what to do? - PS front shock bushing (w/AHC) (1 Viewer)

[albylam]

press out set up.. something like this

so the motorcycle press pulls to the ball joint portion

when it pulls through the ball joint press portion just falls off.

My first time but Im sure theres a better set up but I found slow steady pressure with breaker bar gave the best results for me pressing out and pressing in.

 

[Stevehats]

The FSM states to remove pressure so the truck is resting on its suspension stop bumpers.

I took the opportunity to flush the AHC fluid at the same time.

Do you have a digital copy of the FSM for the LX?

 

[melepley]

Do you have a digital copy of the FSM for the LX?

No, only a paper copy.

 

[Stripe01]

Hi I'm about to do all top and bottom bushings for front shocks. Just wanted feed back on if it improved the ride comfort for people who have changed shock bushing?

 

[melepley]

Hi I'm about to do all top and bottom bushings for front shocks. Just wanted feed back on if it improved the ride comfort for people who have changed shock bushing?

I noticed no difference in ride quality. However, my bushings were not that badly torn up.

 

[1sar39]

I replaced my front ahc shocks a couple weekends ago. My originals had 214k on them and the cushions were shot. I had some 90k mi. ones in my ahc stash with much better bushings. The ride seems to be a little smoother. It was worth doing...

Make sure to get some new "O" rings and backup rings if you plan on doing the job. They seal the high pressure ahc hose to the shock. Here are the
part #'s if you need them.

Up to 03/99:
O-Ring - 96711-19009
Backup - 90562-09005

From 03/99:
O-Ring - 90301-11022
Backup - 90562-12003

 

[Stripe01]

Thanks guys
I've put in 4 new accumulators and springs in the back plus adjusted pressures to spec but the ride still isn't as good as it should be. I'll try front bushing this week hope that sorts it out

 

[riffman12]

Is it necessary to take all the preload out of the torsion bars before disconnecting the bottom of the ahc shock?

 

[Stripe01]

We didn't touch the torsion adjustments but we bled all the pressure from system before disconnecting the shocks

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Can someone provide some more details on how to remove the top shock bolt? I don't have an FSM. I have the bottom removed, pressure bled, etc, but I can't figure out how to get the top out. Do I remove the two small (8mm?) bolts holding the hose on and then a deep socket (19mm?) to remove the top bolt? I tried that but it didn't work so I figured I was doing something wrong or not trying hard enough.

 

[l3n0x]

Can someone provide some more details on how to remove the top shock bolt? I don't have an FSM. I have the bottom removed, pressure bled, etc, but I can't figure out how to get the top out. Do I remove the two small (8mm?) bolts holding the hose on and then a deep socket (19mm?) to remove the top bolt? I tried that but it didn't work so I figured I was doing something wrong or not trying hard enough.

Yes, that's the way to do it. It's a PITA if there is the slightest amount of rust. Did you manage to remove the two small bolts and the hose & strugling with the large nut on top? If so, then you're at least half-way there

Edit: also first bleed off all the pressure from the system & watch out while doing so as the car will drop down to the bump-stops.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Yes, that's the way to do it. It's a PITA if there is the slightest amount of rust. Did you manage to remove the two small bolts and the hose & strugling with the large nut on top? If so, then you're at least half-way there

Edit: also first bleed off all the pressure from the system & watch out while doing so as the car will drop down to the bump-stops.

Yep, already got the hose off. No rust, I just can't seem to get an angle on it. Can you get it with a socket or do you need a wrench to fit in there? Hard to see.

 

[4WDarren]

@albylam Thanks for sharing some of your info. and pics on here. I had to replace one of the lower shock/actuator bushings this week, and without finding out about Siberian Bushing, I would have been stuck waiting for weeks for parts to come from Toyota and missed my upcoming camping trip!

If anyone is interested in going the polyurethane route and located in Canada, Siberian Bushing had them in stock and shipped to me in 2 days. Although it was a bit of a pain to get the new bushing lined up and started in the shock housing, it eventually went in, and I didn't have to make a relief cut in the outer sleeve like hoser mentioned.

I just made sure the bore of the shock was clean and lightly greased, as well as heating it up with a heat gun before pressing the bushing in. I fabricated a similar setup to what albylam had.... basically some 1/2" dia. grade 8 ready-rod, nuts and washers, a 30mm socket, and a piece of 2" O.D. steel pipe & thick steel washer I had in an old harmonic balancer remover kit.

I was stuck doing the job with the shock still attached to the vehicle, but if you're not in a rush for parts and time like I was, I would HIGHLY recommend removing the whole shock assembly and replacing the bushings on the bench with a proper shop press. I'll be doing that for the other side this winter for sure.

 

[suprarx7nut]

@albylam Thanks for sharing some of your info. and pics on here. I had to replace one of the lower shock/actuator bushings this week, and without finding out about Siberian Bushing, I would have been stuck waiting for weeks for parts to come from Toyota and missed my upcoming camping trip!

If anyone is interested in going the polyurethane route and located in Canada, Siberian Bushing had them in stock and shipped to me in 2 days. Although it was a bit of a pain to get the new bushing lined up and started in the shock housing, it eventually went in, and I didn't have to make a relief cut in the outer sleeve like hoser mentioned.

I just made sure the bore of the shock was clean and lightly greased, as well as heating it up with a heat gun before pressing the bushing in. I fabricated a similar setup to what albylam had.... basically some 1/2" dia. grade 8 ready-rod, nuts and washers, a 30mm socket, and a piece of 2" O.D. steel pipe & thick steel washer I had in an old harmonic balancer remover kit.

I was stuck doing the job with the shock still attached to the vehicle, but if you're not in a rush for parts and time like I was, I would HIGHLY recommend removing the whole shock assembly and replacing the bushings on the bench with a proper shop press. I'll be doing that for the other side this winter for sure.

Not to mention if you remove the entire shock you can replace the two upper bushings ("cushions") that are also surely worn and sad.

I tried two times to do this replacement on the car. Both times I struggled to hold everything in place while I tried to get the clamp to start pressing the bushing in. I would definitely encourage the bench approach off the vehicle.