What oil do you guys run? (1 Viewer)

[Beehanger]

Just got my 2F machined and rebuilt. Machine shop sent need a slip of cardboard specifying which oil they said I should use. But they didn’t say which type. What do you guys run?
I’m at altitude at 5800 ft in cold ass Idaho

Thanks Dan

 

[CardinalFJ60]

Shell t6 5/40. Also in rebuilt (Robbie built-if you know, you know) at about 5500’

 

[RockDoc]

You are being told to use a conventional (non-synthetic) oil with high levels of ZDDP for break-in. Conventional because synthetic may be too 'slippery' to allow the rings to seat / bed in to the cylinder wall an create the good seal you need to establish quickly. High ZDDP because that's the additive that protects the cam and lifter surfaces from excessive wear (really important with our old school solid lifter engeines).

After break-in, you can switch to synthetic, but you want to continue to use a high ZDDP oil. I strongly suggest you use search MUD and/or have a dialog with your mechanic. Oil has been discussed ad nauseum on Mud, and it's the type of topic where 10 people in a room will come out with 12 different opinions. Pay attention to post dates, A LOT has changed over the years as oils have continued to modernize away from the standards that existed when 2F and 3FE engines were designed and produced. Running a 'diesel' oil and calling it good isn't the solution I used to be.

 

[Beehanger]

I checked an old box, I was running 10w 30 Castrol SAE before this, conventional.

Im assuming ill stick with 10w 30 at altitude?
Was gunna pick up 5 of these...

Valvoline Motor Oil, 10W-30 SAE Grade, 1 Qt. 822388 | Zoro

Order Valvoline Motor Oil, 10W-30 SAE Grade, 1 Qt., 822388 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[klinetime574]

I’ve heard of Valvoline VR1 but never PennGrade before. “The original green oil,” as their website states. Maybe I’ll try it out sometime. Your machine shop is suggesting that because that’s what we “should all be using” for our old F engines. I don’t. I’d like to switch to make the purist in me really shine though. Please do note VR1 is available in a full synthetic but I’d just stick to the regular stuff especially during break in as @RockDoc already said above.

 

[Spike Strip]

You need to run a proper, GOOD break-in oil for the first time you start the engine. Something like this Lucas breakin - very important. Then change it AFTER 500-1,000 miles to a good high-zinc oil like Castrol Classic high zinc for daily driving. You don't need synthetic.

Don't use the VR1; it's not meant for long term use. There are better oils for 5,000 Oil Change intervals, including Rotella, etc.

 

[micruz60]

‘

 

[Beehanger]

You need to run a proper, GOOD break-in oil for the first time you start the engine. Something like this Lucas breakin - very important. Then change it AFTER 500-1,000 miles to a good high-zinc oil like Castrol Classic high zinc for daily driving. You don't need synthetic. Don't use the VR1; it's not meant for long term use. There are better oils for 5,000 Oil Change intervals, including Rotella, etc.

Ill just roll with this, ordering the sae 30 off ebay

Dan

 

[bj70bc]

you can also buy zddp additive and add it to your oil of choice after the break-in oil interval, gives you a few more choices of what to buy at that point