what to do? - PS front shock bushing (w/AHC) (1 Viewer)

[LBridges]

My 2000 LX470 has 220K miles on it and the passenger side front shock bushing is intent on giving up the ghost. My guess is this the beginning of needing many of the trucks bushings to be replaced.

Do I go for a bushing replacement or replace the whole shock? And if I replace the shock, should I then do both front? The AHC system is working well.

I suck at searching but I did find a couple of threads on shock bushings, but none of the ones I found had a complete wrap up. That is did the shock have to come off or could it the bush be pressed out/in on vehicle. Alternately, didn't see an "If I had to do it all over again I'd..." storyline.

 

[camino70]

I too am interested in knowing this.

You say it's working fine, are there any symptoms?

 

[LBridges]

Symptoms, not really, but then again I don't know this vehicle very well having owned it for only a few months and some of that sitting idle while I read and gathered parts for a timing belt change.

I was doing a reboot of the PS front axle and thought I'd check for wheel bearing and ball joint wear. They were fine, but there was some play in the system that I traced down to the bottom bushing on the shock (shock not moving with lower A-arm being lifted/lowered via a crowbar - my old school way of checking ball joint wear).

 

[hoser]

The best way would be to remove the "shock" and disconnect the hydraulic line. You'll want maybe a 10T press to remove and reinstall the lower bushing. While in there, replace the upper cushion/bushing. You'll also need new AHC O-rings (2 per side). And then bleed/change AHC fluid.

Alternatively, you can leave the shock connected at the top mount. Remove the lower bushing by cutting, drilling, air chiseling & cussing. Take the new bushing and split/cut the outer sleeve (2 cuts). The rubber and bushing diameter will expand about 1/4". Compress the bushing with a hose clamp and reinstall bushing.

 

[LBridges]

Thanks hoser - the info about using a press vice a big C-clamp (and your alternate) is what I needed.

 

[hoser]

Sure... hose clamp to compress bushing like such. Once halfway in, you'll release the hose clamp and drive the rest of it in with your tools of choice.

 

[PADDO]

I'll be re bushing both front actuator shocks in the not distant future, off vehicle because it's easier and I'll also take the opportunity to fit new top cushions. The spare shocks I've collected show that both the bushings and cushions take a pounding. I don't see any point in installing a new shock actuator if the fitted one hasn't suffered a catastrophic failure or isn't corroded.
The bushing can be removed without a press, I did a trial run the other day (in lieu of getting access to a press) on a spare shock; mounted it in a vice, pushed out the inner sleeve, hack sawed two slots in the outer sleeve then cold chisel and 2lb hammer. It's pretty thin walled and came out easily. Bushings, cushions, rings and o-rings for both sides plus a can of fluid will run around $135.

 

[uHu]

I had the same problem. My method was:
Take off lower shock mount
Cut bushing outer ring with a sawzall
Press in new bushing with a C-clamp
Re-mount shock

Hoser's method is quite elegant tho', but I don't like having a bushing with a cut outer sleeve. I'm guessing it would reduce bushing life. Wouldn't one cut be sufficient?

 

[PADDO]

One cut before chiseling? Yea that would work and I'll do that next for real. I initially thought the outer sleeve would be much thicker and more robust so I had visions of creating a key way and elegantly chiseling the sleeve out, but a few wacks with BFH and chisel and the job was done.

 

[hoser]

Hoser's method is quite elegant tho', but I don't like having a bushing with a cut outer sleeve. I'm guessing it would reduce bushing life. Wouldn't one cut be sufficient?

I'm with you, pressing the bushing in would be my preferred method. I tried sanding smooth and oiling the inner surface mount while using a large c-clamp/socket and it wasn't happening for me. My concern was the lower shock mount would shift off-center of the bushing and rub against the side of the LCA mount but that hasn't happened. The shock is pretty square with the mount and not much side loading going on.

One cut could've been sufficient. Maybe I just wanted it to be symmetrical.

 

[LBridges]

To add in a bit of an idea, I have done some work on old British motorcycles, Norton's in particular. For the Norton tranny there is one part where one uses a heat gun on the case and puts a bearing race for the lay-shaft in the freezer - then doing a quick press in without needing a shop press set up. Was taught that way as too much pressure or pressure at the wrong angle would just deform the aluminum transmission housing. So my idea for shock bush reinstall - heat gun on the lower eyelet and with a frozen bush - push in with a C-clamp - anybody think that would work without requiring the saw kerf in the new bush? If no one can confirm I may try this as a first step when I get around to this job. I need to retire so I can keep all my hobbies in full functional performance.

 

[hoser]

If I was doing it over again, and wanted to do it on the vehicle, I'd be prepared with a ball joint press... which basically is a heavy duty C-clamp with the option of using an impact gun to turn it.

 

[LBridges]

If I was doing it over again, and wanted to do it on the vehicle, I'd be prepared with a ball joint press... which basically is a heavy duty C-clamp with the option of using an impact gun to turn it.

Good thing we are on opposite sides of the country - my wife would be looking to hurt you - another tool I will want to buy

 

[hoser]

Haha, many of the major auto parts store rent them out... some even free (i.e. AutoZone).

 

[melepley]

I just replaced my front actuator shock bushings. I removed them by cutting out the center and sawing thru the outer ring at the top of the bushing. If your patient and careful it does not damage the bushing bore.

I used a bushing installer I purchased from Amazon to press the bushing back in. I did this all on the car while I had the lower control arm removed for replacement.

 

[l3n0x]

I just replaced my front actuator shock bushings. I removed them by cutting out the center and sawing thru the outer ring at the top of the bushing. If your patient and careful it does not damage the bushing bore.

I used a bushing installer I purchased from Amazon to press the bushing back in. I did this all on the car while I had the lower control arm removed for replacement.

Do you have to release the pressure from the actuator? Or just lift the car by the frame till the "shock" bottoms out and remove then?

 

[melepley]

Do you have to release the pressure from the actuator? Or just lift the car by the frame till the "shock" bottoms out and remove then?

The FSM states to remove pressure so the truck is resting on its suspension stop bumpers.

I took the opportunity to flush the AHC fluid at the same time.

 

[albylam]

I lifted my truck up so the shock was fully extended. unbolted the lower shock mount and bleed the accumulator until all pressure was gone. Jacked up the lower control arm to compress the shock and dropped back the LCA so that the shock can separate from lower control arm. pressed out old bushing and then reinstalled new one. The ones im trying out is siberian bushing because lexus said it would take 3 weeks to ship the oem bushing to me.

 

[uHu]

... pressed out old bushing and then reinstalled new one.

Pressed out with what? Pic would be great, preferably in use on shock.

 

[albylam]

i used a combo of these two tools from princess 1) a ball joint press 2) motorcycle bearing press kit

I only used hand tools so it took longer but it was a lot more satisfying to know it could be done. The main pain was pushing the shock back onto the mount. For me I had to turn on the car and repressurize the ahc to force them together as it was a tight fit.

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