Weird clutch issue (1 Viewer)

[atomicshawn]

Frustrating that didn’t take care of it completely. And fwiw, I worked as a tech through college and grad school, between that work and working on mine and my friends junk, I’ve replaced at least a dozen clutch masters, and many require you to dig your toe under the pedal and pull it up when your bleeding. If you added fluid on the bench when you were assembling it like it sounds, then I’m sure no damage was done. Even if you didn’t put fluid in it, hard to believe one dry slide back would do significant damage. More likely cause would be damage during assembly. But pretty simple job right? Seals went in ok? How did the cylinder look? Any wear or pitting?


…and you do know you can adjust rod/pedal height right?

 

[4lex]

Frustrating that didn’t take care of it completely. And fwiw, I worked as a tech through college and grad school, between that work and working on mine and my friends junk, I’ve replaced at least a dozen clutch masters, and many require you to dig your toe under the pedal and pull it up when your bleeding. If you added fluid on the bench when you were assembling it like it sounds, then I’m sure no damage was done. Even if you didn’t put fluid in it, hard to believe one dry slide back would do significant damage. More likely cause would be damage during assembly. But pretty simple job right? Seals went in ok? How did the cylinder look? Any wear or pitting?


…and you do know you can adjust rod/pedal height right?

Cheers. Yes, job was straightforward enough, toughest part for me was removing the pin through the pedal. Cylinder looked just fine, couldn't detect any wear with fingernail. I put the rod back exactly as it was, which is at it's longest.

 

[4lex]

Cheers. Yes, job was straightforward enough, toughest part for me was removing the pin through the pedal. Cylinder looked just fine, couldn't detect any wear with fingernail. I put the rod back exactly as it was, which is at it's longest.

So I had a fiddle with the adjusting rod, though I counted the turns as i took it off - you get a lot for your money adjusting that hey. I guess I only turned it about 270deg and the pedal returns much better. Also disconnected the spring from bulkhead to pedal and like the pedal feel a lot better.

All good I thought - but now (since MC overhaul job) I have no cruise. With a carefully angled inspection light I can see the pedal close the switch on the pedal height stop. The connector on the back of the switch seems good, and the brake lights work. I hate a coincidence, but I'm beginning to think something else is to blame for the failure.

I don't think the 96 model HDJ80R has a diagnostic mode that I saw mentioned for the LX variant? Does anyone have the relevant FSM that covers the CCS, the one I have doesn't

Cheers,
Alex.

 

[4lex]

So I had a fiddle with the adjusting rod, though I counted the turns as i took it off - you get a lot for your money adjusting that hey. I guess I only turned it about 270deg and the pedal returns much better. Also disconnected the spring from bulkhead to pedal and like the pedal feel a lot better.

All good I thought - but now (since MC overhaul job) I have no cruise. With a carefully angled inspection light I can see the pedal close the switch on the pedal height stop. The connector on the back of the switch seems good, and the brake lights work. I hate a coincidence, but I'm beginning to think something else is to blame for the failure.

I don't think the 96 model HDJ80R has a diagnostic mode that I saw mentioned for the LX variant? Does anyone have the relevant FSM that covers the CCS, the one I have doesn't

Cheers,
Alex.

I've fixed this. The part of the pedal assembly that contacts the switch has/had a rubber pad that mounted on a 4mm hole in the pedal assembly. That had fallen out, and the switch end was oriented and sized such that it could pass through that mounting hole. I cut down a trim clip to plug the hole and all is good.

 

[-Spike-]

I've fixed this. The part of the pedal assembly that contacts the switch has/had a rubber pad that mounted on a 4mm hole in the pedal assembly. That had fallen out, and the switch end was oriented and sized such that it could pass through that mounting hole. I cut down a trim clip to plug the hole and all is good.

Funny, I've been watching this thread purely out of curiosity as I'll likely never see, let alone own, a manual 80. I never expected to learn anything that I could use on my 80 from it, but I have had to adjust the brake pedal switch in the past to get the cruise working and it's acting up again- I bet I have a similar issue. Thanks for posting this.