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wanting to buy an fj40

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by lndcrsr, Dec 17, 2003.

  1. lndcrsr

    lndcrsr

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    Very new to this forum thing so bear with me...
    I'm looking to buy an fj40. Been wanting one for a long time but living in Western pennsylvania you don't see them on the road (or even parked). Got some money saved up and nows the time.
    I've been checking the internet site for information and found a lot. Also watching ebay to see what various years and condiitons go for there. I'm leaning towards one newer than 75. I want the 4 speed on the floor and an 2f engine. I read up about the typical rust spots (just learned today about the area on the frame near the back). Any advice, additional things to check for, price ranges, good and bad about fiberglass tubs, etc would be appreceated.
    Thanks in advance
    Chris
     
  2. Perfect Obsession

    Perfect Obsession

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    Welcome :beer:

    A plus: Electronic ignition, original smog devices (or minimized by a qualified mechanic or shop), front manual hubs, manual lock or limited slip rear differential, ...

    To check: intake vacuum leak, exhaust gasket, cylinder compression test, lubricated front diff (left and right wheel whist ?), oil leaks, ...

    I like my Fiji 8)
     
  3. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

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    Look at the front wheels on the inside. If there is a bunch a crap on the inside that looks like gunk, the trunion seals are leaking. Also check underneath for leaks around the oil pan, transmission and transfer case. If these items are OK, the engine sounds good, rust is minimal and passes the test mentioned above, then you have a good start. Still expect to put some money into it!
     
  4. Yo_Han

    Yo_Han

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    The bad bout fiberglass tubs, is it's characteristics if you get in a decent fenderbender. Good quality fiberglass tub will take alot, but when it's taken to the max it shatters, which is not good. But the good thing is it will never rust. The guy i got my glass tub from rolled his 2X and no problems...once offroadin and the other on pavement.

    Another thing to consider is disc brakes, believe they came factory from '77 up, please correct me fellas, if i'm wrong on that.

    Happy hunting!
    Yo Han
     
  5. theo

    theo

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    There are 2 in the paper here now. '72 runs great, $1700/obo, '79, nice, $5400/obo.

    I've been meaning to look at them but I'm afraid I'd bring one home with me! :D
     
  6. IDave

    IDave

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    [quote author=theo link=board=1;threadid=8895;start=msg77043#msg77043 date=1071701806]
    There are 2 in the paper here now. '72 runs great, $1700/obo, '79, nice, $5400/obo.

    I've been meaning to look at them but I'm afraid I'd bring one home with me! :D
    [/quote]

    It's your wife you're afraid of, Theo..... ;)
     
  7. shameless

    shameless

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    Just remember - upgrades will not change the character of the FJ and the results could surprise you. You can spend a lot of money without getting the results you hoped for.

    When you can, wait until things break before you fix them. Buy a good one so you can embrace the truck the way it is!
     
  8. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Start with something clean, so be patient...yah, I know..but it is the truth. It is easier to work on something clean, than try to resurect something that should have been in the smelter years ago...take it from one who knows...wait for a disc brake, four-speed truck if that is what you want.

    If it has had body work done to it, and they are claiming "no rust",
    get underneath it, and look at all the seams and body mounts, everywhere. These areas will tell you the amount of body rot that is, or was on the vehicle.

    Go look at as many trucks as you can before diving into one. See if there is someone in your area that knows these trucks, and talk to them. Most Land Cruiser people are approchable, and understand this affliction.. :)


    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  9. theo

    theo

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    [quote author=IDave link=board=1;threadid=8895;start=msg77046#msg77046 date=1071702146]
    It's your wife you're afraid of, Theo..... ;)
    [/quote]

    Now how do you like that? If I didn't have to finish washing the dishes and feeding the dog and doing my laundry I'd give you a tongue lashing son. :-[
     
  10. alf

    alf

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    You need to go look at the two for sale in the paper. Just go without any possible thought of buying them. You need to go and look. Get a feel for the vehicle. Crawl underneath, in and around the beast. Take a screwdriver and tap here and there. Bringa refigerator magnet and check for bondo. A flash light helps alot as well. Ask the owner questions and try to learn more. I looked at a bunch of 40's before buying my 79. I learned a lot along the way. If you are reading this forum you are already ahead of the class just keep doing your homework and don't get to excited. When you find the right one you will know it just don't let it be the first or second one you look at.

    Out

    Alf
     
  11. shameless

    shameless

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    Second that on the cruiser community - everybody seems anxious to help - sorta like "we're all in this together".

    My bj40 was the first I really seriously looked at, and I was a goner as soon as we took her out for a test drive. Though it probably would have turned out the same way, I definitely should've looked at a few just to get some hands-on.

    Rust-free seems very very rare, so just figure on fighting an intelligent battle against it. I recently decided to keep on fighting instead of going to an aluminum tub because I couldn't bear risking her feeling like a different truck(she ain't too far gone anyway).
     
  12. HeepKrushr

    HeepKrushr

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    Welcome

    I think that disc brakes came as early as 76. Good luck finding a rust free PA truck. They can be found, but they are likely restored and pricey. A little rust never killed anyone - it can be effectively dealt with depending on where the bad spots are. POR 15 really works, just be sure to cover it with some type of paint because UV rays will break it down. I use black rustoleum and it seems to work fine - nothing has flaked so far. That being said, there is a point at which rust has taken over and its not worth messing with, unless you like to weld and have the time to replace bad metal. IF there are any really bad rust spots on the frame that aren't surface rust, just walk away because it will just break your heart.

    good luck
    Krushr
     
  13. megolfer

    megolfer

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    I bought the first one that I looked at and never looked back. It was pretty much rust free, had 33 bfg muds on it, chevy 35 conversion, Power steering, Brakes were just done, new card, headers, detroit locker in the rear, hard top, nice wheels, tilt column, full harnesses, stock 3 speed tranny and transfer, brush guard in the front. It is a 72 and piad $5000 for it. That seems to be the going rate in central california. I called on a couple in the paper for about $4000 but they described them to me and they needed fender, or some sort of work.

    Since them I have put a sm465, $800 upgrate, four core radiator, In the process of doing a spring over with four wheel brakes, aussie locker up front, all-pro bilfs and 4340 inners, ford shock towers for longer travel. They are a money pit, and if you plan to wheel it theey you will alwyas be going these kind of upgrades. I have had mine for a little over a year and it has been down becasue of upgrades more than I have drove it.
     
  14. Archengine

    Archengine

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    I went and looked at dozens in and around Ct, Ma and Ny before finding my current one. She was covered in snow on the top of a long driveway, sitting oh so pretty. She had some problems, but for the money I had to spend, she was a screaming deal with all the rest of the custom parts that were already done to her. I still remember climbing into her the first time, so warm and soft, enjoying the moment for so long. We hung out for a few hours, drank a few glasses of wine and then I had to get home. I took her in, and shes cost me everything since then.








    OHHH, wait, we were talking about cruisers!!!!
     
  15. dinkleberry

    dinkleberry

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    The last two I've bought out west and had shipped east. Very little rust.

    Anything out here under $10k is gonna have some rust.

    Shipping can sometimes be a pain in the ass though.
     
  16. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    I bought the first one I ever looked at.
    No upgrades, no modifications, and no rust other than two holes in the rear quarters.
    By western standards I probably paid a little much at $6250. On the bright side, I am doing all the mods myself, and I don't ever have to deal with any s***ting PO work. (cept the paint job ;()
     
  17. residualboulders

    residualboulders

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    Good tips here. Patience is a good key I think. Having owned one before, and seeing what my brother had to deal with on the 40 he bought, I knew what I was willing to put up with and what I wasn't I also knew what I wanted. I looked for a year before buying the '79 I have. I was careful because once I found one, I planned on keeping it a while - always regretted selling my first.

    Search for the 79 and newer if that is what you want, but I'd keep an eye out for 76 and newer too, they still had the newer brakes, just not geared quite as high. You may find a deal that you don't want to pass up. I had just as much love for my 76 as I do for my 79.
     
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