Washer bottle rubbing - 295/70/18 (1 Viewer)

[fatherwalsh11]

Hi all,

I am running into some pretty annoying rubbing in the driver side wheel well on my washer bottle. I have searched high and low for a relocation kit but cannot seem to find one for the 100series. Seems they are out there for the 80. Two questions:

1) Is there a kit? If so, please send
2) Has anyone come up with a different solution and fixed this? If so, information would be much appreciated.

 

[fatherwalsh11]

Pics

 

[saucebox]

Body lift.

Or, just trim that black cover piece. @Brandon Ryder I think did a writeup on the pinch weld mod and includes that. Or I'm remembering wrong.

Edit: this is the one. how to trim fenders AKA pinch weld mod

 

[fatherwalsh11]

Body lift.

Or, just trim that black cover piece. @Brandon Ryder I think did a writeup on the pinch weld mod and includes that. Or I'm remembering wrong.

Edit: this is the one. how to trim fenders AKA pinch weld mod

Awesome - thank you - I will trim the fender and see if that works!

 

[CorporalClegg]

I was rubbing my 285 75 18s I removed the black plastic and took a heat gun to the tank. No more issues I'm running factory 60et wheels.

 

[nukegoat]

I relocated mine. You just need to re-route a few hoses and some wires. I got a cheapie universal bottle and drilled a few holes in it to accommodate the grommets from the factory toyota fluid pumps. It has far less capacity but it works fine.

 

[Brandon Ryder]

Hi all,

I am running into some pretty annoying rubbing in the driver side wheel well on my washer bottle. I have searched high and low for a relocation kit but cannot seem to find one for the 100series. Seems they are out there for the 80. Two questions:

1) Is there a kit? If so, please send
2) Has anyone come up with a different solution and fixed this? If so, information would be much appreciated.

With your tire size all you probably need is to trim or even remove the washer bottle cover. If it still rubs it will only be in extreme situations.

 

[CorporalClegg]

I relocated mine. You just need to re-route a few hoses and some wires. I got a cheapie universal bottle and drilled a few holes in it to accommodate the grommets from the factory toyota fluid pumps. It has far less capacity but it works fine.

Where did you put it? Now I have extra space where ahc fluid once sat.

 

[nukegoat]

Where did you put it? Now I have extra space where ahc fluid once sat.

Yeah basically there. It's in my build thread

 

[fatherwalsh11]

Just removed the washer bottle cover - worked like a charm! Thanks everyone! Now Im gonna do a bit of cranking on the torsion bars cause the back of my sliders are 20 inches from the ground and the front of the slide is 18. I'd like this a bit more flat.

 

[nukegoat]

Just removed the washer bottle cover - worked like a charm! Thanks everyone! Now Im gonna do a bit of cranking on the torsion bars cause the back of my sliders are 20 inches from the ground and the front of the slide is 18. I'd like this a bit more flat.

We will see you next week asking about CV wear

 

[fatherwalsh11]

We will see you next week asking about CV wear

Huh why? The boots I just put on are brand new. Also, cranked the t bars are I have officially said adios to any rubbing. Feels great.

 

[nukegoat]

Huh why? The boots I just put on are brand new. Also, cranked the t bars are I have officially said adios to any rubbing. Feels great.

Because you're accelerating wear on them.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Upstate gets really bad but on LI we aren't salting the roads every other day. I really didn't want to get another GM, they certainly hold up better to the rot but everything else stops working.

Consider how fast that axle is spinning. Any tiny increase in the angle of the joint increases wear. It's easy to lift the normal ride height a small amount in increase the flex in that boot and joint by 100%.

Any time the torsion bars are cranked to lift the normal ride height you should consider a diff drop kit on these rigs. A set of OEM axles, flanges and associated hardware is ~$1k minimum and solid days labor if you're quick (not to mention ball joint wear and tear during the abuse of R&R on those). A diff drop kit is like $200 and takes an hour to install. (If you already have a diff drop kit installed, then I'm sorry for preaching! )