Well that was fun...not

Joined
Dec 29, 2003
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Been out wrenchin again on the Cruiser. I got the code 71 EGR and narrowed it to everyones beloved VSV. Ordered one up from cdan and went to install it tonite. Do you think they could of made it much more painfull?? I first undid the bolts to the bracket under the intake from under the truck with a 3ft extension. OK..painless enough. Now the tough part begins. Getting that damn screw out of the bracket that holds the old VSV in. Wouldn't budge no matter how much swearing. So I got even more steamed..like none of us do and starting rippin sh1t out including all the vacuum lines to both VSV's. Oh..oh..now I did it, but I got the VSV out with the bracket ::)

I put the new VSV in and plumbed up all I could to the VSV's to bracket mess and then tried to hook up the other open lines. No can do ghostrider. Just not enough room under that intake to reach anything. I thought I was going to have to remove the intake runner...with its wonderfully engineered bolts put in from the bottom ..real genius there :mad: whoever did that was stoned that day. I tried one other thing though first and removed the throttle body. Hey..now we're getting somewhere!! Full access now the all the vacuum lines. Plugged in the 3-4 vacuum lines in the back and was all set :D

I cleaned the throttle body and intake runners as best as I could while it was out and then reassembled.

For those of you needing to replace the EGR VSV, do yourselves a BIG favor and remove the Throttle Body first. It would have been so easy of a job if I would have done this first. You can get to the bracket bolts and all vacuum lines if you do very easily.

Wanting more punishment, I replaced the brittle flaked and baked throttle cable. What's up with that Toyota??? Even my old GM crap wouldn't do that. The job was pretty easy once I removed the entire gas pedal to get the cable bolts back in. So, remove the whole gas petal first for this job..much easier.

Feeling undefeated, I removed all the door panels and greased the window mechanisms with marine grease and silicon and made them much faster :)

I took apart the drivers master window control and cleaned all the black carbon from all the switch contacts. It made the windows even faster by probably sending them more current. Watch for all the damn springs though that are inside the switch when you open it up!

Well, that's enough fun for the night. Maybe I can enjoy driving this thing a bit instead of fixing everything. Just the rear wheel bearings to go and I'm Done!! :beer:

Mark
 
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
109
Mjos,

Why didn't you tackle the PHH while you were doing the easy things?
:D


Nice bit of work for a day!

andre
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
25
Thanks guys. I didn't hardly sleep a lick last night since my mind was still racing and reliving the pain.

The VSV Tested bad with high resistance..about 3x higher than what it should be. So far no more Code 71 after 4 trips now at varying drives. Cross fingers. ::)

Mark

If I keep working on this thing it will be like new :-\ I guess it beats a $600/mnth car payment though.
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
25
By the way, I did look at the Bastid PHH when I had the TB off and it actually looked fine. No seepage around the clamps or bulged hose. I saw a bunch of failed ones at Christo's shop and mine looked like new compared to them.

I sure it will let go though when I am driving though the desert ::)

Mark
 

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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errrr.... you *did* put back the locking nut on the intake torque sensor, didn't you... ? :D
Eric
 

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