What should I do here? Taurus Fan to a V8

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Nov 5, 2013
Installing a Taurus fan into my 76 fj40. Water pump pulley is contacting fan motor. What are my options?
Move radiator forward?
Run without WP pulley?
Low profile water pump?
Buy an FJ that is already assembled?

Thank you fellas
What style chevy water pump? Long or short (what year model motor)?

Street rodders run the earlier, shorter (1960's) water pumps. Note:you gotta change pulleys too.
2x Flipper
(1) If you have a stock 6 cal., why Taurus?
(2) To use shorter water pump, you have to change all pulleys/mounting brackets on front of engine (matching set)
(3) So you are not using a newer motor with fan clutch if you are already back at the pulley?
stock 6 ?electric fan makes no sense
Lets keep this easy. First, you most likely already have short water pump. Almost 99% of the 350's did . If you do have short one then the Taurus fan is the culprit Go with a Summit fan and get 2000 cfm of cooling. Can you post a pic of your fan and front of engine?
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Thanks to all for the help. It is a long water pump. When I set the mechanical fan blade on it would have cut the lower radiator hose. It was a small stock 4 blade and I can't imagine a smaller blade exists for a 327. So I did some digging here on MUD and read the Taurus fan has been proven to work and is a cheap/easy way to go. I am open to all options. I can easily remove the Taurus and go a better route. My last choice would be to move the drivetrain. I might cry if that's my only option.

Another option might be to use a "pusher" fan on the other side of the radiator instead of the "puller" fan you have now. Be glad that you couldn't get a mechanical fan to work. I saw 40's and 80's eating radiators left and right last year at GSMTR. We were going through 4 feet of mud/water and fans just coned out and ate radiators.
Can the taurus fan housing be trimmed a little? It looks like it's close to fitting. How much more room do you need? You might be able to move the rad forward, you'd have to see how much room you have between the bib & rad & see if its enuff, or can you offset the fan a liitle? When GM used the short water pump they ran accessories & pulleys differently. The ALt was installed on the drivers side, high next to the valve cover. Did you do the engine conversion or was it done by someone else? It does look like the engine is a little too far forward & maybe a little low. How's the clearance between the diff housing & the crank pulley? Personally I prefer a steel mechanical fan or a clutch fan.
I would not blame you for not wanting to re-motor mount because that would include the cost of new mounts, modifying both drive shafts, and re-working the exhaust, but (a) your engine is about 1.5" forward of ideal position, and (b) you have very poo poo front motor mounts. You have a hot riveted frame that flexes like wet spaghetti, so the long bracket that extends up to your motor mount cushion moves dramatically when your frame is flexing in off road terrain, tearing up the rubber cushion at the engine block. Ideally you'd want the rubber cushion closer to the frame where it does not move much.
U may be able to move the rad forward a bit when u unbolt the rad holder from the frame I know I moved mine forward some
I just went and looked at my setup your Taurus fan looks different than mine. Also I looked at my rad and it seems I lifted mine up to clear the pully
U may be able to raise your whole rad assembly up to get the needed clearance
you can shim up your radiator assembly or change the mounts on your fan.
I greatly appreciate your support. Shimming the radiator up might be a quick solution. Anyone have a guess how much it can be raised up? If not I suppose I'll need to bolt the front end up and see for myself. I took a closer look and as someone pointed out, I need to better mate the fan to allow more clearance.

I took a closeup of the motor mounts. Do you guys think they will be an issue?
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Personally, I'd move the motor back. I don't know where you live or the climate you're dealing with but the motor jammed up that close to the radiator would give you air flow issues at highway speeds. In Az placement makes a big difference. Not too close to the firewall of too tight to the radiator. Getting air in and out of the engine bay is important. An air dam works whether it's in front or behind a radiator. If you use a good mechanical fan like stock GM 20" AC fan, and a good shroud it will out perform any electric short of those you see on trophy trucks.

good electric fan application


not so good

I see your prob

The shroud/fan combo is just too long. Try this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g4904 At $87 bucks you cant go wrong. I wheel at 9000-12.000 feet, sometimes at a crawl. With my OEM radiator and the fan, there are heat probs with my 350. You don't need a fan shroud. The fan attaches directly to the face of your rad. Ill take a pic of my set up today and post it
Had your engine been back 1.5" to 2", you could have used a gigantic multi blade air conditioning fan on a fan clutch. These work so well you generally don't even need a fan shroud. Problem with the electric fans is most of them are not much more than 1800-2000 cfm, and your Chevota needs about 3000-4000 cfm. As far as your front motor mount design, AA had made that design for awhile, the rubber cushions eventually rip apart from so much flex, AA then went away from that design and back to mounting cushions at the frame.

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