engine bay pics?
WDYD What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
What did you do....
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oh joy, the hard lines for the fuel tank are also fubar. Instead of COTR this week, I'll be dropping my gas tank! fmr
Figured this was a better place for these then under a chair in the mudroom.
Yes, I rushed it at the car wash.
Yes, I rushed it at the car wash.
Enjoy! Just completed that job, not super enjoyable.
Just did a quick job, stayed away from electrical components. I’ll use APC and a brush this weekend to get the rest.
Looks like the engine wiring harness, from the firewall to the engine, has popped loose from the retaining clip/ hanger
replaced all front AHC shock bushings, full suspension fluid flush, interior detail, e-locker wired in and running.
Just bought FZJ100 last week (09/1999). Observed some torque steer, replaced front lower arms, rear upper and lower link rod bushes, now drives fine. Left axle boot was leaking, replaced both left and right ones. The valve cover seal was busted and oil was leaking, replaced. New PS reservoir and hose, spark plugs, air filter the regular oil/filter change. Exterior and interior cleaning and polishing.
I replaced the rear panhard bar (trackbar) on my 370,000mile Midwest rusty rig. I fully expected removing the two bolts to take several hours and require heat and a cutting tool. The bolts came right out and slid through the bushings with no effort. The old panhard bar was replaced in less time than it took to find my 1/2" metric sockets. Color me impressed!
New wheel bearings, tie rods, cv boot, getting ready for Cruisers on the Rocks.
Finally got to the CruiserDM parts that have been riding corner of my desk for weeks.
Old and busted:
New hottness:
Install was pretty easy, though fishing the OD override switch wires was a pain. I actually wound up just cutting and extending those instead of trying to keep it all stock. Crimped, taped, sealed, wire-loomed and zip tied, they’re solid.
My last wrinkle is getting the shifter reattached correctly (the little screws are not threading in yet) so it’ll work 100%, but I’ll get that done soon.
Old and busted:
New hottness:
Install was pretty easy, though fishing the OD override switch wires was a pain. I actually wound up just cutting and extending those instead of trying to keep it all stock. Crimped, taped, sealed, wire-loomed and zip tied, they’re solid.
My last wrinkle is getting the shifter reattached correctly (the little screws are not threading in yet) so it’ll work 100%, but I’ll get that done soon.
Man- when stuff like that happens I get all tense a couple of days waiting for the universe to slap me with something else. 😂
YezusLX
SILVER Star
I am about to do this exact install. How much does that OD job suck? 2 beverages? 4?
Here’s a list of things I’ve done over the week:
Installed Slee 2nd battery tray, capped of power steering reservoir, tightened clamps on power steering reservoir, installed Optima group 35 yellow top, wired Ironman 4x4 dc to dc charger w/ solar input, installed ARB compressor with swivel fitting (have not finished wiring on ARB compressor), fixed passenger seat bolt threads and installed new seat bolt.
Replaced AC condenser, removed weed baggy my brother in law left in my Land Cruiser from AC fan after I told him not to smoke weed in my car while I let him borrow it, installed new Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws, put RTT back on the roof for camping season this fall.
What’s left to do?
Wire ARB compressor, install Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, install Ironman 4x4 diff drop kit, order and install solar panels (or at least have a quick disconnect wired up to use them), order and install fuse block, install Pure sine inverter after fuse block install.
Go camping.
Installed Slee 2nd battery tray, capped of power steering reservoir, tightened clamps on power steering reservoir, installed Optima group 35 yellow top, wired Ironman 4x4 dc to dc charger w/ solar input, installed ARB compressor with swivel fitting (have not finished wiring on ARB compressor), fixed passenger seat bolt threads and installed new seat bolt.
Replaced AC condenser, removed weed baggy my brother in law left in my Land Cruiser from AC fan after I told him not to smoke weed in my car while I let him borrow it, installed new Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws, put RTT back on the roof for camping season this fall.
What’s left to do?
Wire ARB compressor, install Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro 2” lift, install Ironman 4x4 diff drop kit, order and install solar panels (or at least have a quick disconnect wired up to use them), order and install fuse block, install Pure sine inverter after fuse block install.
Go camping.
It's not really that hard, just fiddly. Get yourself some butt connectors and crimpers, snip the wire, reconnect. There's not really a ton of slack, so it's probably easier to do what I did and just use an extension wire and 4 butt connectors instead of two. All that button does is complete a circuit (or interrupt one), so it's not exactly a super-electrical-technical thing.
One thing I did that I think made it easier- while pulling the wires up through the shifter lever, make sure the two white wires pull the black insulation/ covering with. Use tweezers to get that to pull out too if you need to. THAT WAY, when you go to push those wires back down through, its less like pushing rope and more like pushing a cable with some stiffness. I taped the white ends down with electrical tape at the end of the black insulation, and it went through pretty easy.
I'm having trouble in the last stretch though- it's all back in and working good, but I can't for the life of me get the shifter knob to properly seat back up where the button works as intended and the screws in front go back. Any pointers there from the crowd? Right now I have to do a little wigglin and fiddlin to get truck in gear or back into park.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Good to know. I am going to give that a try. Is it possible to relocate the wire break somewhere else? Pull wires down to the rear of the shift plate do the break there and then run them back up to OD?
There's not another spot to do it, really, since that's where the wires are accessible. You gotta get the OD cancel switch out to pull the knob off to put the plate on, and the best way to do that is to snip behind/ below shifter, pull all that out, then swap your parts, fish the wires back down through and reconnect.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
There's Will's video! Wow, I feel like an idiot. Haha, things are hard to find when they are in front of my face. Thanks, Broski!
