Well it happened, broke down on the road... (1 Viewer)

[gfmcl]

2006 LX470, 248000 miles. Heading home from a 600 mile trip, loaded up with my wife and two dogs. About 60 miles from home, check engine light comes on, temp gauge rises all the way up. Fortunately, pulled off exit ramp, gauge went back to low, and that was it. Steam pouring from the under the hood. Code was P0117, Engine Coolant temperature circuit low input. Clearly a coolant leak of some kind, and all remaining coolant was expelled. Fortunately, I was able to get a tow home, but the dogs we not happy as they had to stay in the vehicle as they were too large to fit in the cab of the tow truck. Off to the shop tomorrow via another tow to assess the damage.

Now I'm understandably concerned: This is my go-to vehicle for road trips as I make frequent 600 mile trips, and now my wife (and dogs) are not keen on taking another trip in it. I really don't want to think about replacing it with something newer (I would go to the 200 series), but I'm clearly nervous now.

Appreciate any thoughts and/or words of encouragement.

-g

 

[YotaWagon]

They'll find the coolant leak, fix it, and you'll be ready for your next road trip.

If it wasn't the heater t's that broke, and you haven't done them in a while, then I'd add that to the list of whatever they find.

 

[War Rig]

As long as you caught it before it warped the heads, at worst you're just a few new parts away from it being more reliable than it was last month. Fact of the matter is that you probably could have just refilled the radiator and driven it home if you needed to and assessed the damage there. I wouldnt let this discourage you from future road trips once it's fixed.

 

[newbielx470]

As long as you caught it before it warped the heads, at worst you're just a few new parts away from it being more reliable than it was last month. Fact of the matter is that you probably could have just refilled the radiator and driven it home if you needed to and assessed the damage there. I wouldnt let this discourage you from future road trips once it's fixed.

Just curious, how long would it take from temperature gauge going up to causing warped head(s)? I read somewhere that the 4.7L is very solid and can withstand occasional issues like overheating. But I understand if it's happening repeatedly or for longer time it'll cause damage.

 

[War Rig]

Just curious, how long would it take from temperature gauge going up to causing warped head(s)? I read somewhere that the 4.7L is very solid and can withstand occasional issues like overheating. But I understand if it's happening repeatedly or for longer time it'll cause damage.

That I can't tell you. Hopefully someone else here knows. Like you, I'm under the impression it would take a lot more than what happened in your situation. I've got my fingers crossed for you, bud!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Did you poke around under the hood at all to see where the coolant was coming from?

 

[yj668]

Here’s what you can potentially do to help meanwhile.

If you had the hundy towed home, it’s best to check the source of leaks yourself unless you can get an honest shop to perform the inspection because this can potentially lead to a costly diagnosis selling you unneeded repairs.

Check out potential leak points, including the heater Tees if they snapped.

If you can get the source of leak isolated and grab some distilled water off the grocery store to check if the hundy held its coolant level.

Check if it blew head gaskets
You can perform an oil change with some cheaper motor oil. Check if your motor oil pan sump drains a coolant/water + oil mixture or pure motor oil.

On the compression side of things
check if it starts and does it idle rough. If it doesn’t start, you have a bigger problem.

You are likely to make a more informed decision when sending off the hundy to a shop for repair if you made some preliminary diagnosis at home. There’s a chance you do not need a major repair other than cleaning up fluids if the only problem were the heater tee hoses.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I agree with yj668. You might as well fill the radiator and overflow tank with water and try to start it up. If you get calamity shut it off. If it runs OK check to see if you can find the leak. Take off the engine cover ( four 10mm nuts/bolts), have a good flashlight and footstool.

 

[gfmcl]

Thanks for the replies. The vehicle is at home, heading to the shop tomorrow. I trust them and hopefully it’s just a hose somewhere. I wasn’t able to tell where the leak was coming from during the moment, and frankly would rather let the shop take a look. I had mentioned the heater tees in the past and they indicated they had already been changed out.

Fingers crossed it’s something simple….

 

[gfmcl]

Update: it was the radiator. I know it should have been replaced earlier, but didn’t, so for those who haven’t, get yours checked. Mine was original to the vehicle.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Update: it was the radiator. I know it should have been replaced earlier, but didn’t, so for those who haven’t, get yours checked. Mine was original to the vehicle.

And what's the report on the engine?

 

[War Rig]

Update: it was the radiator. I know it should have been replaced earlier, but didn’t, so for those who haven’t, get yours checked. Mine was original to the vehicle.

Great news, as long as everything else is ok! I swapped to an all-aluminum CSF radiator last month and highly recommend it, if you want something that's over engineered to outlast OEM.

 

[gfmcl]

And what's the report on the engine?

So far ok. Just need to drive it, check for any leaks, but it seemed to check out ok. Mechanic said to watch the coolant level.

 

[100d ua]

Update: it was the radiator. I know it should have been replaced earlier, but didn’t, so for those who haven’t, get yours checked. Mine was original to the vehicle.

Don't let one bad experience spoil your love affair with the 100.

The radiator and heater T's are one of the few things that can really cripple our rigs and leave us stranded somewhere. That's why it's extremely important to baseline our 100s and check for original or old equipment that needs replacement.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Great news, as long as everything else is ok! I swapped to an all-aluminum CSF radiator last month and highly recommend it, if you want something that's over engineered to outlast OEM.

I have an 06 and radiator is original as well. Glad it wasn’t anything serious. With this post the radiator is now my top priority especially summer is just around the corner.

 

[nissanh]

I have an 06 and radiator is original as well. Glad it wasn’t anything serious. With this post the radiator is now my top priority especially summer is just around the corner.

Here is another: The OEM radiators last so long, that many will neglect it. Don't forget there is a trans cooler inside it and those tubes will corrode slowly and after 20 years of service it may even make a pin hole and then can contaminate the coolant and trans fluid. Replace radiators (if non-OEM) at least once every 10-12 years. I do timing belts every 10-12 years and will install a new radiator during this operation.

 

[Kabanstva]

Great news, as long as everything else is ok! I swapped to an all-aluminum CSF radiator last month and highly recommend it, if you want something that's over engineered to outlast OEM.

Nah aluminum radiators can be a cat in a bag. Had 3-4 leak on other builds we’ve done. I’ll stick to OEM unless you’re building a high HP race car.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Update: it was the radiator. I know it should have been replaced earlier, but didn’t, so for those who haven’t, get yours checked. Mine was original to the vehicle.

Where did it fail?

FWIW, I replaced my '90 4Runner's original radiator at year 30 of its life. It hadn't failed but was looking a bit long in the tooth.

 

[gfmcl]

Where did it fail?

FWIW, I replaced my '90 4Runner's original radiator at year 30 of its life. It hadn't failed but was looking a bit long in the tooth.

It failed at hour 8 of a 9 hour drive, on the interstate. Was able to pull off an exit ramp and shut it off. Worst part was there was nothing at the exit, probably a good thing as I may have been tempted to drive it more.

 

[War Rig]

Nah aluminum radiators can be a cat in a bag. Had 3-4 leak on other builds we’ve done. I’ll stick to OEM unless you’re building a high HP race car.

Not doubting or trying to argue, but genuinely curious- how did your all-aluminum radiators fail? I figured without plastic end tanks to wear down, there's really not much else that can go wrong.