What kind of fan clutch do I have?

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The fan clutch is only one part of a complete system, has you cooling system been cleaned? Have you done a proper flush? How old is the radiator m? What is the condition of the coolant? When I bought mine I just overhauled it all do to the unknown condition of components. I’m not saying throw a bunch of parts at it. What I am saying is if your putting in a new fan clutch than a new water pump is a no brainer under 100$ new thermostat under $20 new hoses under $50 for the three. It will give you piece of mind and you will know the whole system is good to go!! I rarely see temps over 190 with the new system. Radiator, clutch, hoses and t-stat. The blue clutch I used has performed great without me opening up just slapped it on. Also get the 3 thermostat and neck extension o/rings if you decide to open the system up. Also use distilled water when you mix a new 50/50 batch up don’t need any minerals contaminating your fresh system. One more thing if all the foam is gone around your radiator you can replace that for a good seal with weatherstripping to the fan shroud and that will help some.
Wes
 
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Yeah I’m not sure if 215f under load is considered overheating or not. It always cools down to under 200 when the grades level out.

I thought usually under 220f was operational for cars in general, but some say the 1fz should be kept under 203. Regardless I’d like to see my temps about 10f lower than what I see now.
They can go higher.

226°F is the temp the AC cuts out.

It's not uncommon for some on the west coast or AZ to see temps in the 210°-220° all the time.

215°F is "not" overheating. The thermostat is fully open at 180°F.

When you start approaching 240°F and above is when the thermal expansion of the AL and FE are significant enough that bad things start happening.

I have an old Studebaker (all cast iron block and heads) that shuts down at 245°F because the fuel boils and it vapor locks. It's a good thing because that's the kind of temp that starts breaking rings on the pistons too. It has to cool for about 90 minutes before it will restart.
 

Ozark80

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They can go higher.

226°F is the temp the AC cuts out.

It's not uncommon for some on the west coast or AZ to see temps in the 210°-220° all the time.

215°F is "not" overheating. The thermostat is fully open at 180°F.

When you start approaching 240°F and above is when the thermal expansion of the AL and FE are significant enough that bad things start happening.

I have an old Studebaker (all cast iron block and heads) that shuts down at 245°F because the fuel boils and it vapor locks. It's a good thing because that's the kind of temp that starts breaking rings on the pistons too. It has to cool for about 90 minutes before it will restart.
Man those old iron engines are tough as nails
 

Ozark80

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The fan clutch is only one part of a complete system, has you cooling system been cleaned? Have you done a proper flush? How old is the radiator m? What is the condition of the coolant? When I bought mine I just overhauled it all do to the unknown condition of components. I’m not saying throw a bunch of parts at it. What I am saying is if your putting in a new fan clutch than a new water pump is a no brainer under 100$ new thermostat under $20 new hoses under $50 for the three. It will give you piece of mind and you will know the whole system is good to go!! I rarely see temps over 190 with the new system. Radiator, clutch, hoses and t-stat. The blue clutch I used has performed great without me opening up just slapped it on. Also get the 3 thermostat and neck extension o/rings if you decide to open the system up. Also use distilled water when you mix a new 50/50 batch up don’t need any minerals contaminating your fresh system. One more thing if all the foam is gone around your radiator you can replace that for a good seal with weatherstripping to the fan shroud and that will help some.
Wes
The rad was replaced recently so I’d hope the coolant is decently new unless they reused the old stuff. I think I have a slow leak somewhere though since I’ve had to top up with distilled water a few times recently. Anyway I’ve been planning a flush and new tstat with fresh Prestone coolant but I’ve been putting it off since I was trying to find a leak. Hoses and HcV are all new.

I’ve heard about the foam stuff, still not sure where it’s supposed to be or how to reinstall it though.

I was trying to avoid relaxing the water pump if it wasn’t broken since I heard changing all the belts can be a PITA and I don’t want to crate more problems than I’m solving.
 

clx16

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Look under the water pump pulley and see how bad it might be weeping. It is and indicator of time to replace. Also water pump on this engine is the easiest i have ever encountered. I am not a professional mechanic or anything. But not a bad job to do. I still have my old one i think but haven't looked to see how easy it might be to rebuild (new seal and bearing). Might not be cost effective though.
 

Ozark80

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Look under the water pump pulley and see how bad it might be weeping. It is and indicator of time to replace. Also water pump on this engine is the easiest i have ever encountered. I am not a professional mechanic or anything. But not a bad job to do. I still have my old one i think but haven't looked to see how easy it might be to rebuild (new seal and bearing). Might not be cost effective though.
Yea I felt around under there and didn’t notice any moisture. I figured it’s a pretty dead simple mechanism, and it’s either working or not. I wasn’t sure if it’s the kind of thing that dies slowly though.
 
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Ditto all above: looks like an Eaton (hub not painted IIRC) which can be brought back to life by adding fluid (see Landtank's thread).
 

surfpig

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hmm that other thread makes me think I might have the Eaton unless it was changed to some aftermarket part at some point. The question ism would it be more cost/time-effective to bolt in a blue hub or put 50 ml of 20k fluid in the Eaton, if that is in fact what I have.
I *think* that's an Eaton. The aftermarket ones are hilariously wimpy looking compared to any of the OEM ones.
I had an Eaton clutch, which I R&R'd per Tools R Us' advice (we exchanged direct messages, and I read many posts about it). I thought my R&R'd Eaton with new oil was going to work just fine and it didn't. Replacing it finally brought my temps down. That's just one data point, and if you reoil and retune yours it might work fine. I tried to do that first as well, there's no harm in trying especially if you can watch your temps with an OBD reader, etc. Good luck.
I had the same experience with my Eaton. I finally bought/modded the blue hub one and never looked back.
 

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