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@clrussell what diff’s are you running…. With my 2F and swapping the 3.70’s differentials I have about a 20% drop in rpm along with the 31” KO2 tires
4.11 gear. 35” tires.
5.3 LS engine. 4 speed trans
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@clrussell what diff’s are you running…. With my 2F and swapping the 3.70’s differentials I have about a 20% drop in rpm along with the 31” KO2 tires
I thought about washers. It seems more like a bandaid. However with the planned front suspension changes maybe that’s the best solution.You can install large washers to fill the gap or find bushings with wider shoulders.
I shortened my shackles a little to help get a better castor angle. It helped a little bit. I eventually installed 6* shims. I run 4" skyjackers and have about +3* castor. Keep in mind longer shackles are required for lift springs. You need to allow the spring to flatten out.
There's nothing wrong with spacers. What's you castor angle?
Is that an actual "problem" though?Also need to figure out how to fix this problem. This is the frame side mount for the leaf spring. You’ll notice the 1/4” gap between bushing and frame.
First world problemIs that an actual "problem" though?
In town or highway?Still driving it 6 days a week. Got 11.3 mpg last
Mostly town.In town or highway?
I haven’t measured mine in a while, but I was getting 17mpg highway with a very similar setup. Realistically though, 11 in town might be deal. It’s a lot of weight to stop and go constantly.Mostly town.
Some highway small trips.
I haven’t measured mine in a while, but I was getting 17mpg highway with a very similar setup. Realistically though, 11 in town might be deal. It’s a lot of weight to stop and go constantly.
I took the easy way out with mine last year before replacing with those ProCar seats… I just dropped a 1 1/2” steel square tube under the two rear mounts between the floor and the seat mount…, a 30 minute job if your drilling the thru holes and search for a much longer bolt….that was a very nice difference in seat angle and visibility
That’s wild, I actually had to read your first post about it twice.With the old seats I had discovered that the driving position had placed most of the weight, FOR 50 YEARS, into the recess of the seat bottom and causing it to sink and tilt back a bit when I would drive it. That little lift I used before in all of my trucks over the last 25 years or so. Wither a stack of washers, a piece of pipe or that square tube block. It was lifted forward enough to make it comfortable. If you do feel the need to change…it’s a quick one. Just need the bolt
That’s wild, I actually had to read your first post about it twice.
I would never dream of raising the back of the seat up, I raise the front up, or the whole thing up, to get away from the floor, to get support under my knees if possible.
I don’t like leaning back, I just want my butt down and the front of the seat up.
I’ve just never heard of anyone raising the rear.
But I might be the strange one, who knows.
BMW 12 way electric heated seats for the win.Rai
Having the front of the seat raised a touch is my preference as well. I like the thigh support. Without having gangster lean.
My current seating position is really good actually. I would prefer to just move it back 1” and down 1/2” front and rear.
But also want seats that are a little more comfortable and adjustable. The 70s 40 seats slide and that’s it.