Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week? (7 Viewers)

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Added a shore power connection to my Dissent rear bumper. There was a perfect blank spot to the right of the hitch. Drilled a 2 inch hole, drilled and threaded holes for the hardware (did my best to match the existing hardware). Just have to run an extension into the interior.

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I finally got my Land cruiser back with a new front differential, shafts and a used transfer case. Was a nice dent in the piggy bank but sure does beat driving the Chevy I have been the last few weeks. Thanks to CBT and @murf for getting my truck back up and running.
 
Was having an issue with the ABS/brakes in my 94 LC. The issue was/is a slip like the ABS kicking in when I braked it would pull to the right as the front left slipped from what felt like the ABS kicking on. So earlier this week I pulled the ABS fuse and been rolling like that the last couple of days and the issue is gone. I am probably going to pull the ABS, delete the LSPV but at the same time add the Wilwood manual proportioning valve. I have heard that the braking is 50\50 when you do the ABS/LSPV delete. Honestly, I would like closer to 70/30 or 60/40, I know with a higher rear pressure I will go through rear brakes faster.
 
Was having an issue with the ABS/brakes in my 94 LC. The issue was/is a slip like the ABS kicking in when I braked it would pull to the right as the front left slipped from what felt like the ABS kicking on. So earlier this week I pulled the ABS fuse and been rolling like that the last couple of days and the issue is gone. I am probably going to pull the ABS, delete the LSPV but at the same time add the Wilwood manual proportioning valve. I have heard that the braking is 50\50 when you do the ABS/LSPV delete. Honestly, I would like closer to 70/30 or 60/40, I know with a higher rear pressure I will go through rear brakes faster.

Try the delete without the proportioning valve first. I think you will find as myself and others have it is not needed.
 
Looks like I am going to be replacing the valve cover gaskets on the '99 5VZ soon. There is oil seeping up around the spark plug boots, creating an intermittent misfire.
 
Try the delete without the proportioning valve first. I think you will find as myself and others have it is not needed.
My 80 deleted the ABS all by itself. ABS light has been on for 50k miles.. man they do make good light bulbs!
 
That's great news.
What kind of break in steps and procedures did you follow?
Nothing too crazy on the break in. Since the cams weren't new there wasn't really a "procedure" needed necessarily. I just drove it easy with lower and sustained speed trips around town. Paid close attention to the coolant temp and oil pressure, checked the oil and coolant frequently and checked for leaks. Then it went on the long journey across the Mojave National Preserve in February:steer:
 
This weekend on the LCP Turbo 80-

Made new bushing for the intercooler
New Fiama horn
Installed the new LCP battery hold down
Installed the new LCP fusable link anti stress mod
Removed a bunch of WTF wiring under the hood
Greased the drive lines
Replaced the rear shock bushings
Installed the LCP always window power mod
Put on clips to tighten rear magazine holders
Finished up with its first bath since purchase


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Where will the compressor mount?

It's either going on the passenger side, about where I had it mounted already, or I'm going to put it on the driver side in roughly the same spot by the jack storage. Leaning towards driver, since I plan on putting a drawer on that side and the compressor will tuck in nicely and be out of the way.
 
So I am now having the original gas tank stripped, internal rust-stuff removed, cleaned again and then coated with I think the KBS sealant. Anyone done this before?
Also putting down some new homemade tank liners...
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Got the electric fuel pump installed, plumbed and wired up. Just need to get the tank back, installed and filled. Then hopefully it will fire up for some carb adjusting stuff...
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I was thinking that was a Dyno test...



Must be the mini truck. I remember those Dyno tests. Can't say I miss them even though never had a issue passing. Is this in the year range that you have to go annually? Just the emmisions part of registration cost a lot more than I pay for the complete registration on five year tags.
 
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I've been leaving a portable weather station (air temp/humidity) in the truck for the past week just to see how hot it gets in there.
from 7 am to 11-12 it was reading 118-124 depending on clouds/outside temps, which were 104-108.
at 5 leaving work it was between 132 and 137.

I had looked into linex for the roof, and a thread popped up in the 200s forum by someone else pondering the same thing.
specifically, the rear AC blows hot air for the first few minutes and struggles to cool off the back.
someone mentioned Bus-Kote. It is a plastic based paint with ceramic material in it designed by NASA for a school district to put on their busses. (hence the name)

at $50 a can, vs over 200 for linex, I thought I'd give it a try. https://www.amazon.com/Hy-Tech-Ther...=UTF8&qid=1530121622&sr=8-1&keywords=bus+kote



day one, leaving work interior temp 118. Day 2, temp was 124, but the rear ac vents blow luke warm air upon start up and cool down almost immediately.

it isn't as durable as linex/rino lining, but should help protect the roof from errant tiedown strap hooks or small dings from loading the roof rack.
plus, I'm all kinds of hipster-retro with the white top on red cruiser :grinpimp:


so far,very happy with the investment.
 
View attachment 1732048 I've been leaving a portable weather station (air temp/humidity) in the truck for the past week just to see how hot it gets in there.
from 7 am to 11-12 it was reading 118-124 depending on clouds/outside temps, which were 104-108.
at 5 leaving work it was between 132 and 137.

I had looked into linex for the roof, and a thread popped up in the 200s forum by someone else pondering the same thing.
specifically, the rear AC blows hot air for the first few minutes and struggles to cool off the back.
someone mentioned Bus-Kote. It is a plastic based paint with ceramic material in it designed by NASA for a school district to put on their busses. (hence the name)

at $50 a can, vs over 200 for linex, I thought I'd give it a try. https://www.amazon.com/Hy-Tech-Ther...=UTF8&qid=1530121622&sr=8-1&keywords=bus+kote



day one, leaving work interior temp 118. Day 2, temp was 124, but the rear ac vents blow luke warm air upon start up and cool down almost immediately.

it isn't as durable as linex/rino lining, but should help protect the roof from errant tiedown strap hooks or small dings from loading the roof rack.
plus, I'm all kinds of hipster-retro with the white top on red cruiser :grinpimp:


so far,very happy with the investment.


Interesting stuff. Did you just apply it with a roller?
 
it was a busy weekend...I swapped out the 3.90 gears for 4.30s.
Fauxwing workshop!!!

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to go budget build I found a front diff on ebay that came from a 2010 tundra.
for the rear, I picked up a 1999 rear axle from a guy in Prescott valley. it was a local truck that submarined last September.
the 1999 carrier and locker are almost a direct fit in the 200. I had to grind out a notch for the locker actuator and the sway bar doesn't clear the factory solenoid. still working on a solution for that. so I'm rolling around with no sway bar for the moment.


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but the 4.30s really help the driveline. its no race car by any means, just doesn't struggle to get out of it's own way.
 

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