What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (45 Viewers)

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I followed some of the power steering threads and tried one of the diagnostic tips suggested by a user...

Commenter: "...take off the reservoir cap while the engine is running and check for fluid flow."
OP Responds: "The fluid is bubbling. Not like air bubbles. Just fluid bubbling."
Commenter: "It sounds like your pump has taken a dump."

What was not made clear is that if your pump is (presumably) working properly, there will be an 8" smooth-walled column of fluid ejected from the reservoir and evenly distributed over your entire engine bay as a result of your momentary hesitation holding the cap directly over said column of fluid.

So now I need to know what is a good cleaning agent to spray this crap off...😕

edit - and to those who saw what was coming before even finishing reading...kindly keep it to yourself. lol 🤣

A properly bled and functioning power steering system should not puke fluid like that with the engine running. You should be able to look down into the reservoir and see the fluid churning and flowing, but there should be no geysers.
 
Guess the 37s wont be going on tomorrow... The chef at the restaurant tried to put it out, said sparks were falling from under the hood. The battery was completely melted. I have no idea what happened. We were parked at the back of the restaurant, the fire department was cutting the hood open while my wife and I ate cheesecake. The manager came and asked who drove a white fj80, thought I was going to get another compliment as I do at most places... No idea the extent of damage as of now, will tow it to my shop tomorrow and check it out.

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May have been a dead high-current short. Stuck starter contacts are one thing that could cause it. I'm afraid it's a total loss. 😢
 
Pop the caps off the top of the wiper see if tightening the nut works, mine use to loosen up then not allow the wiper to work
Yeah I did that - thanks - will have to tear into it when I get back home from sub zero!
 
First contribution to this thread - changed out fusible links and installed new battery (Napa Legend Premium 24F)

Old battery would often fall to 12.2-12.4V overnight. Before I removed it (it was down to 12.2V), I removed the negative terminal and connected my multimeter in series with the negative terminal and negative battery post and only saw 0.02A (20 mA) which ruled out parasitic draw. Napa tested it with handheld and under load and it came back between ok-good both times! That was confusing but I decided to change it out since it had continued dropping even after removal and just for fun we popped it open and saw that two cells were slightly corroded and low on water.

The 24F leaves a lot more room than the 27 in the box:
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Even made a slight 'mod' to the cover so it fits my maintainer lead which I may leave on permanently - 2 banana job.
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It did still take about 4-5 attempts before it started. Then another 2 attempts to start it again which I still haven't figured out...but voltage barely dropped while starting, was steady 14.6V while running, and didn't drop below 12.6V afterwards unlike the one I replaced. Will check again tomorrow.

Starter is next on the list, hope that helps some. But also will be doing new wires, main wire to distributor has popped off before.
 
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Started some of the body repairs. Used POR15 to fix the rear lift gate rust areas. Still looking fir a good, complete front axle kit. Any suggestions?
 
Cruised up to the San Juan with a buddy in another Cummins-swapped 80, caught a bunch of fish in a snowstorm, witnessed his unconventional 3-man raft loading and transport methodology, caught an incredible sunset, did some camping. Great success!
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Rear brakes.
@ToyotaDon is asking because the rear rotor comes off independent of the rear hub - as in it should simply slide off over the hub and lug studs once the wheel is removed. In your pic, the rotor appears to be stuck to the rear hub.

This misunderstanding was my second guess. @incogrhino The rear brakes on the FZJ80 full-floater do not require hub & bearing removal to get the rotor off. As long as they are not too rusted, you should be able to slide the rotor off, leaving the hub in place. Now that you're there, you'll probably want to see whether the rotors should be replaced, and you can go ahead and pack/replace the bearings too.
 
A properly bled and functioning power steering system should not puke fluid like that with the engine running. You should be able to look down into the reservoir and see the fluid churning and flowing, but there should be no geysers.

AHH! Good to know. So now...what would be the most likely cause of the geyser??
 
This misunderstanding was my second guess. @incogrhino The rear brakes on the FZJ80 full-floater do not require hub & bearing removal to get the rotor off. As long as they are not too rusted, you should be able to slide the rotor off, leaving the hub in place. Now that you're there, you'll probably want to see whether the rotors should be replaced, and you can go ahead and pack/replace the bearings too.

It may be necessary to back-off the parking brake shoes prior to removing the rotor.
 

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