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What is a FJ40?

Discussion in 'Chit-Chat' started by droopydawg, Aug 9, 2005.

  1. droopydawg

    droopydawg

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    Newbie FJ'r here in Atlanta.
    Wife and I just picked up a '78 FJ40 yesterday from a guy in Marietta. Found and bought it through EBAY.
    I am going to be in this place often as we fix this sucker up, but for now...
    What does the 40 in FJ40 stand for? A 4 litre? 40hp?

    Only runs with choke half way out. Pushed in any further and it stalls. Was is the cause and what is the fix? Carb rebuild, new carb altogether, or should I bite the bullet and get a weber (not the BBQ grill kind)?

    Thanks

    Drew
     
  2. trainrech

    trainrech

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    Spend the next few days in this order:

    1) Buy a star.
    2) Test the search function.
    3) Spend time scrolling through this section of the forum.
    4) Check in the tech section on this website for general information on what you just purchased.

    I'll give you your first hint..."Fuel Cutoff Solenoid". This *may* be where you want to start with your choke issue.

    Welcome to the club, newbie!!!
     
  3. Clyde-2

    Clyde-2

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    Here are some of the things the 40 stands for:

    $40 a day minimum for restoration and toys to fix it up.
    40 hours a week that you will spend working on it.
    40 people a week that will call it a J**P
    40 times a month that your significant other will bitch about it.

    FJ stands for F*ck Jeep.

    ........and just so you know. This post is useless without pictures!!

    Post some pics of your rig newbie. And welcome! :cheers:
     
  4. dfmorse

    dfmorse

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    FJ40 series

    Drew;
    You can start with this:

    http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/index.html

    The choke: pushed all the way in the FJ40 (1978) w/stock carb should idle nicely, around 400-600 rpm. First click out on choke is fast idle, all the way out is for cold starting.

    dfm

    PS: pics of outside and engine will help us help u... :cheers:
     
  5. droopydawg

    droopydawg

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    I shoulda known to do that, from other forums I am on.

    Just for starters, a few pics.
    And thanks for the welcome and advice!
     
  6. red dirt squirt

    red dirt squirt

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    nice ride....a bit cancerous but, it definitly has potential. take some steel wool and dish soap to those hub caps and they will look brand new. might wanna get crackin on some of that rust first. welcome newbie.....be prepared to spend about 40 hours a week on the forum. You'll offer your friends free beer to work on the rig and more than likely they will drink 40 beers while watching you work on your rig.
     
  7. stayalert

    stayalert SILVER Star

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  8. John Smith

    John Smith In the garage

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    By East Coast standards that is a pretty darn rust free 40. The terrible strips on the side are classic late 70s, mine had them also.

    Your carb probably is years overdue for a rebuild so I would start by rebuilding it or send it to Jim Chenoweth in Ohio who will rebuild it right if you don't know how. Search for "Jim C." and "carb" here for his contact info.

    I would change all the fluids and drive the thing and enjoy it this Summer, then go at the rust over the Winter. I made the mistake of diving into "fixing" my 40 right after picking it up and should have just driven the thing and read the forums for a few months before deciding to tear it apart.

    Welcome!
     
  9. droopydawg

    droopydawg

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    Thanks for the welcome.

    Guy I bought it from only had it 3 weeks....he found a used JxxxP that he would rather have. Before this, it was a farm truck in Missouri.
    I dont know how to weld, but that is my first job, to find someone here that does and learn from them while they replace the driver-side and passenger side floors, rear bed and rear sill. Rusted through at the back, so we can not put the back doors on until fixed.
    The surface stuff and tinkering in the engine I can play with myself...can't make it any worse at least.
    I have more pics but I think I am at my kb limit.

    Color code 532? Did not see that in TLC. Old Yeller?
     
  10. wob

    wob

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    Do NOT put a Weber carb on it!!!!
     
  11. ken_79-fj40

    ken_79-fj40

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    I second the Jim C or Marks off road carb rebuild idea. I run a weber, and for what I have and what I use my truck for, it's fine. But mines totally desmogged and doesn't see much off road use. Besides, you couldn't get a weber right now even if you wanted too. Weber is on strike, and nobody knows when carbs will be available again. And get yourself a decent 110 mig welder that uses shielding gas. Super easy to use once someone gives you some pointers. You can even get prefabbed panels from cool cruisers if you don't feel like being a master fabricator.
     
  12. PUPTLAM

    PUPTLAM

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    Welcome Newbie. Nice rig. I agree with John Smith, e njoy it for the rest of the summer before working on it. You will have the rest of your life to work on it, and you will! :bounce: :flipoff2: :bounce:
     
  13. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise

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    No Weber - don't go there
     
  14. brian

    brian SILVER Star

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    webers really are not that bad, HOWEVER since you have an aisan(or whateveRR) re-biuld that.

    i don't think the 40 stands for anything special, other than 40 series.
     
  15. freightdog

    freightdog

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    40 people a week that will call it a J**P

    Now that is funny!

    Welcome! and enjoy the 40! Ain't nothing finer!
     
  16. zebrabeefj40

    zebrabeefj40

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    Drew,

    Looking at all that original, 27 year old vacuum hose under that hood, the FIRST thing I'd try is replacing ALL the rubber hoses. For sure there are a couple vacuum leaks in there. Closing the choke half way richens the mixture compensate for how much the vacuum leaks are leaning it out. Then you can see if you need to spend some big coin on a good carb rebuild... Probably need to buy close to 40 FEET of the small diameter vacuum hose. BTDT.

    In general, I'd replace all the fluids and filters, tune it up and replace all the hoses and belts. In essence, get it to good running stock condition. Then figure out if you need/want to modify it from there.

    Looks like a nice starting point. Enjoy the experience!

    Nick
     
  17. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew On the way there SILVER Star

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    I thought the 40 was the maximum sustainable COMFORTABLE cruising speed. It works for 55s, 60s, 80s, and 100s.
     
  18. T Y L E R

    T Y L E R

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    How is it people just don't see how butt ugly 40's are??


    :flipoff2:
     
  19. droopydawg

    droopydawg

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    ok. dove into the engine compartment for about an hour last night. those little rubber hoses are little brittle plastic hoses now. no doubt they are the originals. a few were indeed disconnected. opened the air cleaner and DANG, could it have been the original air cleaner too? Never seen a black air cleaner before, not to mention the old abandoned mud-hut building wasp nests in the air cleaner and the rest of their community all over the engine compartment. (the guy I bought it from said that it had sat in a barn or feild for several years when he finally bought it) tonight, i will check the distributor cap, rotor and plugs and get them replaced if necessary, which they probably do considering the condition of the air cleaner.
    looking forward to the weekend, so the wife and i can tackle the fluids. (yes, i said wife....this is actually her FJ, she just will let me drive it once in a while)
    speaking of fluids, what do the rest of you run in yours? i was thinking going full syn unless the rest of you recommend not. I run full syn in my fronitier and my motorcycles.
    cant wait for the service manual to get here....saw things in there that have me perplexed...unplugged electircal connections that lead no where and pullys that pull nothing, for lack of a belt.
     
  20. droopydawg

    droopydawg

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    You see an ugly woman, she is just ugly.
    But if you see a REALLY UGLY woman, she is HOT in a demented sad sort of way.