Weber carb orientation (1 Viewer)

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I'm installing a '84 2F into my '69 FJ40, and am wondering if I have the Weber carb oriented correctly.

1670597408970.png


The F motor on it also had a Weber carb, but the cable and electric choke wire just don't fit as currently configured.

Is it possible I have it 180 degrees out?
 
It is correct with the float bowl in front.

However, I'm not sure this is the best approach to metering fuel for a 2F.
Yeah, there are several other options I'd like to have, but the task at hand is getting this heap running first.

I'm having trouble getting the throttle cable to make that sharp 90 degrees to run the throttle proper.

IMG_20221209_091251965.jpg


IMG_20221209_091242235.jpg
 
Longer cable might help a bit. I would be calculating the cost of a used Aisin with rebuild kit against the PITA factor (and time) before committing to a Weber. There will likely be more issues than just the cable.
 
I respect your motive(s). Free '82 air cleaner assembly at my place - get a proper insulator and... 2F is so much easier of a manifold and air cleaner to work with, just get the cable adapted.

So, are you open to the idea of using a longer throttle cable? The location for both stock and Weber throttle shafts is the same, they both rotate the same direction. That apparatus in the photo above was intended to mount a ball.

I think you "need" something like this, below. Again, not sure about the time and money investment for "need."


I'd consider grinding off every one of the teeth on the secondary throttle, I bet it would be far closer to the factory Aisan than running it synchronous-two-barrel. I have a 38/38 at home that I might try that with. But serious, you will move the gas pedal half as far compared to the factory carb, because it is like running two carbs when the are set up the way it is.
 
the cable looks plenty long... is the wire pulled out all the way?

if the actual wire has been shortened because it broke or was cut.... then you can just shorten the sheath and reinsert the setscrew end .... looks like you still have the throttle cable anchor/pivit

been running a weber for well over 30 years.... love em

Btw changing the 38/38 to a one barrel will not work out well for you... you can change it to a progressive from synchronized .... but theres alot of playing around with jet sizes to not get dead spots or be flat in mid throttle .... those weber carb idle jets are used throughout the low speed running as well as the part throttle transition if your only using one side correctly then its only supplying half of whats needed... it will not work out for ya
 
I respect your motive(s). Free '82 air cleaner assembly at my place - get a proper insulator and... 2F is so much easier of a manifold and air cleaner to work with, just get the cable adapted.

So, are you open to the idea of using a longer throttle cable? The location for both stock and Weber throttle shafts is the same, they both rotate the same direction. That apparatus in the photo above was intended to mount a ball.

I think you "need" something like this, below. Again, not sure about the time and money investment for "need."


I'd consider grinding off every one of the teeth on the secondary throttle, I bet it would be far closer to the factory Aisan than running it synchronous-two-barrel. I have a 38/38 at home that I might try that with. But serious, you will move the gas pedal half as far compared to the factory carb, because it is like running two carbs when the are set up the way it is.
It came out of a sweet running FJ60 just the way it is set up. Except for my janky throttle cable, which was on the current rig in the current configuration. I have the old carb, btw, with no indication of how that cable somehow linked up with it. Will pry just replace the cable, as the outside rubber is brittle from sitting so long.

Not interested in screwing with the setup as the linkage for an Aisin appears to be super expensive.

Longer cable might help a bit. I would be calculating the cost of a used Aisin with rebuild kit against the PITA factor (and time) before committing to a Weber. There will likely be more issues than just the cable.

The Weber on it was just fine when it was pulled a few months ago from a sweet running '84 FJ60. The cable appears to be too long, if you ask me.

the cable looks plenty long... is the wire pulled out all the way?

if the actual wire has been shortened because it broke or was cut.... then you can just shorten the sheath and reinsert the setscrew end .... looks like you still have the throttle cable anchor/pivit

been running a weber for well over 30 years.... love em

Btw changing the 38/38 to a one barrel will not work out well for you... you can change it to a progressive from synchronized .... but theres alot of playing around with jet sizes to not get dead spots or be flat in mid throttle .... those weber carb idle jets are used throughout the low speed running as well as the part throttle transition if your only using one side correctly then its only supplying half of whats needed... it will not work out for ya

I'm thinking of just buying a new cable, as the rubber housing on this one is brittle and just flakes off when you try to bend the cable.
 
The Weber throttle piece for cable throttle also fits on the end of the Aisan primary throttle; you can run a china carb with cable as long as you mount the cable sheath about the same place. It is far more frustrating to get a cable accelerator to be installed in a linkage type 1F firewall.
 
The Weber throttle piece for cable throttle also fits on the end of the Aisan primary throttle; you can run a china carb with cable as long as you mount the cable sheath about the same place. It is far more frustrating to get a cable accelerator to be installed in a linkage type 1F firewall.
You know, the second phase of this build I just might do that.

For now, I think I have a lash up that will run, thanks to some dinking around and some hardware store springs.

I'm still feeling out about how sharp a turn I'm asking that throttle cable to make to fit it in there.

IMG_20221209_171144035.jpg
 
I was looking at my 38/38 and I was incorrect about its function. I never knew that the throttle blades don't open fully, so it makes more sense than how I portrayed it earlier. I will comment that Weber air cleaner elements get sand blasted, and big holes appear really quick; that and they are like $30 after shipping, or whatever.

I have two or three of the cable throttle anchors, for Hitachi clone carbs. They all use an 8mm shaft iirc, with two flats, so Hitachi, Weber, Aisan can be donors for cable (end) anchors or linkage-type push/pull 1/4" balls. The throttle shaft flats are at the same parallel angle to the throttle blades. However, I thought that a longer cable had it's sheath anchored on the side of the valve cover portion of the carb for much of these installs, either way, a longer cable probably is needed.
 
If you add a cable pull, like Toyota used on carbs from '70 to '72 there is a conflict without having about 1" of rise between the carb and the manifold. If you had an insulator, or the JTO Weber billet adapter block (not two plates unless they are about 1" tall), then you would get clearance. The cable pull needs to swing below the throttle body and the cable needs to be anchored somewhere near the air horn. On a Weber, the absence of the bolts holding the air horn to the bowl makes it harder to anchor that cable sheath on the carb end.
 
If you add a cable pull, like Toyota used on carbs from '70 to '72 there is a conflict without having about 1" of rise between the carb and the manifold. If you had an insulator, or the JTO Weber billet adapter block (not two plates unless they are about 1" tall), then you would get clearance. The cable pull needs to swing below the throttle body and the cable needs to be anchored somewhere near the air horn. On a Weber, the absence of the bolts holding the air horn to the bowl makes it harder to anchor that cable sheath on the carb end.
I have to admit that I don't know the carb language, so let me figure out what those words mean so I can understand this.

I'll try to find some pictures to fix my dumb.

This Weber has an inch worth of spacer (two plates, of course, which had a serious vacuum leak which I "think" I've fixed) when I got it.
 
Cable Pull2.jpg


What the manual calls a "throttle lever" is what I called a "cable pull." Also, there is a spot to mount a return spring, so that is part of it as well. This is the Toyota equivalent for the conversion. This part might drag if your adapter plates are too short, and you are not using the factory insulator akin to that for the F (basically a big riser).

Cable Pull b.jpg


Also needed would be a cable end to anchor it, like above. The red is the bare cable itself. Some metal needs to hold/mount the end of the cable sheath. If you look at SOR website they made something that goes on the valve cover. I could see something attached to the manifold stud, as that is where things are mounted with the other Weber project I have.

I sent you some parts to try stuff with. I'll post pics for Mud to explain the install on a 38/38.
 
View attachment 3189996

What the manual calls a "throttle lever" is what I called a "cable pull." Also, there is a spot to mount a return spring, so that is part of it as well. This is the Toyota equivalent for the conversion. This part might drag if your adapter plates are too short, and you are not using the factory insulator akin to that for the F (basically a big riser).

View attachment 3189995

Also needed would be a cable end to anchor it, like above. The red is the bare cable itself. Some metal needs to hold/mount the end of the cable sheath. If you look at SOR website they made something that goes on the valve cover. I could see something attached to the manifold stud, as that is where things are mounted with the other Weber project I have.

I sent you some parts to try stuff with. I'll post pics for Mud to explain the install on a 38/38.
Thank you very much for that.

I hadn't considered that I could actually run an Aisin carb with my current cable setup.

I have both early and later air cleaner assemblies, and think it would be pretty cool to refinish those and run an Aisin under it.
 
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Regarding the universal throttle lever with multiple holes, is there a certain position to use for best results? I'm working on mine currently and have wondered what the risks/benefits are if you used one position vs another.
 

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