What locker would you use? - 9.5 e-locker or Aussie Locker? (1 Viewer)

[yotaman]

I'm at a crossroads. I'm trying to decide if I want to use a e-locker or an Aussie Locker in my front FJ60 axle.

I know I need a custom long spline shaft to use it but I may be able to get an extra 9.5 e-locker super cheap so buying the $250.00 shaft isn't that bad considering I'd be spending $250.00+ on a Aussie Locker.

I'll be using 30 spline birfs and axles. This axle will be going under a 2nd Gen 4Runner with 37" MT/R's.

Does anyone see a problem with this set-up? I think people over react with the broken shaft stuck in the locker but what do I know? It still worries me, but I'm thinking it's a dead issue with 30 spline birfs and axles.

What do you guys think?

 

[Mace]

E locker if it is cheap

Cost is the main reason to do the Lockright/aussie

 

[Isotel]

First: buy the E-locker, Re-Sell and Double your Money.

Second: do you want a Selectable locker, or an auto

If you want a Selectable, i would go with an ARB, If you want an Auto, Go with the Aussie

I love my Aussie.. No Issues, and point and shoot.. no messing with compressors, lines, wires, and turning it on and off. It just works!

 

[yotaman]

First: buy the E-locker, Re-Sell and Double your Money.

That did come across my mind.

Second: do you want a Selectable locker, or an auto

For the front it really doesn't matter to me. I'm putting an 80 elocker axle in the rear for street use. But for the front as long as it works I guess it doesn't matter much.

 

[Isotel]

if you don't need to drive it in the snow, an auto locker in the front would be just fine!

 

[CruisinGA]

I run a ARB in the rear, and a EZ locker in the front. Works fine for me, I find myself disengaging the front driveshaft a lot between obstacles.

There aren't very many situations in my use where 4wd without having the front locked would be very useful.

It will be pretty hard on the powersteering, as I'm sure you're aware. I wasn't really comfortable on steep descents where I needed 4wd until i installed hydro assist. FJ60 PS alone just wasn't enough to turn 37's aired down with most of the weight on them.

 

[Eskimo]

I prefer auto lockers in the front, provided we're not talking any street use.

 

[bustanutley]

I’m not a fan of the Toyota e-locker for the cruiser diff. Auto lockers wear out over time. My front lockright was giving me trouble for a year or so. It was worn so I shimmed it a few times then stripped the teeth off one side and discovered it had also deformed the carrier. Now the intact rear is up front and my rear is now welded. My money would go to a Detroit, and it will when this old lockright fails.

 

[CruisinGA]

You can just about buy 3 aussie lockers for the price of a detroit, not to mention the install time for the detroit.

Was your auto locker used when you installed it? That would be an awful lot of 4wd time to wear out an auto locker in the front diff...

 

[bustanutley]

nope it was brand new, I wheel a lot when the truck is running and i'm not easy on it. The extra cost for a Detroit is justified.

 

[Gumby]

I would trade my e-locker third straight up for an Aussie any day of the week.

 

[Tapage]

I prefer auto lockers in the front, provided we're not talking any street use.

X2 .. at least in my off road world it provide a lot more resources and alternative on the trail .. much more if you think in the stress on components with a auto locker ..

just my .002 cents ..

 

[yotaman]

Thanks for the input guys.

I got the e-locker and the motor is rusted frozen so it looks like I've got a very nice diff but no motor.

If I can find a motor I'm going to sell the e-locker and go aussie.

 

[Bret]

You prolly already know, but there is a cable conversion that may be cheaper than a motor available from Downey.

 

[yotaman]

You prolly already know, but there is a cable conversion that may be cheaper than a motor available from Downey.

That's for sure.

Toyota wants over $800.00 retail for the motor. Wholesale is around $560.00.

A complete diff with motor is around $1200.00.

I got to complete axle so I may just part it and sell the diff for parts. It's not worth messing with it unless I can find a motor for around $100.00.

I think I can get the one I have working if I can get the actuator rod un frozen from the housing.

I've got it soaking in PB blaster right now. We'll see how that works.