If you really feel like you're sitting on a ticking time bomb then change the gasket. That said, I'm going to guess that 9 out of 10 fzj80s are running around on the original gasket.
What first? Bumpers/winch or Headgasket as PM (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scrowley
- Start date
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Fwiw, I have sliders and winch in stock bumper. If you just need a winch just drop it into the stock bumper and do the gasket.
Mark W
Yep, it's true. I just don't care that much.
Spend the money for real bumper.
First.
Even a totally inconsequential parking lot mishap can easily cost you more in damage repairs than the cost of a heavy duty aftermarket bumper.
Once you step away from the I hate mud 80's forum, head gasket failures are a lot less common than it might seen while you are surfing here.
Minor accidents in street driven station wagons are more so.
Mark...
First.
Even a totally inconsequential parking lot mishap can easily cost you more in damage repairs than the cost of a heavy duty aftermarket bumper.
Once you step away from the I hate mud 80's forum, head gasket failures are a lot less common than it might seen while you are surfing here.
Minor accidents in street driven station wagons are more so.
Mark...
I guess as far as you need to. Loosen the radiator cap so the exhaust doesn't pressurize the coolant system. keep the radiator topped off. Maybe dump a bunch of aluma seal in until you can get within AAA range. It would be a bummer to warp the head and have to replace that also. As to the original question of the thread, front bumpers are pretty important. When I replaced my front bumper I took the opportunity to repair the body damage behind the paper thin mangled stock bumper. Some photos in my rotw link in my sig.
I think you're on the right track. Do the test first. The results should make your decision very easy.
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks for all the reply's. I like to worry about stuff I guess. I like fixing things as much as I like using them. Then when they are mint I am usually bored and sell. LOL. WELL I ordered an ARB deluxe front bumper from autoanything for $900 shipped, and a ENGO 12k winch from IPOR for $373 shipped. I couldnt wait for the HG results.....haha... I did reviece my blackstone kit today so I will prob. take care of that this weekend and wait for the results. None of the local autoparts places had the HG test kit. Autozone does stock it but is out until next weds. Oh well. So if my results are fine I will be at piece BUT if not I will be completeing the HG job soon. So heres my new one.......IF the HG is good I will be ordering a 4x4 labs rear bumper kit... 
atta boy! go for armour and winch!
Sliders for $200?
Yep, Trail Gear... They're 1.75'' DOM...
http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-armor
I think they are the 67'' ones... $189...Can't beat that with a stick!
http://www.trail-gear.com/trail-armor
I think they are the 67'' ones... $189...Can't beat that with a stick!
How'd you mount those trail gear sliders around the cats? Any pics? Looks like a good deal.
- Thread starter
- #31
Check out my link in signature below...$200 for marlin crawler tacoma sliders. HREW tubing. The pics on Marlins site are of my truck when I did the install. I was amped they contacted me to post the pics of my install on their site. Mostly to show that they fit well on an 80 with some time working the outriggers . I have since added an extra bar length wise covering the cat. Photobucket is not working now so I cant add a pic.
You can drive it safely until it starts to heat up, then shut down, cool, refill, repeat. How far and how long depends on how it fails. If you have rapid coolant loss and/or a hydro lock, usability is limited. Otherwise, they can sometimes be driven for days or weeks with proper precautions.
To put it another way, unless overheated, hgs usually deteriorate rather than fail suddenly. By the time a diagnosis is made you may have been driving on it for weeks or even months. I've blown seven hgs in my lifetime, I've always been able to make it home.
- Thread starter
- #33
That is good to know. thanks. I guess that is why so many ppl have a scangauge to monitor. I know my uncle made an in dash led that would turn on when coolant temp reached a above avg. temp. Maybe I will look at doing this as the scangauge you actually have to watch the whole time and if not paying attention could be too late. I am feeling better about the whole HG delemia I was having.
A scangauge is a good idea but be prepared for gauge paranoia. The in dash gauge has a dead spot that covers normal running temps. In reality, temps fluctuate constantly. Seeing the real temps can freak you out.
IIRC, an Ultragauge has an alarm you can set when your coolant reaches a certain temp. Another plus is that it's cheaper than a Scangaue.
- Thread starter
- #36
Well I went to autozone to check out the scangauge2....I was asking about it like they would know and decided to walk out and one of the employees must have overheard me asking about it and as he follows me out says "I need to sell mine...I just bought it but doesnt work good on my turbo subaru..." So I'm like how much $? $40 !!!!!!!!!!!! I met him down the road and gave hime $50 cause I was about to pay 160 plus tax. Works great. Perfect timing. Would be nice if it had and alarm for the coolant though. I can see looking at it too much...Also I dont like how bright the screen is. Might try to tint it.
Changing the screen color might make it a little dimmer.
duggy
SILVER Star
$40! wow!
To answer the original question...don't replace the HG until it goes.
In the meantime, make sure you are not leaking oil and that your coolant system is working properly. It seems that a lot of older vehicles you see on the side of the road are there because basic PM is not taken care of, like flushing the coolant system, using the OEM spec coolant fluid, replacing dried/rotten coolant lines, too long interval between oil changes, using poor quality oil, bad belts, etc. I think that there's a lot you can do with this type of PM to ensure your HG does not blow.
I had a bunch of oil leaks, and I addressed those. Now I don't burn through oil like I used to and I'm sure my engine is running better, which means more consistent pressure in the engine, lower average operating temps, and less stress on the seals. That's going to help reduce the chances the HG will blow for sure.
I've found over the years that whatever real problem needs to be addressed next tends to have a way of showing itself in a fashion that allows me to address it before it becomes a major issue/breakdown.
Enjoy your new armor!
In the meantime, make sure you are not leaking oil and that your coolant system is working properly. It seems that a lot of older vehicles you see on the side of the road are there because basic PM is not taken care of, like flushing the coolant system, using the OEM spec coolant fluid, replacing dried/rotten coolant lines, too long interval between oil changes, using poor quality oil, bad belts, etc. I think that there's a lot you can do with this type of PM to ensure your HG does not blow.
I had a bunch of oil leaks, and I addressed those. Now I don't burn through oil like I used to and I'm sure my engine is running better, which means more consistent pressure in the engine, lower average operating temps, and less stress on the seals. That's going to help reduce the chances the HG will blow for sure.
I've found over the years that whatever real problem needs to be addressed next tends to have a way of showing itself in a fashion that allows me to address it before it becomes a major issue/breakdown.
Enjoy your new armor!
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the confidence in my HG. I def. agree on the PM. It took me about a yr. to do all the pm items. I am also a fanatic about fixing anything that brakes right away. My truck is a hobby for sure and I enjoy wrenching/fabbing on my free time. Cant wait for the ARB. Comes tomorrow! I will post pics.
