Welding HELP!!

[ZGMikey]

Well...not crazy help...just some advice from any mudder that can offer some...

I've been fortunate to have a -62 that really is pretty rust free. But I finally found some, and I won't let myself use a fiberglass patch panel or even...GASP...a big honking goop of JB Weld.

I recently got a carpet kit from Dan, and really want to do it right. So I've chiseled out all of the old tar stuff in the floorboards and will install some QuietCrap. Everything came out really well (except I might have chiseled a tiny hole in the pasenger floorboard - easily fixable).

BUT..the passenger floorboard had a spot of rust that when cut out will probably be about 4" x 4".

So...since I don't have a welder, and since home renovations are the current financial focus, I'm just going to rent one from HD for a day or so.

I've NEVER welded...but like when I renovated my 1917 Seattle Craftsman Bungalow from the studs out...I'll watch some youtube videos and GRD. (That was a fun summer. New sheathing, siding, windows, soffit, fascia, gutters, trim, and a deck!)

Since it'll be under the QuietCrap AND carpet, I'm not worried about looks.

Any tips would be appreciated..what gauge steel to use...what to set the welder on...what wire to feed???

I'm going to get in bed and watch welding videos. Thanks in advance for any advice. And feel free to tell me to just buck up and buy a welder. I really want one, and they're cheaper than new Mountain Bikes (what I really want right now!)

 

[Idaho Savage]

Get a bunch of scrap metal, preferably of the same gauge, and practice a bunch. It's really not hard with a decent mig and a few practice passes.

 

[Feistl]

Mig welding is the easiest method, but you'll struggle to weld thin sheet metal with it (generally it uses too many amps and will burn holes everywhere). All the sheet metal welding repairs I did was with a TIG welder... but that's harder to learn.

You could get away with the "tacking" method... eg hundreds of 1 seconds bursts. It won't be structurally strong but will seal it up nicely.

 

[Hojack]

Welding is fun and when your done you can grab a beer. This was my job stick welding today on Mt. Hood Brewery’s well.

 

[Seth S]

Make sure there is nothing under the area you are welding that you need to worry about like fuel or brake lines or chassis rails etc. keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Also easiest ways to remove that factory asphalt sound proofing is with a heat gun and scraper for a small area or liquid nitrogen and a hammer for large areas

 

[NLXTACY]

Heat gun? Liquid nitrogen? Huh?

Just buy some dry ice (CO2), break it up, lay it on the asphalt material for a minute, more ice to new spot, hammer old spot. Rinse and repeat.

 

[Seth S]

Dry ice works to. We’ve used a big tank of liquid nitrogen to do an entire shell before and it works great. Heat guns are cheap and even a hair dryer works pretty well.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I found a far larger area of rust and used dry ice in a bag for a few minutes and then chipped off the stock dampener. Heat would e messy and super stinky.
I then cut and bent over a wooden dowel w/ a rubber mallet 22g patches. Then I didn’t have a welder so I added a thick rim of seam sealer, stuck them down and attached w/ self racking metal screws. Not the best but better than huge holes.
I now have a simple 110v (it’s what I can plug and play in my garage) lincoln flux core welder but I’ve yet to fix my repairs. I’ve used it for a few simple things and it’s good enough.
The Harbor Frieght hood is a good one, light drops to dark as soon as the first spark, I’ve yet to have it not. It was about $50. Leather gloves and apron and you’ll be good to go.

 

[gregnash]

With where you are talking about putting the patch piece you really dont have to worry about it looking perfect. Hell, I just replaced the small indention where the rear bumper caps are with two pieces of metal that I used my leg, work bench and a small hammer to mold. Just take your time if you are attempting to replicate/fab the piece.

As for practice, go on YouTube and review some of the starter/beginner videos out there. Then grab some scrap metal that is of the same thickness and do a bunch of practice welds. Know you will more than likely blow through, so take your time, throw down a couple tac welds and then let everything cool. Go grab a drink, breather, then come back in 5 minutes and do a couple more tacs. The process will be long but you will be less likely to blow through.

 

[ZGMikey]

I then cut and bent over a wooden dowel w/ a rubber mallet 22g patches. Then I didn’t have a welder so I added a thick rim of seam sealer, stuck them down and attached w/ self racking metal screws. Not the best but better than huge holes.

I think I'll do this, since it'll be covered up with sound deadener, carpet, and NEVER SEEN AGAIN!!!

But a welder is definitely in the plans now. Honestly, I'd rather buy one and then practice my A$$ off with it.

 

[SteveH]

If you're going to eventually get a welder, then floor pans are the BEST place to practice and learn. Start with the best-hidden rust spots, so that when you get to patching the rear quarter panels, you're pretty good at it. Starting with scrap panels is a great idea. Get a junkyard fender or hood, grind off the paint, cut it in half, and then try to weld it back together along the seam. Do yourself a favor and get a 220v gas-shielded welder... not a 110v flux-core.

 

[gregnash]

I think I'll do this, since it'll be covered up with sound deadener, carpet, and NEVER SEEN AGAIN!!!

But a welder is definitely in the plans now. Honestly, I'd rather buy one and then practice my A$$ off with it.

Probably one of the best investment tools I have purchased since purchasing my Land Cruiser. Have used it on a few other things and even had buddies comes over to borrow it to fix something quick on their vehicles.

If you garage has the provisions for the 220v then definitely get a dedicated (or dual voltage) machine for the 220. The little Harbor Freight Vulcan machines and the Amazon Everlast machines have been getting some pretty good reviews on the internet as decent (not great) chicom machines for their price. While I am sure everyone will say "BUY A GOOD WELDER" we can only do as much as we have funding for, so keep your eye out on Craigslist to see if anything pops up, but if new is in your bag then I would aim for a multiprocess welder if at all possible and but main requirement being you get the strongest dedicated MIG for your budget.

 

[Willard]

I used a 135 mig welder (with gas) and did my floor. For the spots that kept catching fire (oiled frame and under side) I used 3M panel adhesive.

The welds I did are far from pretty, actually they look like crap. BUT they are holding fine, I even poured some water on them to find some drips and nothing.

After welding was done, I shot the underside with some self etching primer then some rubber/ asphalt undercoating. holding fine.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah I’m definitely not saying 110v flux is the right way. It’s just what I grabbed when I saw it come up used and I knew I could plug and go.

 

[Willard]

Yeah I’m definitely not saying 110v flux is the right way. It’s just what I grabbed when I saw it come up used and I knew I could plug and go.

It will work, makes super messy welds (splatter) and thin metal is not friendly at all, but thicker stuff will work fine.

When I redid my Chevelle, I used flux at the beginning with full on patch panels, lots of grinding as my welds sucked but they held fine and a little metal to metal filler cleaned them right up. When I had to customize with a little thinner metal I was burning though all of the time, moving to a CO2/argon mix fixed that right smart.

For floor boards (or most things hidden) flux core would be just fine. External body panels use shielded gas.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It will work, makes super messy welds (splatter) and thin metal is not friendly at all, but thicker stuff will work fine.

When I redid my Chevelle, I used flux at the beginning with full on patch panels, lots of grinding as my welds sucked but they held fine and a little metal to metal filler cleaned them right up. When I had to customize with a little thinner metal I was burning though all of the time, moving to a CO2/argon mix fixed that right smart.

For floor boards (or most things hidden) flux core would be just fine. External body panels use shielded gas.

Good to know. Thanks for the explanation. Last few times I’ve used it, it seemed like the splatter was less. On my crank I just did a quick bead and got almost none but it wasn’t as hot as it should have been so it’s a tad porous as Matt noted. @cruisermatt is a real welder who can put in his two cents here.

 

[Willard]

There are a few on here that are amazing welders and make a living at it. I am going off what I was shown in school and when I worked with some talented fabricators, that was a lifetime ago and I have forgotten most of that. I was always better at rebuilding brakes and hydraulics.