Well, I am crawling around at 10pm under my new...

Skillet

Skillet
 
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"to me" 1993 FZJ80.
There is some residual oil film all over.
Does not seem fresh.
Guy had $4600 :eek: worth of work done about 12,000 miles ago.
Birf rebuild repack, new seals, etc...
The truck has 185,000 on it now.
Is there supposed to be some residule grease build-up on the birf domes?
Seems normal, I am just paranoid about my new purchase.
Now, I know there are threads on this but no conclusions, should I switch to Synthetic in the engine at 185K?? I have heard arguments on both sides.

BTW, so far, you guys and your information have been fantastic.

I only have one complaint....I am losing sleep staying up all night reading all of this "stuff".

I know I am rambling but if anyone would chime in...:beer:

My house needs work, what the hell am I doing???
 

TX_TLC

 
 
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Yes you want a thin film of greese on the birf...

"Residual oil film" could possibly be from messy oil changes...depends where the "film" is located.

I switched to Mobile 1 when I got mine and experienced increased consumption...switched to Rotella T and love it.

Conclusions are left for you to make there isn't a right or wrong answer. We just give our experiences to help you draw your own determinations on what to do to your rig.

Congrats!
 
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Did you get a good price? Is it locked? Congrats man! I just bought my second and know the feeling but they're sound rides so I'm sure you're square!
 

WES1977

 
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www.amsoil.com would tell you about synthetics. I think they say it's ok to do, but i've heard that it will find the leaks faster. It well help reduce the wear going on over non sythetics. I would do it.
 
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I was told by a master mechanic, don't switch on synthetics on older car, unless it has new head gasket. Please let me it is ture or not.
 

Skillet

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sonoranfun said:
Did you get a good price? Is it locked? Congrats man! I just bought my second and know the feeling but they're sound rides so I'm sure you're square!

Got it for $7000 flat. The guy was asking $7500 and I had a hard time with talking him down to 7K because, as I said, he just put the $4600 into it.
She drives very good, passed smog like a champ ( I am in CA).
The leather on the front seats is pretty cracked up, but I am getting the WetOkole covers so I can forget about it! Typical wear and tear on the rest.

Couple of little lights do not work on the dash Drive and Reverse indicators.

Blue Book is $6800 in "Good" condition so I figure I did okay. What do you guys think?

The carfax was clean but it does look like the drivers side front fender was repainted once. Perhaps and undisclosed fender bender. Should I be concerned? Nothing else looks amis.

Oh, BTW, it is indeed "LOCKED". And it WORKS! :bounce:

You guys have great input. I may break the trend and go MOBIL 1. Don'd know yet.
 

TX_TLC

 
 
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Using Mobile 1 wouldn't break any trends...read the synthetic oil thread - might have moved on to page 2.

You might want to look at the ticket for the $4600 worth of work and make sure they replaced the inner axle oil seal. It isn't in the list of recommended replacement parts from Toyota.

Sounds like a good price as well. THere is a great thread about the D and R lights, if they bother you enough to replace them.

Also search about seat covers another well covered topic. IIRC not everyone liked the WetOkole.
 

Skillet

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TX_TLC said:
You might want to look at the ticket for the $4600 worth of work and make sure they replaced the inner axle oil seal. It isn't in the list of recommended replacement parts from Toyota.
TX_TLC, what issues might arise if this was not replaced?

What should I look for?

Thanks!
 

MTNRAT

 
 
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Do you mean "residual oil film ALL over". As in almost like an undercoat. If so that is a factory film of some substance of which others may know.
Cheers,
Sean
 
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2garfields said:
I was told by a master mechanic, don't switch on synthetics on older car, unless it has new head gasket. Please let me it is ture or not.
As long as the head gasket is not leaking, I don't see how it affects oil selection? I suggest you find a new "master mechanic"!:D
 
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Whitey said:
TX_TLC, what issues might arise if this was not replaced?

What should I look for?

Thanks!
If you get a greyish/milky grease or significant leakage at the knuckle seals the inner axle seal could be allowing gear oil/grease transfer -hence the greyish milky/nasty/thick/ugly/pisses me off when it happens, hydrcarbonish-like CRAP!

You are pply fine BTW. If you are super hyper and paranoid (which you seem to be on the verge), let a cup or so of 90 wt out of the differential housing (put new in to top her off) and check its color. You may see some very faint "SMALL" metallic floaters in there-but a little bit is normal-as long as it isn't the greyish milky/nasty/thick/ugly/pisses me off when it happens, hydrcarbonish-like CRAP! you are set.

As far as the synthetics go-maybe for OLDER cars, OLDER, OLDER-but the seals in the 2f/3fe/1fz(which you have) are pretty up to date and Synthetics have come A LONG way in the last few years-I really wouldn't sweat it. The detergent qualities of the fully synthetic oils are a great thing-and not something to be discounted.

When I got my 92-my poor engine was sludge city-I now run M1 synthetic oils in every part of the car-all the way down to the wheel bearings/U-joints/etc. Clean as a whistle...
 

NorCalDoug

problems solved daily...
 
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Congrats on the rig!
Depending on where the "residual oil film" is, it could be the undercoating stuff that's on virtually all our rigs. I scraped some off (unintentionally) while wheeling. Take a look at my ROTW for pics of the underside -- specifically on the scraped gas tank shield. If the stuff on yours looks the same as the stuff on mine...it's undercoating.
If you're really paranoid, clean up around the oil pan, tranny pan, etc.; wait a week or so and crawl under there again checking for leaks.

You asked, "Is there supposed to be some residule grease build-up on the birf domes?" -- Yes, it's normal -- is it thick or runny? If it's thick, don't sweat it. If it looks runny, you likely have a bad seal somewhere in there.


Switching to synth shouldn't be a prob. As already mentioned, if you find that you're burning through too much -- switch to another brand.

:cheers:
 
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