That’s the price if you don’t turn a single wrench yourself.
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend?
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if you've got a Land Cruiser and some loved ones to enjoy it with - you are rich no matter the motor under the hood.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
It finally warmed up enough this past weekend to get a little time in the shop.
Got @PIP 's window rocket installed. The difference is night and day... and the sunroof actually opens quickly now.
Also installed @EPIC Cruisers oil catch can kit for my wife's non-supercharged 80.
Recommend both kits and sellers highly. Great products (and no affiliation).
Got @PIP 's window rocket installed. The difference is night and day... and the sunroof actually opens quickly now.
Also installed @EPIC Cruisers oil catch can kit for my wife's non-supercharged 80.
Recommend both kits and sellers highly. Great products (and no affiliation).
Completed a tune up. I've only owned my 80 for a few months and have only put about 1k miles on it. It had a very slight misfire at idle once warmed up, and the seller had claimed it had a recent tune up. The air filter + plug wires looked very recent, though the wires were obviously not Toyota, so I knew I was taking a gamble on the purchase but everything else looked good. The misfire got noticeably bit worse about 50 miles ago so I made time Friday afternoon to tackle it, expecting to find a faulty ignition coil or something.
After getting into it on Friday, either the seller got taken advantage of by a mechanic or she fibbed to me. Plugs were definitely recent and a nice tan color, wires were definitely recent O'reillys house brand. Dizzy Cap was Denso and looked recent from the outside, but the contacts on the cap and rotor both were in rough shape. Additionally, the coil to cap lead was not capable of being fully seated/clipped in. PCV valve and it's grommet was caked in oil.
After replacing everything w/ OEM stuff, she idles like a Toyota I6 should! Since the misfire was the last thing I wanted to tackle before driving it any sort of distance, I took the family for a little drive yesterday. We went about an hour from home and let our toddler explore the forest a bit. She saw some wild turkeys, found some vertebrae from either an elk or cow, and got real mad when mom wouldn't let her play in mud puddles.
After getting into it on Friday, either the seller got taken advantage of by a mechanic or she fibbed to me. Plugs were definitely recent and a nice tan color, wires were definitely recent O'reillys house brand. Dizzy Cap was Denso and looked recent from the outside, but the contacts on the cap and rotor both were in rough shape. Additionally, the coil to cap lead was not capable of being fully seated/clipped in. PCV valve and it's grommet was caked in oil.
After replacing everything w/ OEM stuff, she idles like a Toyota I6 should! Since the misfire was the last thing I wanted to tackle before driving it any sort of distance, I took the family for a little drive yesterday. We went about an hour from home and let our toddler explore the forest a bit. She saw some wild turkeys, found some vertebrae from either an elk or cow, and got real mad when mom wouldn't let her play in mud puddles.
It is tough to avoid the rain in the PNW
I’ve started a rear sub replacement. I had a tote full of different sound deadeners waiting for the right time to be used. The tote contained: second skin butyl mat, some Hushmat silver butyl mat, some leftover roll of closed cell foam from the “sound deadener showdown” days, some noico closed cell foam, and some vevor 2-in-1 butyl/Mlv sheets. I decided to apply to the rear quarter panels and rear floor for the sub project. The carpet went back in but it was a tighter fit.
Next phase will be to work on the wiring, sub, and amp.
www.secondskinaudio.com
hushmat.com
Next phase will be to work on the wiring, sub, and amp.
Damplifier Pro™ Sound Deadening Mat
Second Skin Damplifer Pro butyl rubber mats for car sound deadening are Second Skin Audio's industry leading sound deadening mat.
www.secondskinaudio.com
Automotive Applications
Use the Year, Make and Model search to find the HushMat products that fit your Car, SUV, Truck, Van or Heavy Semi-Truck, or select from the universal fitment products below.
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hisandhers80s
SILVER Star
While I had the upper and lower oil pans off, I got the rear main seal pulled out last night. I had heard it was difficult to get the flange off the rear of the crankshaft, but that was more difficult than I had anticipated. I also got the rotten rear heater lines removed from the firewall and cut them where they head over the frame over the exhaust.
Oh happy belated presidents' day yall.
How hard is it to replace the seal on the pinion for the front diff? I've got a leak there, and it's my only leak. I want to take care of it, before I do the turbo install, but haven't dug into the front diff before.
I need some encouragement... LOL
I need some encouragement... LOL
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
It's pretty easy. I replaced mine before a 6k mile road trip. I ugga duggad the pinion nut off, replaced the seal, ugga duggad the pinion nut back on, went slightly passed the old stake, re staked it. Drove across the country.
YOU GOT IT!
Thanks! I’m gonna do it.
Perfect!! I’ve been searching here on mud … I didn’t even think to look on YT. Duh
Do I need to do anything to the breather?
I read on here that a clogged breather can cause the pinion seal to fail.
I read on here that a clogged breather can cause the pinion seal to fail.
Ya, make sure it's not clogged it can blow the axle seals too.
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
Blow on it like an old N64 game.
- Joined
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Naw, you haven't driven our Tubos yet.... And longevity wins here. Let the debate begin
View attachment 4086108
Yup driven both.
Also bought a 2001 Chevy 2500HD new for work. Put 300k working miles on it in 15yrs and it was just fine.
Cheers
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 184
- Messages
- 13,140
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
I’ll jump in on the LS vs Turbo debate. Both are great options for the purpose of increasing the drive ability of the 80 series. This is fact, no debate there.
Please take into consideration I have done both at the professional level.
In an OEM to OEM application I think the LS has an edge in reliability (talking purely about motor here) but we aren’t talking about OEM applications here so that reliability argument is not necessarily true.
There are cons and pros to both options and I think the biggest curveball in the whole thing is installation.
Installation/reliability:
I would argue that for the most that the turbos come more reliable out of the box because 99% of the system is still oem Toyota and as long as the engine and cooling system are healthy - which most individuals going turbo have already addressed at some point, especially if the head gasket has been replaced with the newest iteration. Most individuals (generalization here, definitely not everyone) doing an LS swap into their 80 are likely first timers watching YouTube videos or browsing the forums to finish. They cut corners (mostly by accident, just first time ignorance most of the time), are doing it on the cheap because they need a power plant asap and are rushing to get it done. I have seen 100’s of V8 swaps done by the DIY/professionals in cruisers and there is always something that is not done well or becomes a problem later. Wiring, plumbing, exhaust… there is always something that needs to be tweaked or fixed or updated. Case in point (sorry Daniel) but did anyone see Long Cruiser’s posts about coming back from KOH??? Hits Green River UT and lost the transmissions due to poorly routed transmission cooler lines in his LS Swapped limo. I have also seen professional swaps have electrical issues. We were on Kane Creek at Cruise Moab one year and his turn key professionally installed LS swap from a really big well known resto shop kept going into limp mode every couple miles and we kept having to unhook the battery, touch negative and positive leads together to clear the memory so he could move forward. Almost every LS swap diy or professional has something that needs improved once it’s been installed. I have also had to go back and tweak things on LS’s I have done.
Going away from the oem decreases the reliability of the truck.
Since I’ve turbo’d my 80 over 3 years ago I’ve done oil changes, my clients have done oil changes. That’s about it for maintenance that anyone has done. Maybe an improved fan clutch which is easy and new exhaust which likely needed done anyways given the vehicles age. It’s also a much easier install for the diyer and professional. Also the confidence with the turbo systems is high. Last summer we got a truck running with a rebuilt (by us) engine with a turbo 3 days before we had to leave CO for Rubithon… ran the trail without a hiccup besides busting up some control arms
Cost
DIY - Hands down goes to turbo. You aren’t doing a proper OE level LS Swap for anywhere near the cost of strapping on a turbo.
Professional
Cost still goes to turbo. We can rebuild the 1FZ - Add a turbo - add an intercooler and a transmission and be below what I charge for an LS Swap. Plus all the factory electrical stays Toyota (assuming 95-97 stage 1)
Performance
Depends what LS you use but generally LS wins this vs a stage 1 turbo. The stage 1 turbo is generally like putting a 5.3L under the hood. You gain 65 hp and 100 ftlbs to the ground. Go to a 6.2 and LS is making more than the stage 1. Stage 2 turbo, more power than a 6.2. Also fwiw most people who have driven or ridden in a stage 1 turbo truck say it’s enough power for them. I can keep 70-75 up any grade with stage 1 turbo (this has been well tested on I70 going to the Eisenhower tunnel (11k ft).
For the guys convinced that LS is the only way… it is a great option. Truly it is.
For the guys convinced that turbo is the way… it’s a great option. Truly it is.
Either way you slice it getting away from the OEM is going to have its own challenges. Both are great options and have their place. Really comes down to the end consumer and the wants vs needs. I wouldn’t say one is better than the other, both are proven.
All good points and I have also seen plenty of botched LS swaps, installed by shops too.
The engine bay is very cramped and tight with a turbo, especially with an intercooler. The turbo also generates A LOT of heat under the hood.
My N/A 1FZ that was a brand new engine not rebuilt 20k miles ago and out performs any other I have seen or driven. I can easily hold 85mph. It’s great sea level to about 4,000ft and then it suffers for sure. I drive it aggressively, I have timing set to 8* and I run 91 or higher in it. Nice exhaust with only one cat. People who seem to complain about 1FZ tend to baby them, have a very heavy Cruiser, live at elevation or have an old worn out engine that performs poorly. My Cruiser is on the lighter side but for a 31yr old truck it does amazing well. I think the NA really suffers at elevation and that is where the turbo really helps out.
The LS, I just don’t think there is much better except a built up 1HDFTE. And those are completely different in how they drive.
Don’t like the LS? No worries, Johnny offers the turbo and it is a great option to have.
Like LS swaps? Cool follow this thread to see how they are swapped in correctly.
Cheers
I’m getting ready to do this myself but was wondering what adaptor you used? Also, did the adaptor move it closer to you or about the same as the stock wheel?
Can I make a recommendation? It retains the cruiser control. HKB Sports OT-135.