? It’s a 250k mile truck 2001 model and the guy is asking 7 grand. That’s all I really know about it. Any ideas on what to look for will be super helpful. I’m coming from a fj62 and I got burnt on it when I purchased it I don’t want to have regrets about this other one a year from now if I pull the trigger.

So you say you got burnt on the Fj62. One thing to keep in mind is you should at least know how to do some work on the cars yourself (which I assume you do). Additionally a lot of the structural/maintenance issues will be similar between any car. Like rust which does not change. Then Maintenance stuff like bushings, suspension, bearings, universal joints, UBJ-LBJ. These are all components that go bad eventually go or just need replacement @ 150-200k mile range. This stuff cost money to replace even if you do it yourself. Not like terribly expensive but an expense nonetheless. Do not buy expecting not to do any maintenance on the car.

Only exception to that is if someone did take care of the car through maintenance records. But most likely thats an enthusiast car and for that you would not be getting a LC/LX for $7k range.


Also share pics.. We love pics and can say a lot of the pics.
 
So I bought a $7200 211k rig. I've basically had to rebuild the entire front end. Tie rods, ball joints, bushings, etc. The brakes were done just prior to me buying it so they were good but make sure your check the pads/rotors. Water pump, Timing belt was done at 186k so im good there but you need proof that it has been done or else you will need to do that. Also check around the radiator for pink crusty. That means its leaking and will need replacement. Heater tees, random hoses, possibly coil packs and/or spark plugs. Mine is a LX so it has AHC. It all worked fine but thats something you should check out well and make sure it works in all modes. It is expensive to repair. I ripped all mine out for a lift so it was moot for me.
 
-Steering rack condition
-PS pump lines condition
-AHC functionality if an LX
-Brake master replacement
-TB/WP changed
-Heater Ts
-Radiator condition
-Inquire as to whether or not the transmission has been replaced or rebuilt given its a 2001.
-Rusty brake lines and frame, but you're in Tejas so this may be a non issue if the truck has been there it's whole life.
-Sun roof functionality (clean out drains once you get truck if sunroof opens)
 
Watch all the videos and read all the FAQs listed previously.

Here's some things that I would pay special attention to:
  • Undercarriage: Depending on where you live (and where the truck was used), some rust will be common. the rearmost frame crossmember on the driver side where it attaches to the frame rail, the transmission crossmember (bolted on), and the front, passenger side swaybar mount to the frame (which is right under the AC condenser drain. It is also common to see some rust along the frame rail weld seams (bottom centerline of the frame rail), and the gas tank skid is commonly rusty. If there is a lot of rust OTHER than this, or if the rust is particularly bubbly, you probably want to pass. Likewise, if these areas are freshly painted, be wary and ask questions. There is nothing wrong with treating rust, so long as the seller is upfront about it.
  • Body work: Of course, look for signs of accident damage. As far as rust, common areas are the lower hem flange of the front fenders (right behind the front wheel arches); the rear rocker panel area (right in front of the rear wheel arches); and the areas that are behind the rear bumper cover. Generally, the floor pans of these trucks DON'T rust unless severely damaged.
  • Check all the hard brake lines for rust.
  • Condition of fluids: Brake fluid should be light golden colored, P/S fluid should be ruby-red ATF (as should the trans), coolant should be pink or red, oil should be clean. OE filters are a plus. If the fluids deviate from what they are supposed to be, that's a sign that the P/O didn't care or didn't know what he/she was doing.
  • Heater T's should not be crusty and should be replaced right away regardless.
  • Top radiator tank should not be too light or brown in color, which indicates age and brittleness.
  • Do the brake booster test. Key off, pump the brake pedal 30 to 40 times. After 20 to 25 pumps, the pedal should lose all firmness and go to the floor (if it takes less than 20 to 25 pumps, there is air in the system). Then, turn the key to ON and listen for the accumulator pump under the hood to run. You should hear it, but it shouldn't whistle, squeal, or make any noise other than a motor running/pump sound. The pump will run, stop, run, stop, etc., but the total time (runs and stops combined) should not exceed 40 seconds. There should be no warning lights, alarms, or other indicators during this process. If any of these conditions are not met, you are certainly looking at a repair or replacement of the power brake booster. I would run this test 2 or 3 times back to back.
  • There are three (3) factory skid plates that need to be removed to inspect the undercarriage. Look for broken/missing bolts for these.
  • Be wary of an engine bay that looks like its been Armor-All'd but still has dirt in the crevices. On the other hand, an engine bay that has been regularly cleaned is a good sign.
  • Does the truck have AT tires? Is the spare matching? If not, that's a sign of a cheap owner.
  • The general cleanliness of the interior is another good sign of care. A truck that has been hastily cleaned for sale probably hasn't been generally well-cared for.
 
RUST RUST RUST, I cannot stress this enough. Otherwise typical things that wear out at that point; steering components, radiator, bushings and other rubber components. Test 4-lo, center diff lock etc. Most likely has an exhaust manifold leak haha but no big deal.
 

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