Welcome to my 1HDT rebuild nightmare. (2 Viewers)

[Feistl]

Looks good,

There are a couple of ways to prime... by far the best method (which I use) is to get an external oil pump from say an old chev v8, make up an adapter to screw on to the oil filter thread so you can pump oil directly into the engine...

Have someone spin the chev oil pump with a drill to build pressure, while they are doing that start cranking the engine over until oil starts squirting out of the oil filter output hole. That way you know the oil pump is working and providing oil meanwhile the chev pump has protected the motor.

If you crank for like 30 seconds and no oil comes out it means you have an issue with the main pump.

If that doesn’t make sense let me know and I can post some pictures up. But for the relatively low cost (external pump, fittings hoses etc might be $100) but it’s the only way to absolutely protect the engine during first crank.

 

[Loober]

What I've done after my rebuild, disconnect the plug to the fuel solenoid so the engine cannot start while cranking, and crank until you have a pressure reading, even if you have an issue with oil pressure you won't do damage with just the starter. But if everything is good it shouldn't take long for it to show pressure. I would get an aftermarket gauge so you can see exactly what it is to have a piece of mind that its within spec also.

 

[Feistl]

You can still scratch/damage the bearings with the starter motor...

If you are using that method at least remove the glow plugs until you’ve built pressure... that should reduce the load on the bearings considerably...

 

[roscoFJ73]

You can still scratch/damage the bearings with the starter motor...

Wouldnt all the moving surfaces have been covered with some kind of assembly lubricant?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yeah, I'm of the thinking that if it was lubed with an assembly lube, and crank it over on the starter until the pressure comes up, you should be good

 

[roscoFJ73]

I was always taught that every part that will encounter friction, should at least be dipped in engine oil before its joined to the engine.
Also Toyota fill their engine with a "running in oil" . Thats the stuff they take out at the 1000klm service.

If the oil pump was fitted correctly, it should get pressure within seconds

 

[Feistl]

Wouldnt all the moving surfaces have been covered with some kind of assembly lubricant?

Yep, I’m just overly cautious... I’ve done the cranking over thing to build pressure in various rebuilds and sometimes it takes 45+ seconds of cranking... the assembly lube only lasts so long before you’ll scratch a bearing. So I’ve not got a setup that allows me to pressurise any engine will oil before spinning it over.

Just look around on the net for people who’ve sat cranking for 1+ minutes before realising something was wrong. Considering the cost I prefer to take extra safety measures... that’s just me though

 

[gifu]

I recall there is a procedure to prime the oil pump. There's a small plug in the timing case by the oil pump that you are supposed to fill with oil before initial cranking.

Sorry about your bad luck. If it makes you feel better... My 1HDFT saga includes a ruined head (my own fault during a timing belt change), a ruined crank (the harmonic balancer wobbled enough to ruin the nose), and finally a full bearing failure/engine-seize 1000 miles south of San Diego in Baja Sur. Extremely inconvenient. Still love that truck though.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

It never stops. My old engine didn’t have a oil level sensor but my new oil pan has the plate for one. I just made a plate and sealed it with RTV but it appears it’s leaking from the area where a o ring should seal to the oil pan. I really don’t want to spend 300 for a sensor that I’ll never wire up.

any ideas? In the picture my finger is pointing at the crack between the pan and the plate that’s for mounting the sensor. It’s no leaking at the plate I made. It looks like maybe I could smear RTV on the inside where the o ring would normally sit.

 

[mac]

Perhaps you can head to your local parts supplier and find the correct o-ring. When I built my 1hd-t from a new short block I reused my oil pan.

 

[Loober]

@Socal81 If it is leaking between the pan and that mounting plate trying to goop that with RTV will most likley be a band aid fix, you may have to take the pan off and weld that seam.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

@Socal81 If it is leaking between the pan and that mounting plate trying to goop that with RTV will most likley be a band aid fix, you may have to take the pan off and weld that seam.

After seeing how the sensor seals to the pan it makes sense. A o ring presses up against the lip of the actual oil pan. The mounting plate itself isn’t truly sealed around the edges. I gooped RTV where the o ring would normally seal. Let’s hope for the best!

 

[roscoFJ73]

Ask on the MUD classifieds. Someone may have broken oil sensor that will plug the hole. Just be mindful they come in 2 shapes and do not interchange, at least on the 1HZ. Yours should be the pre 99

 

[gifu]

Use the old oil pan.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Use the old oil pan.

Old oil pan was rusted and bent to s***.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Well she fired right up yesterday. Running real smooth! I’ll post videos at some point. Thanks to everyone here who provided some great advice.
Really surprised how quite the G turbo is. Maybe because it’s only set to 15psi? It’s wayyyyy more quite than the stock CT26 that came off. I love the whistle

 

[Jroc561]

I think a few of the gturbo guys mentioned how quiet it is @Lumpskie

 

[Lumpskie]

I think a few of the gturbo guys mentioned how quiet it is @Lumpskie

Yeah, it was so much quieter that people even mentioned it on the trail. I miss the whistle but it flows so well that I forget about that on the freeway.

 

[Magic Spool Bus]

Well a quick update. I changed the oil at 500km. Turned boost up to 18psi and adjusted spring tension. Starting running the engine in a little harder. At 1000km I plan to do a hard pull towing my buddies 4 runner up a hill to really break it in.

cheers to everyone here and thanks for all the help. I pray I get 500k/km out of this one.

 

[jpsfj60]

Well she fired right up yesterday. Running real smooth! I’ll post videos at some point. Thanks to everyone here who provided some great advice.
Really surprised how quite the G turbo is. Maybe because it’s only set to 15psi? It’s wayyyyy more quite than the stock CT26 that came off. I love the whistle

So how did you end up priming the motor before you started it for the 1st time?
Congrats on getting it running? What did you end up spending?