What are these connectors? (1 Viewer)

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1993 fzj80.

What are these for? The black one is coming off the VSV and the orange one was hanging behind the engine and I assume goes in the red connector you can see behind it.

What about the heat shrunk wire? It's coming from the same loom as the orange connector.

Found this when removing broken EGR valve today.

Vehicle is new to me and I haven't gotten the 1fz manual yet.

20210606_193753.jpg
 
The black one could possibly be the EGR sensor back to the ECU. The orange one looks rather like a fuel injector connector. Does your truck have a misfire by chance?
 
Possibly. It was driving fine and I took it to get smogged and registered. It passed smog but when driving away I lost all power when in gear. It will rev fine in park and neutral but as soon as it goes in gear it's super sluggish and takes like a minute to reach 35-40mph and can't get above that.

Upon inspection I foundy EGR was cracked and a crack in my air intake. So I figured maybe I was running lean and ordered replacement parts. When I removed the EGR I saw those loose connectors.
 
I think @Irish Reiver has it right.

I added some dots to your photo below:
  • red dots may be each end of an injector connection, if so cylinder #6 looks to be unpowered with no fuel
  • blue dot looks like it may be from the temp sensor for the EGR circuit, follow to other end of wires and if it's screwed into the upper intake across from the egr valve (in picture) then it's that temp sensor. You may have a simulator in place of this temp sensor to avoid the check engine light and P0401/2 codes?
  • green dot is where your EGR vacuum modulator used to live. The two vacuum lines in the foreground come from the top of your throttle body and are creating relevant lean condition vacuum leaks. The lower line that's now disconnected is from the exhaust pass through to the EGR that helps control the modulator and the final goes to the EGR valve itself. Not sure of your plans but if you have any need or intention of keeping the EGR system long term I'd buy a new modulator and reinstall then troubleshoot from there.
20210606_193753.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I looked at more photos and agree the orange is a fuel injector. So I'll hook that back up later at home. Hopefully that along with new air intake fixes my power issues.

I do have to have an EGR for smog, replacement one is already ordered. I just don't know what that connector is for, my 3FE doesn't have one on it's EGR so never seen it before.
 
Number 3 in the first post, first picture of this thread:


Once your EGR vacuum modulator is in place and the temp sensor plugged in there's a good chance that you'll still have a PO401 (EGR insufficient flow) or PO402 (too much EGR flow) code after driving it a bit. You'll want to make sure you have no clogs in the vacuum sources on the throttle body or in the intake pass-through tube. You'll also want to test the EGR VSV valve by blowing through it and powering it off/on to see if it allows air flow and then stops it. There could be other issues but these are the most common along with failed Vacuum Modulators, which you'll have ruled out by replacing with new I assume :)

Search PO401 or PO402 if/when you get those codes on the forum and you'll find plenty to read through and process.
 
So good news is I plugged the injector back in and I have full power now. There is still some stumbling when first taking off but I think that's gonna be related to the crack in my air intake. At least I hope.

There is no where to plug that EGR sensor in. I was reading a different thread that mentioned some non CA cruisers came with that bypassed as it wasn't required for federal emissions.
 

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