What is your must-have for a one-person, hydraulic bleeder tool? (1 Viewer)

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Vacuum has always done the job for me. I’ve never had any trouble getting the air out with it... but I have read on here of others who haven’t been so fortunate. Third party components are often partly to blame.

Until recently I’d never heard of pressure bleeders.

I do also have a little cheesy one way valve bleeder that I picked up when I didn’t have the vacuum bleeder with me. It wasn’t as fast, but it did get the job done for about $10. If it was just for a single brake job I’d go that route.

This all gets me thinking... I should suck some fresh fluid into the brake system on my other rig. The level has dropped in the reservoir and it could explain why the pedal is a touch lower than I’d like.
 
I have both a motiv power bleeder and a vacuum type. If you have the proper adapter for the master then the motiv works well. If you have to use the universal adapter it is prone to make a mess. The vacuum style has become my go to method lately. Just easier to set up and less potential to spill brake fluid.
 
About 12” of tubing that fits on the nipple. Feed the tubing into a mason jar that sits on the leaf springs. Make sure the tubing bends above the level of the bleeder, this way you can depress the brake pedal yourself and come back around to tighten off the bleeder without introducing air. Only down side is you can’t see the fluid coming out to check for bubbles.
 
About 12” of tubing that fits on the nipple. Feed the tubing into a mason jar that sits on the leaf springs. Make sure the tubing bends above the level of the bleeder, this way you can depress the brake pedal yourself and come back around to tighten off the bleeder without introducing air. Only down side is you can’t see the fluid coming out to check for bubbles.

How do you keep the brake/clutch pedal down to tighten the nipple?
 
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I use an plastic bottle with a cap, similar to a water bottle, a section 3/16 metal brakeline, maybe 12" or so, a rubber hose that fits snugly on the metal line and bleeder screw, and a wire coat hanger. Drill 2 holes in the water bottle cap the same size as the metal line and insert the metal line into the cap and slide the line down to the bottom of the bottle. The other hole is a vent. Pour some brake fluid into the bottle, so the it covers the bottom of the brake line by about a 1/2" or so when the cap is installed. Attach the the rubber hose to the other end of the metal brakeline, loosen the bleeder screw and attach the rubber hose to it. I wrap a coat hanger to the top of the bottle, so I can hang the bottle close to the bleeder screw. With the bleeder open and the metal line end is below the fluid line in the bottle, pump away. When you push down the pedal it forces air out and when you let up, no air gets in because the end of the metal line is under the brake fluid level in the bottle.
 
How do you keep the brake/clutch pedal down to tighten the nipple?

You don’t. The idea is that any air will be trapped in the high part of the tubing, so you can release the brake pedal without sucking air back into the system. It’s the same principal @pb4ugo is describing, albeit less elegant ;)
 
...and make sure you check your MC reservoir fluid level often.
 
I have both a motiv power bleeder and a vacuum type. If you have the proper adapter for the master then the motiv works well. If you have to use the universal adapter it is prone to make a mess.

I have a Motive Products power bleeder also, and this was my experience too. Works great when you get a perfect seal on the top of the master cylinder reservoir, but it can be a PITA to get that seal.

A vacuum pistol is the tits for bleeding small brake systems like motorcycles; I haven't used it on a Land Cruiser but I'm sure you could.
 
I just use speedi-bleeders. Simple one-person deal.

 
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When I have done it two-person, traditional tube in a bottle method, it was like performing CPR. Pump, pump, pump, "clear," crack the bleeder, then close the bleeder, "closed," then repeat, pump, pump, pump, "clear," etc. Do this until the master needs life-support, then start over. The idea was to rapidly release pressure, so that the bubbles could make it thru the low points without gravity allowing them to fizz back up.
 
A piece of tubing the fits snugly over the bleeder valve and inserted into a suitable container. I filled the container enough to submerge the tube. Open the bleeder valve, pump brake and release brake pedal slowly. This allows the air to escape and draws in fresh brake fluid. I serviced all my brake in no time at all. All in all it cost <$10 and in my case I ate some good ice cream.

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Speed bleeders, tubing and a jar. I would have some trouble getting a hard pedal before the speed bleeders (if I was by myself), I think a little air would get drawn back in if I opened the bleeder too much. It seemed more problematic on the rear drums. I tried to get my Sheppard to assist but depressing and holding the pedal is just one thing he won’t do. Once I installed the speed bleeders it solved the problem, no problems doing the job by myself now.

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I have a Motive Products power bleeder also, and this was my experience too. Works great when you get a perfect seal on the top of the master cylinder reservoir, but it can be a PITA to get that seal.

A vacuum pistol is the tits for bleeding small brake systems like motorcycles; I haven't used it on a Land Cruiser but I'm sure you could.

I have just about retired the Motive, except for using on BMW's because they have screw on caps. I use the vac pistol to flush brake systems on cars often. I use a turkey baster to remove most of the fluid in the reservoir and fill with fresh fluid. Start at the furthest wheel and bleed until you get fresh colored fluid. Keep an eye on the fluid level. You really should flush brake fluid every few years.
 
I love/hate speed bleeders. When they work they’re the bomb, but I’ve a high failure rate. Now I keep a few spares on hand.
 
Grab a coke bottle out of the trash. Grab a piece of clear plastic tubing off the shelf. If ya can't figure out how to make it all work... ask an old guy.

Mark...
 

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