What is your paint process? (1 Viewer)

[wsudu]

Hi everyone, In the last year I have painted my sliders, roof rack, and Labs bumper all with VHT as recommended by several people on different sites including Mud. I followed the instructions to the letter and they looked really great but started rusting in October and has gotten worse. I really don't want to do this process again so I want to do it right. I don't rock crawl, but I do expect to touch up from time to time. What products have you guys used for things like this with good results (self etching primer and enamel, POR15 + top coat, etc...) or should I take it to a powder coat shop? I should add, I have searched and read for hours. I wanted your opinions because you live here and also know local places well. Thanks

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

VHT? for something not attached to the engine? I am not super familiar with VHT but i thought it used engine heat to "cure".
I am a huge fan of SPI epoxy. Kelly @2fpower and i use the heck out of that stuff. Black has some UV barrier built into it, the other colors not so much. Topcoat as needed. I personally HATE powdercoating. unless it is done by someone that knows what they are doing. I have had way too many things bubble and flake that were powdercoated. and you cannot touch up powdercoating. Media blast to bare metal and epoxy are what i try to do. If it is rusted, POR might be an option, but it is not UV stable and will need to be topcoated within the proper window of time. Don't rush that window or you will have solvent pop (little bubbles). BUT you need to get a topcoat on the POR before the window passes or it will not adhere. My method, blast or sand, SPI Epoxy, topcoat as needed. But if it is rusted and a slider I would probably POR and topcoat.

 

[2fpower]

on fresh metal, it is important to get the coating from metal factory scale off and get down to clean bare metal.



However, I did my rear bumper through all my normal processes, and stuff flying off tires has broke through my paint and primer, and it is rusting too, so I would recommend powder coating. my front bumper and axles look fine. My sliders and belly pan have scrapes from rocks, but that is easy to touch up paint, so I would not powder coat those.

 

[wsudu]

Thanks, I will look into SPI. I only mention POR because some people have used it as an undercoat first with a lot of success. VHT says it will work on anything but I think it's best selling point is when it is on an engine it holds up to 250°, it says it cures at rt in 7 days. The appeal was that it was an Epoxy that did not require the use of a primer. I am going to take everything off and sand down to bare metal if I can't use a media blaster.

VHT? for something not attached to the engine? I am not super familiar with VHT but i thought it used engine heat to "cure".
I am a huge fan of SPI epoxy. Kelly @2fpower and i use the heck out of that stuff. Black has some UV barrier built into it, the other colors not so much. Topcoat as needed. I personally HATE powdercoating. unless it is done by someone that knows what they are doing. I have had way too many things bubble and flake that were powdercoated. and you cannot touch up powdercoating. Media blast to bare metal and epoxy are what i try to do. If it is rusted, POR might be an option, but it is not UV stable and will need to be topcoated within the proper window of time. Don't rush that window or you will have solvent pop (little bubbles). BUT you need to get a topcoat on the POR before the window passes or it will not adhere. My method, blast or sand, SPI Epoxy, topcoat as needed. But if it is rusted and a slider I would probably POR and topcoat.

 

[wsudu]

What paint did you use, JD Blitz Black or SPI?

on fresh metal, it is important to get the coating from metal factory scale off and get down to clean bare metal.



However, I did my rear bumper through all my normal processes, and stuff flying off tires has broke through my paint and primer, and it is rusting too, so I would recommend powder coating. my front bumper and axles look fine. My sliders and belly pan have scrapes from rocks, but that is easy to touch up paint, so I would not powder coat those.

 

[2fpower]

Actually the answer is yes, southern polyurethane is a two-part Epoxy primer, that you let dry for about 24 hours and then I came back and put on John Deere blitz black paint. Three coats of primer, three coats of paint