WDYD What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (7 Viewers)

What did you do....
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
142
Location
Washington
Got my aftermarket rear view camera working where the Teyes automatically shows it when shifting into reverse. Details about the install here: LX470 2004 | Need help with Android Screen - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx470-2004-need-help-with-android-screen.1277592/page-14#post-14517117

If you're wondering, I have a windshield sun shade on right now. Overall, pretty happy with how quickly it works and also the improved video quality over the OEM camera.

rear_view.jpg
 

TheForger

GOLD Star
Joined
Jan 4, 2014
Messages
2,935
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
Hauled 1,200lbs (25 bags) of paver sand for a patio. Decided not to get bulk delivered to the house because all the places around me have a 3yrd minimum + delivery fee which was a lot more than I needed. It really reaffirmed my need for a rear bumper though. With Iron Man springs and Tough Dog shocks, it rides soooo much better with weight in the back!

17EBAA27-1897-4D5D-BAD1-05A0BB6B2A9B.jpeg
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
965
Location
OC, CA
Got my aftermarket rear view camera working where the Teyes automatically shows it when shifting into reverse. Details about the install here: LX470 2004 | Need help with Android Screen - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx470-2004-need-help-with-android-screen.1277592/page-14#post-14517117

If you're wondering, I have a windshield sun shade on right now. Overall, pretty happy with how quickly it works and also the improved video quality over the OEM camera.

View attachment 3055761
Did you take off the white OEM clips from the OEM unit and put it on the new frame. If not it will cause that huge gap at the top.
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
39
Location
SoCal

Got my new UCA installed replacing the problematic Total Chaos UCA with SPC light racing edition UCA and finally got my imported long travel CV axels from Australia delivered and installed. No more blown boots and axels I am hoping. Was getting tired of the almost constant yearly replacement of CV and not being able to claim warranties on them since my rig is lifted and Toyota OEM and all the reman’s out there on market if reading their fine print for their warranty on parts states “warranty is voided if vehicle is lifted and or used on 4wd applications and in all cap in the legal fine print “WARRANTY VOIDED IF INSTALLED WITHAFTERMARKET SUSPENSION LIFT!”
Yes please… More details on the long travel CV axles please. That's the first I've heard of them.
 

crimsonaudio

2003 - Gojira
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
1,582
Location
West TN
Replaced my tired LX AHC springs with 05-07 LC AHC Springs (Purple and Brown labelled) + 30 mm spacers. Insulators were included in these 2 toyota P/Ns.
I removed the diff breather mount and a brake hard line + soft section out of an abundance of caution while dropping the rear diff.

Right side spring was easy. Without a second person, I got the left spring on with the help of a factory bottle jack sitting on the diff housing (next to the rear left crossmember). It was anchored against a rubber block on the frame in wheel well area to get the amount of clearance needed.

The @LandCruiserPhil factory bottle jack adapter comes in handy for seating the left spring in case the frame/diff is off-center if you're not working on perfectly even ground.
View attachment 3036257
View attachment 3036258
View attachment 3036259
Bro, the bottom of your truck looks new! I'm impressed.
 

YezusLX

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Messages
451
Location
ATL Shawty

UZJ100 ua

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 4, 2018
Messages
875
Location
Oregon
Just picked up my parts today. Any advice?
Pretty self explanatory. I ran the (+) wire along the drivers side frame rail and tucked it into the plastic tabs that would have held the AHC lines. Remember you'll want to use at least 12 gauge wiring per the instructions, butt connectors and ground connector. I removed my underneath spare tire carrier since I have a swing out so I just used the existing hole/bolt for a ground as shown in the pic.

Recommend using a circuit tester to make sure all your connections work and clean them as well as you can especially if you have corrosion/rust. I ended up using a little dielectric grease too.

Overall a 1 banana job with very minimal "wiring" needed. Just some crimping of heat shrink butt connectors.
 
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
142
Location
Washington
Did you take off the white OEM clips from the OEM unit and put it on the new frame. If not it will cause that huge gap at the top.

Was wondering how the top was supposed to snap in as it currently doesn't. Reusing the clips makes sense, will do this tomorrow!

Edit: Decided not to wait for tomorrow since it only takes a minute. Used two of the clips from the OEM unit and it looks much nicer now as there's no gap on top. Thanks for the tip!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
177
Location
California
Bro, the bottom of your truck looks new! I'm impressed.
The garage does wonders in regards to slowing the aging process of the truck. Or any car/truck for the matter. The garage prevents accelerated rubber/ FIPG gasket ageing under CA sun. The ARACO Japan built Mall Cruiser has 0 leaky OEM oil/fluid gaskets to date and they all still seal perfectly after 23 years

I’ve got a beater 2nd gen FWD Sienna sitting on the driveway all life, looking probably 10 years older than the “00 LX when the Princeton built Sienna’s 5 years younger with leaky seals.

While CA sun vs garage matters, I think a Japanese built automobile’s really hard to beat on quality control that holds up well under extended use even though America built Yotas are still great.
 
Last edited:

Beto Cruiser

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 15, 2019
Messages
349
Location
Houston, TX
Replaced my timing belt this past week. Following @OTRAMM ‘s YouTube tutorials almost made it easy.

Two tips for future DIYers.
1. Going 50 degrees past TDC per the instructions for a 2002 added a lot of stress. The cams jerked a few degrees once the belt was off. I panicked thinking I botched it. Turns out it’s easily recoverable though. Next time I’ll try removing at TDC instead of 50 degrees past it.
2. Those fan clutch nuts are a PITA. Only tool I had that worked to keep the thing from spinning was one of those HF ball joint separator forks.
 

Beto Cruiser

Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 15, 2019
Messages
349
Location
Houston, TX
10-4 thank you. Yes I got everything removed all the way down to and including the nut that holds the wheel on....and yanked. And yanked. And yanked...no joy. Figured I was missing some sort of ring clip or something. Put it back together for the moment. Fishing trip tmrw got cancelled, so looks like I'll be sewing instead.
Like sauce box said, keep the nut loosely on for sure.
It also helps to push, not just pull. Yank-push-yank-push. It’ll give eventually. Removed mine a few times, never needed a proper puller (although I’m sure that would make life much easier).
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
135
Location
SoCal
I flushed my power steering. Look at the crap that came out of my reservoir. Feels like only a matter of time before I need a new pump!
D40DD158-F683-49A8-BBB1-F3357B24ED86.jpeg
 

OwnerCS

GOLD Star
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Messages
2,240
Location
USA
I flushed my power steering. Look at the crap that came out of my reservoir. Feels like only a matter of time before I need a new pump!View attachment 3056849
I suffered that in a bad way last summer starting in early August. My problems started with an aftermarket reservoir and cap that would not properly seal. So without an airtight seal, dirt and mud were sucked up into the reservoir. The clogged reservoir and particulate caused the pump to fail. Then it turned into multiple system flushes and another damaged pump until I could get the system cleared up. Make sure your cap seal o-ring is tight. I use a fluid extractor like MitiVac to keep an eye on fluid quality since then.
 
Joined
Mar 25, 2020
Messages
115
Location
Upstate SC
Had to order a battery. It drove just fine on Sunday, and Dead as a door nail Monday morning. No lights were left on, as far as I could tell. It was also a cheap matter and the wrong group size. Ordered a 27F Optima Yellow today. I’ll have to look for a voltage leak this week.
 

GTV

Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
1,364
Location
Where Crosstreks aren’t
The only problems I’ve had with this truck was with the AHC right when I picked it up in Michigan and the booster pump in Yellowstone on my way back home to Washington. It’s been flawless for nearly 30k miles and almost exactly two years until last Wednesday when I got near Yellowstone again. At the exact same time I find the LR caliper was sticking and the fuel pump starting to go out. Fingers crossed I’ll get to Michigan without further incident.
98E021BB-73C4-44D1-BA40-2B9C2BEF7DFB.jpeg
26C88A9F-7EA1-4111-92DE-B8F68AF08245.jpeg
3744ED92-B887-44B7-92EC-F6712A916158.jpeg
BE656E66-4D7C-4770-88A4-60FBEE9ECE64.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
135
Location
SoCal
Another long day of wrenching on the War Wagon. I’m really looking forward to taking it on an adventure instead of working on it.

Yesterday I changed the radiator and coolant and flushed the brake fluid. The radiator was original and lasted 17 years and 252k miles before it started to leak. Despite all common sense, I couldn’t bear the price of an OEM radiator (now seems to be made in Mexico), so I ordered a Denso (made in Taiwan) from Rockauto. I also swapped the upper and lower radiator hoses and the thermostat with OEM Toyota.

5EF44980-87FD-426C-9A68-72C6075D831B.jpeg


34C1E0F6-B09A-4FC8-8056-D308D0BE673A.jpeg


The brake fluid was of unknown age and a pretty nasty dark green. I replaced it with Toyota DOT 3. I had no way to actuate the ABS in my garage, so I tried the slam on the brakes in a gravel parking lot method. I think it worked. The fluid came out a bit green during the second bleeding after being pure clear before.
 

crimsonaudio

2003 - Gojira
SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
1,582
Location
West TN
The garage does wonders in regards to slowing the aging process of the truck. Or any car/truck for the matter. The garage prevents accelerated rubber/ FIPG gasket ageing under CA sun. The ARACO Japan built Mall Cruiser has 0 leaky OEM oil/fluid gaskets to date and they all still seal perfectly after 23 years

I’ve got a beater 2nd gen FWD Sienna sitting on the driveway all life, looking probably 10 years older than the “00 LX when the Princeton built Sienna’s 5 years younger with leaky seals.

While CA sun vs garage matters, I think a Japanese built automobile’s really hard to beat on quality control that holds up well under extended use even though America built Yotas are still great.
The CA climate has a lot to do with it as well.

Either way, love how clean it is. Congrats!
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2019
Messages
288
Location
Utah
Finally got the steering rack out! My lower bolt just below the steering shaft u-joint came out east enough, but a couple hours of pulling, hammering, digging farther into the timing belt/ water pump stuff, and I couldn’t get it to release. Re-read the steering rack thread and saw someone had pulled it out with the shaft attached…out in 5 minutes…this would have been ZERO fun without pulling out all the other stuff I already did (shroud, fan, radiator, pulleys, etc). Now, to degrease… Also, one big question; I measured the inner tie rods as it came out, centered, but the ds one is 11” out from the boot band, and the ps one is 10”.(?) any ideas?

F87BED5E-2EE8-4E70-B220-14F3F4A8B50B.jpeg


7B5C9A3A-FC18-4372-BE1E-BA94AD24DBE4.jpeg


1F41B762-5BE9-4A28-8978-D9D1DC47033E.jpeg


7528212A-D82B-43DD-876F-D6C880B54AE9.jpeg


8E287E2E-7FC8-4734-9669-30FAE5461D60.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom