It's hard to say that brakes are covered since they're normal wear & tear (like oils); but you've just bought this, check out the CPO qualifications list - brakes should be on this. Use it as an argument to the service departments. My dealer haven't refuse any item that I pointed out yet (had them done the front axle service - approx. $1400.00 )
Ok this is my opinion, and I'm dumb so you dont have to listen to me, but I do agree with frank, check with the dealer first if its covered then goodie, if not give them a real hard time about it. If all else fails, I would upgrade the brake rotors and put some nice ceramic pads in. My way of lookin at it is, instead of buying oem rotors for i'm guessing about $100 though c-dan (sorry man, again just my opinion, not trying to take away buisness) i would get a nice set of slotted rotors and some real nice pads. I think brakes are always a really nice thing to upgrade. I like to use the little ricers for this example, because they all do it. They dump tons and tons of money into their car trying to make it go faster, but they still stop the same. So, when your going faster and you still stop the same, you end up crashing into things. I also like being able to hit the brakes and know that I am going to come to a screaching hault, not hoping that my brakes dont heat up too much as to where i cant stop. (happened before in friends car. SCARY!) Again this is just my opinion and does not reflect anyone else on this board.
Just for comparison, OEM rotors for a 93-97 80 list for $99.60 and a "Smart shopper" can find them for about 75 bucks a rattle.
A possible isssue I see with using drilled or slotted rotors is the potential to pick up rocks or other foreign matter when off road.
I gotta think that can't be good.
I'm sure all would agree that it is critical to use quality parts, OEM or otherwise, when doing brake work. One area where NO substitutions should be made is in the fasteners related to brake parts. (IMO)
Junk is a little more direct than I would be... but he has a very good point.
I think a calm, and persuasive meeting with the salesman/sales manager (with your documentation) would win you a good outcome. One of the things a used car sales manager will truly be worried about would be the consequences of his refusing to do a proper brake service on a vehicle that was examined by his mechanic and deemed to be in need of brake work.
Just ask him politely and see what he says. If you don't get the answer you want then politely request a meeting with the GM and plead your case with him. I really think you'll get the brakes fixed by the store that sold you the truck.
Dealer service guy who did the inspection (another dealer from sale one) measured the runout and got 8 thous in front and 1 thou in rear. Recommends changing both front and rear.
[For your enjoyment: contacted the salesman (who is also the sales manager apparently) and he weaseled out big time, made all sorts of vague promises but refused to put anything in writing. Basically tried to stall us till the return period has expired. So tomorrow, back we go and if they give us too much grief, all hell breaks loose... ]
Anyway, waddaya think about 8thous and 1 thou? The local service guy flat out said they don't turn rotors on a LC.
Take it back, and don't appear to be bluffing - be willing to walk away from the truck. Sales types can smell a bluff a mile away so don't expect to win that way. Convince them you're "unwinding" (use that term, too) the deal and they'll play ball.
Did PB and UW the deal. These guys didn't want to fix the brakes and basically told me they would just turn around and resell the car without fixing it! Great ain't it.
Then the fun began. You know all the stereotypes about used car salesmen, well, it was that and worse. These guys started to lie and try to con us any way they could.
Finally, had to put a stop on the check, and argue for 3 hours to get a statement that they would give us a refund...
My wife was a tad stressed after the ordeal...
Learned another lesson today.
Nothing personal, but take it from someone who's worked on the factory side of the auto business. Never sign papers to purchase a vehicle you know has problems unless they're clearly noted on the paperwork and the notation says the dealer accepts responsiblity for fixing them. Technically, they're correct - you bought a used car and in the condition you drove it off. Advice for all is that the correct time to do an inspection is BEFORE you decide whether you want it or not. I think you made a good call on this one, Eric.
thanks. Personally, I would not have "bought" it without inspecting it first, but somebody close had other ideas....
There'll be more.
This 2000 rode pretty rough on the freeway actually, I think because of the General tires. I did not notice that with the Michelin OEM tires.
what an ordeal!