I've got a 1980 FJ40 with a factory engine/drivetrain. I run 33's, and I just don't have enough power to maintain highway speed up hills(even small ones). I'm looking for recommendations how to gain a little power with more or less bolt on parts. What do you think? Holley 350, Weber carb, headers,......? Let me know what has worked well. I don't want to put lower gears in and lose top end speed.
What do you think? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter highgravity
- Start date
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What is the condition of your engine?
What are your compression numbers?
When was the last time you adjusted the valves?
When was the last time you did a simple tune up?
Post up the compression #'s
All the ' bolt-on power enhancement goodies' in the world cannot compensate for poor engine condition/maintenance/compression...
Good luck!
-Steve
What are your compression numbers?
When was the last time you adjusted the valves?
When was the last time you did a simple tune up?
Post up the compression #'s
All the ' bolt-on power enhancement goodies' in the world cannot compensate for poor engine condition/maintenance/compression...
Good luck!
-Steve
Dont listen to him
you want bolt on power
CHROME
you want bolt on power
CHROME
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi All:
I will defer to Steve's opinion, but I wonder how much of his problem is the 3.7 ratio axle gears with 33s? Perhaps swapping in a set of 4.1 ratio ring & pinion gears would get the rig back into the engine's powerband?
Also, have you tuned up the engine recently? Quality Japanese parts or generic aftermarket? Clean air filter??
Good luck!
Alan
Seattle
I will defer to Steve's opinion, but I wonder how much of his problem is the 3.7 ratio axle gears with 33s? Perhaps swapping in a set of 4.1 ratio ring & pinion gears would get the rig back into the engine's powerband?
Also, have you tuned up the engine recently? Quality Japanese parts or generic aftermarket? Clean air filter??
Good luck!
Alan
Seattle
Bwahahacamcruiser13 said:
Yeah, once you get those things straight...
Weber 3838 with a high voltage ignition system pushed mine around on 35's without too much probs. It was an F with 4.11s though.
I'd imagine that a header would have helped even more.
I agree with the gear ratio problem. I have a 40 with 33's running 3:73 gears and it is terrible on hills, yet a friend of mine has 33's running 4:10 gears and he has no problems. A good running engine and proper gearing is the key.
Josie'sLandCruiser said:
4.1's and 33's, with stock motor is very pleasant to drive
- Thread starter
- #11
Alright,
Sorry, here's a little more detail. I did a compression test a few months ago, and the numbers were between 128-145psi if I remember right. I just moved, so I'll have to dig through some boxes to find the exact numbers. I spoke to a trusted mechanic at the time and he didn't seem to think it was an issue. I've changed the air filter, plugs, and wires recently. That's as far as I have been with a tune up. I need to learn how to adjust the timing.
The cruiser only has about 65,000 miles on it. I've owned it in central NC for about 8 years. It came from colorado before. The previous owner used it to get to work when it snowed. I got a steal on it. I've put about 20,000 miles on it.
Maybe you guys are right about the gears, for some reason I was under the impression I had 4.11's. By changing to 4.11's is it possible to cruise at 70-75 at a reasonable rpm?
Finally, the hills I am speaking of are the rolling hills of central NC, nothing steep. Probably a 2 or 3 percent grade at max. However, I would like to have it capable of driving into the mountains.
Thanks for all the responses.
Sorry, here's a little more detail. I did a compression test a few months ago, and the numbers were between 128-145psi if I remember right. I just moved, so I'll have to dig through some boxes to find the exact numbers. I spoke to a trusted mechanic at the time and he didn't seem to think it was an issue. I've changed the air filter, plugs, and wires recently. That's as far as I have been with a tune up. I need to learn how to adjust the timing.
The cruiser only has about 65,000 miles on it. I've owned it in central NC for about 8 years. It came from colorado before. The previous owner used it to get to work when it snowed. I got a steal on it. I've put about 20,000 miles on it.
Maybe you guys are right about the gears, for some reason I was under the impression I had 4.11's. By changing to 4.11's is it possible to cruise at 70-75 at a reasonable rpm?
Finally, the hills I am speaking of are the rolling hills of central NC, nothing steep. Probably a 2 or 3 percent grade at max. However, I would like to have it capable of driving into the mountains.
Thanks for all the responses.
i think that 79 and up had 3.73's? correct me if im wrong....
1979 had 4:11s, at least my BJ does.
You may need to look at your carb if your truck came from Colorado. Jetting is quite different at 5280 - 12000 feet.
Good luck
You may need to look at your carb if your truck came from Colorado. Jetting is quite different at 5280 - 12000 feet.
Good luck
I hope he has it resolved by now. The post before yours was 19 months old!
My 2/79 fj40 came from the factory with 3.73 gears.
Welcome to Mud. How about a pic of that BJ?
Agree with most but here it is plainly.
1) learn to adjust timing. HUGE power robber if it's retarded which happens over time anyway since you'll never perfectly keep your distributor in place.
2) Best bolt-ons I have found so far are HEI dizzy and headers. Wow.. major seat of the pants upgrades in my case at least. That was of course AFTER rebuilding the top end (valves and seats, etc.) and all new plugs, blah, blah, blah.
Just got a weber 38 which I will be adding to the mix in a month or so after I finish putting my rig back together. I'm in the middle of p/s upgrade, air conditioning add on, full interior/exterior refurbish and repaint, door latching upgrades, etc. I'll let you know how the weber 38 helped after it's back to screaming.
ROTFL!!!
Just noticed the original thread is over a year old. Wow.
1) learn to adjust timing. HUGE power robber if it's retarded which happens over time anyway since you'll never perfectly keep your distributor in place.
2) Best bolt-ons I have found so far are HEI dizzy and headers. Wow.. major seat of the pants upgrades in my case at least. That was of course AFTER rebuilding the top end (valves and seats, etc.) and all new plugs, blah, blah, blah.
Just got a weber 38 which I will be adding to the mix in a month or so after I finish putting my rig back together. I'm in the middle of p/s upgrade, air conditioning add on, full interior/exterior refurbish and repaint, door latching upgrades, etc. I'll let you know how the weber 38 helped after it's back to screaming.
ROTFL!!!
Just noticed the original thread is over a year old. Wow.
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first change the distribuitor for the chevy HEI in cap.... with this you win beter spark , know if change the coil for de 55.000v is to much beter...
or change injection for the TBI ....
with this you won power and the engine is more economics
or change injection for the TBI ....
with this you won power and the engine is more economics
19 months... I guess I'll have to pay attention to that. I have not messed with pictures yet, so here we go.
March 26th 2007, my parents flat tow my BJ40 to Denver from Costa Rica behind his 2006 HJZ78. It looks great and runs great.
A few days later after a snow storm the paint literally starts to fall off.
I drove it during the summer and built a shop.
October 10th 2007 restoration begins....
March 26th 2007, my parents flat tow my BJ40 to Denver from Costa Rica behind his 2006 HJZ78. It looks great and runs great.
A few days later after a snow storm the paint literally starts to fall off.
I drove it during the summer and built a shop.
October 10th 2007 restoration begins....
Nice rig, but I am more interested in the HJZ78. Did your parents title it in the US? Was it bought in CR?
It's a CR vehicle. They live there part of the year. They drive it back and forth to Vancouver BC where they live the rest of the year. This was an early picture. It now has an ARB bumper with a 15K pound winch and an ARB roof rack.
