Washer Motor - Who is good with electrical? (1 Viewer)

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Guys and gals -

Slowly diving in and getting things working on my '82 FJ40. Got pretty much everything functional except for the washer pump that mounts on the reservoir. I pulled it all out...quite a few things stood out. Looks like the plug and wiring attached have been moved and bent quite a bit over the years. There are a few kinks with slightly exposed wiring. Also, one of the leads on the pump itself was corroded and the wire was not connected. I was able to get the wiring off of the pump using my soldering iron and plan on cleaning things up to hopefully get everything operational. My main concern is the wires coming out of the plug...I know there is a way to pull the terminals out of the plug which would help in replacing the wires. Any advice??
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Personally, I would not even mess with the pump because it'. Partially exposed to water. Pump may be stuck, anyhow. Personally I have replaced with used ones but I have also bought them new. But if you want to practice your soldering skills here' what you will need. And as for the broken insulation, clean the area a fine metal brush and a dad of silicon and let dry. You can wrap electrical tape or use heat shrink. You use a heat gun to shrink but use what heat they can come with.

1. Solder, desolder wick and soldering paste, paper towel wet and dry, acid bruch, heat shrink. Alliedelect.com is one place to get this items.
2. Heat the soldering iron, make sure the solder adheres to the soldering tip if not scrape the tip with a screwdriver or sand paper. May have to use some solder paste. Once the soldering tip is clean melt solder onto it. "Bigger blob better the job" does not here. So just a little on the tip.
3. Clean the area you will solder with isopropyl alcohol, acid brush and a paper towel.
However, if you want to remove solder, use solder wick. Just apply the "wick" on top of solder, heat the "wick"....old solder should melt onto the solder wick. There are other ways to remove solder but this works.
4. Once you have some solder on the tip apply it to the connector and at the same time add more solder as it is melting. Its takes very little solder unless its a big joint. This process should take about less than second or a little over.
5. After the solder hardens, apply some alcohol, rub acid brush and then wipe dry with paper towel. You do this to remove the soldering paste which by the way is corrosive which ruin your circuit connection.
6. And before you put your soldering iron away, melt some solder onto tip that way the tip will not oxidize and it will easier to use next time.
 
@Coolerman, he's good with electrical.

Thanks - I am still figuring out who is good with what on the site. Much appreciated
Personally, I would not even mess with the pump because it'. Partially exposed to water. Pump may be stuck, anyhow. Personally I have replaced with used ones but I have also bought them new. But if you want to practice your soldering skills here' what you will need. And as for the broken insulation, clean the area a fine metal brush and a dad of silicon and let dry. You can wrap electrical tape or use heat shrink. You use a heat gun to shrink but use what heat they can come with.

1. Solder, desolder wick and soldering paste, paper towel wet and dry, acid bruch, heat shrink. Alliedelect.com is one place to get this items.
2. Heat the soldering iron, make sure the solder adheres to the soldering tip if not scrape the tip with a screwdriver or sand paper. May have to use some solder paste. Once the soldering tip is clean melt solder onto it. "Bigger blob better the job" does not here. So just a little on the tip.
3. Clean the area you will solder with isopropyl alcohol, acid brush and a paper towel.
However, if you want to remove solder, use solder wick. Just apply the "wick" on top of solder, heat the "wick"....old solder should melt onto the solder wick. There are other ways to remove solder but this works.
4. Once you have some solder on the tip apply it to the connector and at the same time add more solder as it is melting. Its takes very little solder unless its a big joint. This process should take about less than second or a little over.
5. After the solder hardens, apply some alcohol, rub acid brush and then wipe dry with paper towel. You do this to remove the soldering paste which by the way is corrosive which ruin your circuit connection.
6. And before you put your soldering iron away, melt some solder onto tip that way the tip will not oxidize and it will easier to use next time.


I'm good with the soldering portion of this. I really just need to know how to get the actual pins out of the plug in order to completely replace the wires. I do like your idea of repairing them with silicone though so I could possibly try that if I can get it done the other way. Just an FYI, I do plan on testing the pump before I go through all of the soldering trouble lol. The pics above make it look like complete crap - I was able to clean the terminals and the surrounding area up quite a bit
 
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I know this won't help. I was able to remove the wires with a jewelers screwdriver to release the tang on the inside of the plug, at least I thing it was this style connector.
 
I know this won't help. I was able to remove the wires with a jewelers screwdriver to release the tang on the inside of the plug, at least I thing it was this style connector.

Well I was just able to get this moving along I believe! I pulled the rubber grommet out of the back of the plug with a pick tool and then I flipped the plug back over and release each pin from the inside with my straight pick tool by pressing a little locking retainer on them. Kind of a PIA - I hope this is all worth it lol!
 
I spent a couple of hours getting my pump to run, cleaning the overspray off of the plastic tank, and had it really looking and working good. Then, I accidentally stepped on the tank and broke it!! I was devastated until I found out a new one that looks identical to the factory one is only about $25! It comes with everything.
 
I spent a couple of hours getting my pump to run, cleaning the overspray off of the plastic tank, and had it really looking and working good. Then, I accidentally stepped on the tank and broke it!! I was devastated until I found out a new one that looks identical to the factory one is only about $25! It comes with everything.
"I accidentally stepped on the tank and broke it!!" We wouldn't by any chance be related would we?
 
I spent a couple of hours getting my pump to run, cleaning the overspray off of the plastic tank, and had it really looking and working good. Then, I accidentally stepped on the tank and broke it!! I was devastated until I found out a new one that looks identical to the factory one is only about $25! It comes with everything.

Ebay? I'm trying to stick with the OEM stuff first. I really hope I can get this pump working because I can't really seem to find any OEM replacements anywhere
 
I really appreciate that. I'll definitely let you know if it doesn't end up working for whatever reason. I have gotten every other electrical bit to work in this rug thus far so I'm not giving up just yet ;)
 
IIRC, mine was just gunked up from sitting a long time. Once I took it apart and cleaned it up, it started working. Like you, I was determined to keep it original. I fell short on the wiper wash.
 
Haha well it sounds like you just had a bad luck moment for sure! Keeping my fingers crossed that this ugly, corroded pump actually still has some life left in it
 
I tried to save my pump but it was too far gone. I bought a universal pump at auto zone and plumbed it into the stock tank. I think I had to reverse the wires on the plug, but the pump works great now. I used a plastic screw to plug the the old outlet on the tank (green arrow) drilled out old hole and installed the supplied grommet pink arrow) I think the pump was about 12 or 13 dollars. This was on my '75.
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Thanks - I am still figuring out who is good with what on the site. Much appreciated



I'm good with the soldering portion of this. I really just need to know how to get the actual pins out of the plug in order to completely replace the wires. I do like your idea of repairing them with silicone though so I could possibly try that if I can get it done the other way. Just an FYI, I do plan on testing the pump before I go through all of the soldering trouble lol. The pics above make it look like complete crap - I was able to clean the terminals and the surrounding area up quite a bit

Oops, I'm glad some one already resonded to this question. The terminal has a small tab. When the tap is inserted into the casing(connector), it locks in place. I use a small flat screwdriver and insert it on the back side of the connector and feel for the tab and bend it back.

I have a small collection of this connectors I salvaged from the junkyard in case the connector became damaged by me. I think coolerman had a source on the terminals when he was building/repairing wire harnesses years back.
 
I actually ordered a set of the connectors off of Amazon because I didn't think I could get the wire out of the terminals and put another back in without seriously doing some damage to them. I ordered the 6.3mm Crimp connector Non insulated. The biggest thing is that I don't have an extra harness laying around to replicate the factory wire colors
 
@RAGINGMATT helped me fix/replace the washer pump on my ‘83 HJ47.

He provided me with a new OEM motor and a partial harness. Great resource for tech questions, too.
 
@RAGINGMATT helped me fix/replace the washer pump on my ‘83 HJ47.

He provided me with a new OEM motor and a partial harness. Great resource for tech questions, too.

Thanks! I will keep that in mind. I spoke to Matt last week about a choke cable - he's super nice and knowledgable for sure
 

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