What Height and Model # Air Bags With A Lift? (1 Viewer)

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Hey All,

I've grown weary of my truck losing 2" of lift when loaded down for a family camping trip. I'm looking at installing Air Lift or Firestone air bags in the rear. I have a TJM 2" progressive lift, which I'm very happy with other than this issue.

I've read on Mud differing opinions on whether I should use stock height air bags, or install taller bags. It seems like taller bags will fill up the taller springs and do a better job of compensating for load, though some have said they (taller bags) will limit articulation. I'm not understanding why/how a taller bag which is only nominally inflated would limit articulation.

I do some moderate wheeling, but not while loaded. When wheeling I would have the bags inflated to whatever minimal amount the manufacturer specs as required at all times (5-10 psi?).

What say you about whether to get taller bags to account for my lift, or regular height bags?

Thanks for your input.

-Russ
 
I installed airlift bags 4 or so years ago. Part number 60755. I’m running 50mm ironman lift coils. They’ve been issue free for the most part. Since my trip to Moab in March, one of the lines going to the bottom of the bag has developed a slight leak. I suspect the fitting just came loose and the line has been slightly pulled off the bag.
 
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Get ones to accommodate the lift. I use Airlift and I have mine joined on one common hose. I fill externally. You can also use a bicycle pump.

Call Airlift direct, give them your vehicle application, then let them know your about of lift from stock. They will give you the correct kit number.

Then I order from Summit Racing along with brake pads or a TG nuts kit and get free shipping.
 
x2 on asking Air Lift. One thing to realize is that the airbag in this application does not really work by pushing up/down on the spring seats, but instead creates resistance to spring compression by filling the voids between spring coils. Here is the explanation from Air Lift.


Capture.JPG
 
Yep, you just need the stock FZJ80 bags. They work differently than a standard leaf spring version.

I'm running the stock application Airlift bags with a 4" lift. Also very happy with them. I've had them since last summer and have hundreds of miles offroad with them with no issues. Only thing I had to do is open up the hole on the bottom spring perch.
 
Please report back when you get them installed. I also have TJM 50mm progressives and ocasionally tow a camper. The springs actually handle quite well when loaded up with the camper, but squat A LOT. I'm worried I'll wear them out or create other problems by raising/dropping the rear suspension with all the weight.
 
I don’t remember the part number. I looked up the “official part number” from air lift and jotted down the dimensions. I then went to the airlift chart and found a set of bags that were the same diameter but 2” taller and ordered them. I think the application was a Ford cargo van. Eventually I simply got the correct rate springs and ditched the airbags.
 
So, I called Airlift customer service (they are very friendly and responsive, I might add).
The stock bag is part number 60728, but with a 2" lift the recommended to me 60808, which is a 9.5" tall bag. They actually asked me to measure inside my spring with a tape measure, and the height I got was 10.5". However, in light of not knowing how closely I can trim the rubber tower thing in the spring (what is that? not a bump stop, right?) he suggested I go with 9.5".
I'll report back after the installation.
 
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So, I called Airlift customer service (they are very friendly and responsive, I might add).
The stock bag is part number 60728, but with a 2" lift the recommended to me 60808, which is a 9.5" tall bag. They actually asked me to measure inside my spring with a tape measure, and the height I got was 10.5". However, in light of not knowing how closely I can trim the rubber tower thing in the spring (what is that? not a bump stop, right?) he suggested I got with 9.5".
I'll report back after the installation.

My instructions when I installed them on my stock springs had me remove the rubber bump stop completely (internal to the spring).

I had considered adding a short bumper back in or going with the taller bags. I'm going to go with the taller bags.
 
Here's the stock fzj80 bags on my truck with 4" slee springs and no bump stops. They pretty much take up the entire space.
20190518_170007.jpg
 
For other following the applicability of the AirLift bags to our trucks, there appear to be 3 options.
Stock height: 8.5" tall bag, kit 60728
For a 10.5" height bag (presumably for a 2" lift), kit 60755, also kit 60927 is the same dimensions
For a 9.5" height bag (for those who have a 2" lift but aren't sure about clearance maybe?), kit 60808

I'll post again after installation.

Did you guys remove your springs during installation or just sneak the bags in the side of the coils?
 
For other following the applicability of the AirLift bags to our trucks, there appear to be 3 options.
Stock height: 8.5" tall bag, kit 60728
For a 10.5" height bag (presumably for a 2" lift), kit 60755, also kit 60927 is the same dimensions
For a 9.5" height bag (for those who have a 2" lift but aren't sure about clearance maybe?), kit 60808

I'll post again after installation.

Did you guys remove your springs during installation or just sneak the bags in the side of the coils?

I removed mine in order to remove the interior bump stops. I also broke off one bolt on the bump stop when I did it.
 
x2 on removing the spring as you will need to remove the internal bump stop. Besides that, the Air Lift rubber is quite stiff and trying to wedge it through the spring coils would be an exercise in futility.
 
x2 on removing the spring as you will need to remove the internal bump stop. Besides that, the Air Lift rubber is quite stiff and trying to wedge it through the spring coils would be an exercise in futility.

Okay, roger that. Thanks for that tip. I'll plan to pull the springs.
Do you suggest I run the lines through the top or bottom? AirLift suggests the bottom, but an online video I watched ran them through the bottom. Any drilling needed if I run them through either way, if you know?
Thanks again.
 
I installed the stock size air lift kit with my TJM progessive coils. I cut the bottom 2" of my bumpstop off, and ran the air line through the bottom. I didn't expand the whole. 2 years out, including a trip to Moab with lots of flexing. I haven't had any issues. I air up when hauling a load or trailer. Air down when offroad. I plumbed each line separately.
 
Through the bottom per instructions.
 
2" Ironman lift with full armor and loaded, am using the Airlift 60808. Also planning to replace the springs with OME 864 after installing an auxiliary fuel tank.
 
Update here after installation.

I bought and installed a 9.5" height bag (for those who have a 2" lift but aren't sure about clearance maybe?), kit 60808.

The installation took me about 3 hours, and getting the springs in and out is the toughest part. Does anyone else really wish they had a hydraulic car lift? I sure do.

If you're going to install air bags in the rear, you'll need 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets, extensions, and one of those pyramid shaped step drill bits.

You'll need to detach the three 12 mm nuts which hold the brake line, electrical connector and E-brake cable from the crossmember just forward of the rear axle. They are easy to spot and reach. You need to detach those so you don't stretch or break them when you drop the springs out.

You'll also need to detach the sway bar and the shocks. I just detached the "elbow" on each side of the sway bar, which is a 14mm through bolt just below the forward sway bar mount. When you reattach those elbows be careful with the bushing inside as its easy to mangle.

Also, there is a hole below the coil spring where the air line will go through. Another Mud member posted that he did not drill out that hole for the small air line coming out of the bottom of the bag, though Air Lift's instructions recommend drilling it out to 3/4". The existing hole is a tight fit for the air line and tiny clamp which sits on it. I just drilled them out to 3/4", it only took a few minutes and it's some peace of mind.

The easiest way to get the rear shock detached for this purpose it to remove the 17mm bolt on the bottom of the shock and just push it to the side a bit. I left the shock tops attached.

All in all, the installation was not a technically difficult job by any means. The springs are darn heavy and you have to be careful not to break the ABS wires that sit right outside the springs.

I've played around with the air bags being from 5-35 pounds. At 35 pounds they are a lot firmer than uninflated, and I'm sure they'll prevent droop for a heavy load. The Air Lift instructions say you can put 100# in the bags, but I can't see doing that. I did go on the Miller Jeep Trail in SoCal over the weekend, after install, and ran it with the bags at 10#. The bags held up fine, through a lot of compression and flex. It was actually the most difficult trail I've run, and my OPOR sliders took a lot of hard hits. Lots of fun, but I was glad to make it to the top of the last hill.

Cheers,
Russ
 
Reserved for installation photos
 
Update here after installation.

I bought and installed a 9.5" height bag (for those who have a 2" lift but aren't sure about clearance maybe?), kit 60808.

The installation took me about 3 hours, and getting the springs in and out is the toughest part. Does anyone else really wish they had a hydraulic car lift? I sure do.

If you're going to install air bags in the rear, you'll need 12, 14 and 17 mm sockets, extensions, and one of those pyramid shaped step drill bits.

You'll need to detach the three 12 mm nuts which hold the brake line, electrical connector and E-brake cable from the crossmember just forward of the rear axle. They are easy to spot and reach. You need to detach those so you don't stretch or break them when you drop the springs out.

You'll also need to detach the sway bar and the shocks. I just detached the "elbow" on each side of the sway bar, which is a 14mm through bolt just below the forward sway bar mount. When you reattach those elbows be careful with the bushing inside as its easy to mangle.

Also, there is a hole below the coil spring where the air line will go through. Another Mud member posted that he did not drill out that hole for the small air line coming out of the bottom of the bag, though Air Lift's instructions recommend drilling it out to 3/4". The existing hole is a tight fit for the air line and tiny clamp which sits on it. I just drilled them out to 3/4", it only took a few minutes and it's some peace of mind.

The easiest way to get the rear shock detached for this purpose it to remove the 17mm bolt on the bottom of the shock and just push it to the side a bit. I left the shock tops attached.

All in all, the installation was not a technically difficult job by any means. The springs are darn heavy and you have to be careful not to break the ABS wires that sit right outside the springs.

I've played around with the air bags being from 5-35 pounds. At 35 pounds they are a lot firmer than uninflated, and I'm sure they'll prevent droop for a heavy load. The Air Lift instructions say you can put 100# in the bags, but I can't see doing that. I did go on the Miller Jeep Trail in SoCal over the weekend, after install, and ran it with the bags at 10#. The bags held up fine, through a lot of compression and flex. It was actually the most difficult trail I've run, and my OPOR sliders took a lot of hard hits. Lots of fun, but I was glad to make it to the top of the last hill.

Cheers,
Russ

Wow! Airlift said they are good for 100 PSI?

My instructions on the standard bags said a minimum of 5 PSI to keep them in place at all times, and a maximum of 35 PSI. Otherwise, they will blow out. I have had one set of the bags blow out through the springs at maybe 45 PSI. I am very careful now to not go over 35 PSI on mine now.
 

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