What are normal EGT temps?

[Scamper]

I recently put an EGT gauge on my truck since I have a SC and want to be sure I don't overdo things (same setup as George S.). Problem is that I can't find anyone who can tell me what "normal" temperatures are.

I find that at idle, it runs about 600F, and under level highway driving will run at about 1200F. Under load (i.e., uphill grade) it's hit 1300-1350F. I will be pulling a trailer and so expect that temps will run a bit higher when under load.

So my real question is, how high should I let it go before getting worried? Anyone out there know this sort of thing?

Tom

 

[cruiserdan]

Tom,

You may want to post that question on 80scool. I think the international list could give you an answer. You could also do a search there.

I would like to know what you find.

Dan.

 

[Scamper]

Good idea Dan...I'll do that and post back any findings. Guess I just like this board better :G

Tom

 

[BigMac]

Tom:
I have an Auto Meter pyrometer that I am trying to find time to install - will share some "unblown" temps as soon as I can. &nbspid you put yours on the A pillar using an Auto Meter pod? If so, any hints that would make it easier? Where did you drill the hole for the temp probe? Thanks, BigMac

 

[Photoman]

Tom and BigMac,
If it is of any help here is a picture of the way I mounted the gauge pods. I used the kind of plastic inserts with Phillips screws so I can pull the gauges if I want. I had to modify the gauge pods to work with the size gauges I have by reaming them out, then heating them and pushing the gauge in. The upholstery is removed from the A-pillar. I'm sorry I can't remember my temps as I have not run the cruiser for six months. They probably would have been useless to you as I have a custom radiator and other mods that would affect them. The temp probe is mounted just before the cats in the collector. I had to do this since I'm running headers and would have had to mount them in a single pipe otherwise. FWIW the EGT has become basically useless to me as I have a temp gauge with a warning alert on it set for 226 F and head for the side of the road :tear: when it goes off.
Bill

 

[Scamper]

BigMac,
Thanks--I'll look forward to that data.

That's the same setup I used for the pyrometer. I placed the probe six inches south of the manifold flange on the top as suggested on the instructions. I used the forward exhaust pipe since it was easier to reach. Hardest part was to get the clamp started since I was kinda working single-handed due to the SC being in my face. It might have been easier working from below, but I didn't want to get dirty :G
I used the pod from AutoMeter and placed it low on the A-pillar. My interior is that beige color so I painted the pod first using that new Krylon Fusion paint that's supposedly made for plastics. It didn't "fuse" in my hands, so it needed a bit of touchup after the install. You'll need to remove the hand-grip then just pull the cover off the A-pillar--as easy as it gets. "Dry fit" everything to where you want it before you commit, then drill away. I made a hole about one inch wide for the wires. The leading edge of the pod just slips under the moulding around the pillar. Pay particular attention to feeding all the wires through the cover as well as the pod before you screw it all down or you'll end up doing it over a few times like I did . I would also suggest that you don't use the supplied plastic push-pin type holders on the pod as they don't hold worth a damn--they're too short and weak. Instead, I got some of those little round plastic screw inserts and put them in the cover, then used small (#8) panheads to hold it in. Worked much better and is removable should I ever want or need to.
Very nice gauge and works well--good luck.

Tom

PS: out of curiosity, why are you putting a pyrometer in if you're not super/turbocharged? Or are you planning ahead?

 

[Scamper]

Bill,

Nice setup! I think we basically came to the same conclusion on those pins. I don't think I'll need to remove the pod, but I know those pins would have required my destroying them if I ever wanted to remove them, and they weren't holding the pod in anyway.

Tom

 

[BigMac]

Thanks Bill-
Your multi-pod installation looks great. I hate working with dash/instrument panels - always break something - but I see no good mounting alternative to the pillar pods.

Looks like drill accessibility will be the main driver for probe location. Best bet looks like the forward downpipe, upstream of the "Y". Not optimal, but I think it will give sufficient warning of when I need to lift my right foot.

My schedule has been screwed up by UPS - no joy again today. I will post EGT data when available. BigMac

 

[Scamper]

BigMac: I wouldn't say that the forward downpipe is non-optimal. From the manufacturer's perspective, it's correct. I had also done some reading up on EGT in general and the consensus seemed to be that you want to be close as possible to the exhaust manifold since you're trying to measure that high temperature. The further downstream you go, the colder it will get and so you're not getting what you think in terms of temperatures. The only exception I consistently saw with this "rule of thumb" was that if you had a turbo, you wanted to be downstream of the turbine in the unlikely but possible situation where the probe decided to break/burn off and trash the turbine.

But the bottom line is that you want to know what's happening in real time to your engine, and close to the manifold will give you the best estimate of exhaust gas temps. That is undoubtedly why you bought the pyrometer in the first place. There was even one site that commented on the melting point of aluminum ...I sure hope my engine never gets quite that hot!

No matter where you place the probe however, what most people will do is look for relative changes to the operating "norm" which will differ from installation to installation (so George tells me). That's perfectly okay, and in fact is why I'm trying to find out what the "norm" should be for my truck since I had installed the SC before the pyrometer. Of course it can also help you to figure out mods if needed as might be the case if you frequently find yourself in a lean burn condition, and then help you see if it's working.

So if you do install exactly six inches below the flange, you will likely be the best baseline I'm likely to find for my installation (no pressure there... :G).

Cheers,

Tom

 

[BigMac]

Tom:
I will look for the sweet spot 6" from the flange and see if I can drill there so we can compare notes. My intent is exactly what you describe, to get a baseline before S/C install and then keep me out of trouble afterward. Appreciate your experience - any wiring or routing issues I should anticipate? Where did you pick up the gauge lighting circuit input? Thanks again, BigMac

 

[Scamper]

Argh! I was afraid you'd ask! :killtard:

I'm sure the electrical guys will wail on me for this, but here goes... Disclaimer :stupid:: I did TRY to get advise on this, but had no takers, so had to kludge it.

For the 12V backlight circuit, I tapped into the DS parking light away up front, and ran a wire back to the gauge. If that wasn't bad enough, for the 12V switched, I tapped into what I'm pretty sure is the ABS circuit next to the fuse box under the hood and again ran a wire back. It's pretty hard to find a loose wire in this truck as they're all sealed up or packed way underneath stuff, so my choices were limited. If anyone can suggest alternate/better locations, I'm all ears.

Tom

 

[BigMac]

Tom:
I'm Pyro'ed up now - (Auto Meter 3344), with the probe in the forward down pipe, 6" from the manifold flange. Haven't taken it on any long drives, but I can tell my temps are higher than yours. Initial start-up idle is 600, bumps up to 800 after driving. 60 mph/2K RPM, 65-75 deg OAT, 91 octane, level road, air/cruise on, shows 1150-1175. The real eye-opener was a WOT pull up a steep hill for 2 miles or so, O/D off, 60-65 mph, stable EGT at 1500. That sure doesn't leave much room on a 1600 deg gauge for S/C-induced spikes.....

I was very concerned initially, but searched the internet and found reported EGT values that pretty well matched mine. For example: http://www.gadgetonline.com/gauges.htm describes a 4 Runner with a TRD S/C. Of course, I'm still looking for more EGT samples from FZ-FE engines, blown or not.

I have a couple of trips planned for the next two weeks, including a run to Las Vegas in early July, so I should be able to build a good data base before I install the S/C. BigMac

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

Bill -

For many vehicles there are both double, and triple gauge pods available, but I've never seen anything but singles for Land Cruisers. It is not clear (to me) from your comments... but are those three individual gauge pods, or some multiple that I am unfamiliar with?

Ron -

 

[Photoman]

Ron,
Mine are the single gauge pods. I tried to find the part number for you but I use the pile method for filing and couldn't find the right pile. I don't know if they make the double or triple pods for the cruiser now. I think I got them from Autometer but am unsure. I did find a receipt for my gauges and they are 60mm which as I said earlier I had to ream out the pods to fit. The other thing I remember about the pods is it took a very long time to get them (maybe 5 months). I don't think they are really popular and the company only makes a run every so often. Things may have changed now.
Bill

 

[Big_Moose]

Ron

I recently ordered the gauge pods for my 96.
Could only find single gauge pod units.

Website:
www.egauges.com

P#: 15413

Website ordering leads to:
Don's Sport Vehicle Sales
24514 W. Six Mile Road
Detroit, MI 48219
1-800-303-6211
fx: 313-533-0779
email: orders@donssport.com

Ok, why is everyone measuring the EGT, when this is predominantly used for Diesel vehicles? Depending upon where the sensor is installed, the temperature reading are "not" true / accurate, so why not boost monitoring over EGT?

Joe

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

Bill -

>> I use the pile method for filing...

I have a much better system, but it all ends up in a pile anyway - so don't waste your time trying improving your lot . Yep, I thought they might be singles - I believe that is all that is made for Cruisers. Thanks!


Greetings Joe -

Good to hear from ya, and thanks for the URL. That's a new one, so I'll compare it to the others I know about ( autometer.com, gaugepods.com, et.al. ). I have a feeling there is only one company making these, and all of these sites are sourcing from the same mfr.

Cheers,

R -