Looking at the frame and wondering what the PO was trying to accomplish. Any theories and should I be worried? Both sides are similar and the weld, although ugly, looks pretty complete.
What had happened was... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ATLTJ
- Start date
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The VIN gone??? Is it under the shackle reversal kit?
- Thread starter
- #3
It is over the reversal kit, I will upload a better picture
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
I see some issues that need to be addressed before you start to develop cracks in your frame.
The area above the OEM round hole needs to be rebuilt. I would back it with a piece of steel, weld it up and grind it pretty. I would grind everything else smooth and weld back any torch cuts and depressions. If the shackle reversal kit was installed per instructions, it IS covering a portion of the VIN.
If you are careful, it can be rescued. And sometimes a crappy weld can be your friend. Even with a good weld, you can save the VIN. This is one I recently rescued.
I used a cut-off disk to cut the top, bottom and front welds, then peeled the plate back and broke the weld. This ensured I didn't grind through the VIN by trying to grind my way through the plate. Once I could see what I had left I slowly worked my way down through the remaining weld. When I got really close I use Emery cloth to bring out the details. If I would have just started grinding the weld on the back edge I could have easily lost the "1" at the very edge of the weld bead. I was able to get all nine characters legible enough to verify the VIN.
The area above the OEM round hole needs to be rebuilt. I would back it with a piece of steel, weld it up and grind it pretty. I would grind everything else smooth and weld back any torch cuts and depressions. If the shackle reversal kit was installed per instructions, it IS covering a portion of the VIN.
If you are careful, it can be rescued. And sometimes a crappy weld can be your friend. Even with a good weld, you can save the VIN. This is one I recently rescued.
I used a cut-off disk to cut the top, bottom and front welds, then peeled the plate back and broke the weld. This ensured I didn't grind through the VIN by trying to grind my way through the plate. Once I could see what I had left I slowly worked my way down through the remaining weld. When I got really close I use Emery cloth to bring out the details. If I would have just started grinding the weld on the back edge I could have easily lost the "1" at the very edge of the weld bead. I was able to get all nine characters legible enough to verify the VIN.
