What I need to know before I buy (1 Viewer)

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Mar 17, 2009
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My uncle's wife's nephew passed and they are selling a lot of his stuff off for medical expenses. He told me I could get his 83 landcruiser for 2k. I know very little about lc's (in general, and this specific one) so I am here to ask ya'll what I need to ask him before I make the drive to look at it. As best I can tell, it is an FJ60 since it has m/t? I don't know the miles, but how many can these things normally get? I don't even know what motor is in it. I have seen just a few pics and it is a 2-tone tan/brown exterior with tan interior. Looks good other than a few cracks in dash and worn driver seat. Only one pic of exterior and couldn't see any rust, but it wouldn't show good on brown anyways. I am about to call him back but want to know what things I should ask/be aware of/look for in these things other than the typical "does it run good". From what I read on here, rust is the most common issue. I guess to sum up, I know what to look for in general, but what things LC specific should I find out? Sorry for the long message. THanks ya'll.

Heres an attempt at posting a picture.
DSCF0214.jpg
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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Welcome to MUD


That is a pretty clean looking FJ. Check for rust in the rear quarter panels, etc.
 
Joined
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Looks like there is some typical cruiser rust above the rear wheel wells, mine has 284,000 miles on it, and still runs (though not well, but I'm working on that) they commonly go over 300,000 without a rebuild.

The tires look like they have tread left, the springs look pretty flat (common after 25 years)

Chrome looks shiny, no visible bubbling in the tint, still has the chrome snake blinders..nice

Different rims on the front then back....interesting


The engine is an inline 6 (4.2 I think), later years (88-90) went to a smaller inline 6 that was fuel injected and had an auto transmission, and power locks and windows for the weak.

The manual transmission is a 4 speed

I wouldn't worry too much about the rust over the wheel wells, but you'll want to get it taken care of, examine carefully for frame rust. The inside of the frame rail has some funky inner c-channel thing, if it is rusting it starts to separate like pie crust, you'll see what I mean if you have the problem. Also check the inside of the tailgate near the hinge, and behind the mudflaps.

All in all, if it runs well, 2k is not a bad price. I might offer less, based on the fact that they are trying to get rid of stuff and there is some rust, and you don't really know the running condition or service history. (of course they are family, and for a good cause, so let your conscionse be your guide)
 
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Montana
I just went through this purchase as well and wondered about the same LC-specific questions as you. After driving many, I just knew which ones felt right and which ones, not so much. A lot of it is going with your gut feeling. Make sure the engine is strong. Ask the usual questions- does it start easily when it's hot or cold? Does it idle properly or is it erratic? Does it maintain proper temp.? How often does it use up a quart of oil? Has it ever overheated or boiled over? Make sure the tranny's strong- has it ever been rebuilt?

Sounds like you've already been forewarned about Mr. Rust. But remember, this truck is older so the chances of it being totally rust free is pretty low. For my needs, a solid, mechanically sound vehicle with a little rust was more appealing than a totally clean LC with a bad engine. I've already built a vehicle from a pristine chassis and I'm not looking to do it again- especially for a vehicle I know I'm going to rally hard. I didn't want to spend as much or more the first year after purchase than I did when I bought it (and this is common when purchasing older cars that we are emotionally attached to- take it from me)... :rolleyes:

Just know what you're getting into, what $$ you can expect to spend on immediate repairs. 2K is a good price- especially when you know the $$ is going to a family member's medical expenses.

Love the two-tone by the way. Looks like a great rig- Have fun!
 
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I wouldn't worry too much about the rust over the wheel wells, but you'll want to get it taken care of, examine carefully for frame rust. The inside of the frame rail has some funky inner c-channel thing, if it is rusting it starts to separate like pie crust, you'll see what I mean if you have the problem. Also check the inside of the tailgate near the hinge, and behind the mudflaps.

All in all, if it runs well, 2k is not a bad price. I might offer less, based on the fact that they are trying to get rid of stuff and there is some rust, and you don't really know the running condition or service history. (of course they are family, and for a good cause, so let your conscionse be your guide)
Pie crust. Yeah, mine has that. Good description.

skinny, about all I can add is that if you have to worry about emissions testing, the 60s can get a little expensive to get through smog if they don't pass, and this goes double if you live in a state that functionally tests and visually inspects things rather than just checking the tailpipe and calling it done. I don't know if this is much of a concern to you, but something to keep in the back of your mind.
 
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You are getting some good advice on stuff, particularly the warning on the smog exam. From the looks it has some aftermarket attention..ie, the paint job, wheels, and window tint. Somebody's been working on it. $2K is an OK price but you should be prepared to spend at least that much doing basic stuff (brakes, muffler, battery, fluid changes, radiator, whatever. I guess the basic question is "do you either need it or want it?" A second question is " what do you plan to do with it?" Daily driver/basic transportation? Off road vehicle? Fishing car? dog Hauler? Ride for a teenager?
 

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