What to expect on rear end tear down?

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by Pskhaat, Nov 5, 2005.

  1. Pskhaat

    Pskhaat

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    Okay, so the 100 semi-float MUCH different than past LC semi floaters, no? No C-clip in the diff as there's no differential cover; does this mean there is a retaining clip of sorts in the hub like the minitrucks had/have?

    Here are some basic steps:

    1. Remove caliper,
    2. Use 8mm (?) bolts to back off rotor from axle flange,
    3. INSERT HERE TO REMOVE RETAINING ???
    4. Be darn careful on long side for the axle seal when splines are pulled from diff,
    5. Remove shaft,
    6. Pound out broken lug
    7. Torque new one in
    8. Reverse process.

    Before I start, what is #3? What/where is in there something to retain the axle? (I've never worked on anything but a FF and C-clip-in-diff-semi) Are there any additional seals with which I need to be concerned?
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2005
  2. Jim_Chow

    Jim_Chow

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    IIRC, on the minis, there is the backing plate, O-ring seal, bearing, retainer, and snap ring. The end of the axle housing also has an oil seal. Unfortunately, you need a press to remove the retainer. The FSM recommends replacing the retainer.
     
  3. powderpig

    powderpig SILVER Star

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    If you are trying to replace a wheel stud, I do not think you have to pull the axle to do this. I beleive the axle/ stud plate is far enough away from the backing plate to just hit the stud backward and out. First you would have to remove the rotor, which means removing the caliper. Then take the new stud and a open nut for it and put the stud through the old hole. then tighten the nut slowly and watch it seat. I also use some bigger nut or washers to keet the nut from digging into the axle/stud plate. Most axles allow a stud replacement on the truck. You may be doing more work than needed. later robbie
     
  4. Pskhaat

    Pskhaat

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    Thanks Robbie, I'll definetely check to ensure I can do that FIRST before (if) taking the axle out!
     
  5. Jim_Chow

    Jim_Chow

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    I once had a stud replaced on an 84 Extracab 2wd. I don't recall the guy pulling the axle at all. It was like a 5 min job to replace the lug bolt (can't recall how, though). As Robbie says, I think there's an easier way to do it rather than pulling the axle. Besides, those bearing retainers aren't cheap.
     
  6. Pskhaat

    Pskhaat

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    Well, I was hoping parts would have been in the mailbox yesterday, but alas must wait until this week I'm hoping soon. I'm not quite stupid enough to start work without yet even a stud or nuts :doh: , I'm generally only stupid enough to work with only ONE of each part instead of in duplicate.
     
  7. i4c4lo

    i4c4lo

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    You don't need to pull the axle off to remove a broken lug nut. You will need some washers ( I supposed you can use your wheel - but I don't recommend that) to pull the bolt thru.

    You have plenty of room to pound out the old one out of there. Like Robbie said you will need to take the caliper and rotor off. This is also a good time to adjust and check your e-brake.
     
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