What do you know about wheel spacers

Can't advise specifically on your setup, but I have spacer/adapters on my rig. The bolt on type that have studs to mount the wheels. High quality units that came from Alan at www.rockbuggysupply.com. These are made specifically for Cruiser and WILL fit over the hubs, unlike the Chevy items with the same bolt circle. Price was good, service is TOPS!

All Pro offroad also sells a similar product..............

 

There are two kinds of wheel spacers that I know about. The most common are the kind you can get at any autoparts store. They're a circle of aluminum that has your bolt pattern drilled in them, they come in various thicknesses from 1/8" to 1/2". the problem is your lugnuts may not have enough stud to snug down on. The stud should have at least two rows of threads showing after the thing is torqued. Therefore, you may need to replace your studs with longer ones to be safe. The toyo bolt pattern is the same as a 6 lug Chevy.
The second kind is a machined piece of steel that bolts on in place of the wheel and has its own set of lugs to bolt the wheel onto. I've seen these up to 3" wide. They are pricey.
MY answer to your stability is GO SLOW.
GL

 

I've been running 1" spacers in the back now for ~14,000miles and no complaints here. The kind I got were from performance wheel and bolt to your existing wheel studs with new studs offset to bolt up your wheel. They were 50 bucks a pop not that bad, but best deal I could find. All-Pro is way more. Just make sure you lock tite em and recheck torque every once in a while. :G

 

As others have mentioned there is the "spacer ring" which can bring up a world of hurt with your stud length, and there are the spacers which bolt on, using the existing studs, and have their own studs which you then use. Much safer; in my opinion the only way to go. The question for me is steel or billet aluminum. To my knowledge there are very few bolt on spacers that are made of steel. What are the cons of aluminum, other then the known bi-metal reaction. Are there any strenght issues with the billet high grade amuminum spacers?

gb

 

The disadvantages of aluminum are pretty universal, obviously softer than steel and easily gouged, yet MUCH lighter and corrosion resistant if the proper steps are taken. I have some 1/4 inch spacers up front and have had 0 problems in 8 years of use. I will be running 1.5 inch spacers in the rear and I will give an update on how they perform.

 

A 1/4 inch spacer is used to gain brake or wheelwell clearance more than anything, a 1/2 inch or larger is for more of a stability increase.

 

why would you use larger spacers in the back? i would think i would want everything to be the same and i would add the same size spacers in the front.

 

Couple o' reasons, on my 62 the rear axel is actually shorter than the front (same on minis). And two, the rear wheel fender wells are no where near as wide as the front, this is a problem with the 40s also. It is very common to see the inside of these fender wells scuffed up from continous tire contact upon compression. Not a major issue but it helps eliminate that rubbing noise and increases tire life. Even with my 1" spacers in the back, my 35s still tuck up neatly inside the wheel well, with little rubbing.

 

I'm running 1.5" spacers all the way around on my SOA cruzah... MC Motorsports ones.. they are good, just be sure to keep the inner lugs tight!

 

My reason is scrub radius and fender clearance.

If you dont understand scrub radius, here is a quick rundown.

It is how far the center of your wheel is from the turning point on your knuckle (I believe this is correct) the farther out you get, the more your tire actually moves forward and backwards while turning left to right, it is also harder on steering components.

I am going with rear spacers until I get hydro assist.