Water piping inder the hood to under the passenger seat.

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Hey fellow 80's aficionados, need help with this one...
There is this heater line that on diagram is labeled 87209B, or part number 8720960301, has two lines almost on each side of the motor near the wall that runs all the way down to the passengers (US) underseat.
Want to replace as maintenance but having a hard time figuring the process, had 2 mechanics back away , one said its easy in one day and another daid has to lower transmission and would take days.
Any feedback?

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Irish Reiver

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I'm not sure it's possible with the engine in situ. I have never tried to replace them so not sure what approach you could take. I seem to recall that it would be one of those "while you're in there" jobs during a head gasket change.
One approach might be to pull the motor mounts and lower the engine (with transmission). This might give you sufficient clearance.
Good luck.
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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Very awkward job but can be a PITA, they rust and leak when you least expect it, I would call it a :banana: job normally as it is not 'tech stuff', but lets go for :banana::banana: as the frustration can drive you insane. On the diesel the pipes run under a heat shied which sits above the exhaust, the absence of your vehicle model in your signature hot helping here. ;)

I do know that once the exhaust has been removed and the heat shield and the drivers seat removed (RHD) to disconnect from the heater, then the captive nuts break off, then the exhaust leaks when you put it back and blah...and blah you get it. I live in Spain so the decision was easy, I binned the lot! Plenty of space for an electric tyre pump now. If you have to have it and have plenty of patience go for it. You are being pushed away by garages because of the awkwardness of the job, not because they can't do it.

Regards

Dave
 
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Hey fellow 80's aficionados, need help with this one...
There is this heater line that on diagram is labeled 87209B, or part number 8720960301, has two lines almost on each side of the motor near the wall that runs all the way down to the passengers (US) underseat.
Want to replace as maintenance but having a hard time figuring the process, had 2 mechanics back away , one said its easy in one day and another daid has to lower transmission and would take days.
Any feedback?

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View attachment 3055176
It is only possible if you drop the transmission on the 1FZ-FE (1996).

I was determined to prove that it could be done and I spent a week replacing all of my coolant lines and hoses.

I was able to replace the PHH hose and pipe in situ. I also replaced the lower rear heater hard lines in situ (and with my WKOR sliders still installed).

I ended up cutting the upper hard lines into many small pieces in order to make clearance for hoses to come down from the top and attach to the lower rear heater hard lines. This was NOT an easy job. I used a sawzall as well as a Dremel with metal cutting wheel on it to get into the tight places.

I could NOT fit 5/8" Gates green stripe hose from the upper connections down to the rear lower pipes. The gap between the firewall and transmission was too narrow. I had to use 1/2" hose the was the cheap stuff from O'Reilly's.

If you decide you want these replaced and drop the transmission, the have your rear main seal replaced and the front pump seal on the transmission. Also do the tail shaft output seal on the transmission and the input seal on the transfer case.

I think this could be done if the head was removed in frame, but it would still be a challenge.
 
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Great information!, I am trying to list possible parts needed and worth replacing while the main procedure is done.
And will consider as previously mentioned, to be careful about leaving exhaust leaks.

Already have the top hoses which are reachable; and this is the diagram I gave to the mechanic so they can anticipate parts for me...

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Someone on the forum mentioned a couple times about wanting to design a rear water heater circuit (pipes/hoses) that would start from the right side of the firewall, eliminating the pipes that wrap over/around the automatic transmission, but AFAIK they've never completed the project.

Maybe Wits End might do it someday??

@NLXTACY
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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Whilst of no interest me but may be a thought? On the RHD system the pipes do run down the right hand side of the firewall and where they exit the lower firewall I don't see it being that hard to utilise the pipes have someone make up a pair of pipes that run under the lower part of the transmission, just in front of the transmission sump and then up to the LHD drivers seat? Whilst I could see it being done with some 1/2" copper pipe and a bender it is not something I would undertake unless a bit of research showed there was demand for it? Agreed it may be something Joey would undertake......not putting him on the spot or anything....well I am really?

I mention the RHD version as the connections at the firewall are available off the shelf making the job easier?

Regards

Dave
 
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Someone on the forum mentioned a couple times about wanting to design a rear water heater circuit (pipes/hoses) that would start from the right side of the firewall, eliminating the pipes that wrap over/around the automatic transmission, but AFAIK they've never completed the project.

Maybe Wits End might do it someday??

@NLXTACY
Yes one of the other folks here was going to make some out of stainless so they wouldn't rot out again. Also make them in multiple sections so they can be installed without dropping the transmission.

Little progress has been made, as life gets in the way.
 
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So a RHD 80 series has different water heater pipe routing to the rear heater??

If so it would be nice if someone with a RHD 80 series could post up either a VIN from a RHD or links to pages showing the rear water heater piping diagram.
 
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Hey fellow 80's aficionados, need help with this one...
There is this heater line that on diagram is labeled 87209B, or part number 8720960301, has two lines almost on each side of the motor near the wall that runs all the way down to the passengers (US) underseat.
Want to replace as maintenance but having a hard time figuring the process, had 2 mechanics back away , one said its easy in one day and another daid has to lower transmission and would take days.
Any feedback?

View attachment 3055175

View attachment 3055176
While you can get the upper hardlines you pictured above out with the head off, you cannot get the rear hardlines out without removing both the transmission and exhaust pipes. I tried once while stripping an 80 entirely for parts, and that was without the engine. I gave up.

FWIW, though, I will never again remove a head with the engine in situ. The amount of work, in steps and time, to remove an engine vs a head is the same (or most nearly so, that it doesn't bear comparison), and you can get so much more done so much easier, that it's a no brainer. Pulling the engine and transmission together is also the way to go, if you pull the engine. Maybe not what you want to hear, and I wouldn't do it just to replace the hardlines, but if there's anything else to do, I'd really consider it.

This said as I just recently went through a head gasket replacement (along with many "while you're in there' tasks"), all the while staring at the rusted rear heater pipes and wishing the entire time I had the engine out...
 

Dave 2000

Not all Land Rovers are useless!
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It's the same way

No definitely not, I have a removed three or four of them, one being my own. The pipes comes from the join on the firewall just left of the steering column. and straight down and under the bulkhead. Yes they are close to the transmission but remember the pipe do not have to cross it, they are then run under a heat shield which is directly above the first silencer on the exhaust and up into the heater assembly.

Regards

Dave
 
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While you can get the upper hardlines you pictured above out with the head off, you cannot get the rear hardlines out without removing both the transmission and exhaust pipes. I tried once while stripping an 80 entirely for parts, and that was without the engine. I gave up.

FWIW, though, I will never again remove a head with the engine in situ. The amount of work, in steps and time, to remove an engine vs a head is the same (or most nearly so, that it doesn't bear comparison), and you can get so much more done so much easier, that it's a no brainer. Pulling the engine and transmission together is also the way to go, if you pull the engine. Maybe not what you want to hear, and I wouldn't do it just to replace the hardlines, but if there's anything else to do, I'd really consider it.

This said as I just recently went through a head gasket replacement (along with many "while you're in there' tasks"), all the while staring at the rusted rear heater pipes and wishing the entire time I had the engine out...
I R/R my rear lower hard lines with both my exhaust in place as well as my sliders and transmission.

I do have the Magnaflow downpipes and cats so my cats are horizontal and smaller.

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Well, that's one more reason to get Magnaflows...
 

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