Want to ditch the stock carb and smog BS!!!

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Ok, had a previous post about my fj60 sitting for 6-7 years. I had it running, then it started acting up during idle and was all over the place. I am sure the fuel is bad. I dumped seafoam into the tank but I think it was too far gone. I can smell how bad it is just standing near the truck. I have replaced the fuel filter and pump, and did a very mild rebuild/cleaning on the carb. The 2 slow jets have cracks down the shafts of them so they need to be replaced. I learned while doing all of this that I hate this carb and all the stupid vacuum hoses and diaphrams. I have worked on many motorcycle carbs and some truck carbs and never have I haded a setup like this one. Anyways, now that thats off my chest, I want to desmog and get rid of as much of the bs smog system as I can, and I want a simple aftermarket carb. I want a trollhole carb but he is out until mid-july and I want this done before then. Does anyone have any carb suggestions? there seems to be a 50/50 resopnse on the webber carbs. Thanks. Oh, if anyone has a trollhole carb laying around that they want to part with, certianly feel free to chime in.
 
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My feeling on this is that a carb is a carb. If it is tuned right....it runs right! Webber carbs are great....when they are set up and adjusted correctly....just like any other carb!!!
 
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If you are versed in carb tuning and understand motorcycle carbs, you would feel right at home with a Weber. Properly tuned, they run exceptionally well and NEVER flood when the float is properly set. The 38/38 seems to be the best for the 2F. There are plenty of 32/36 progressives out there, but they don't work as well due to the small size. I ran a 2f with a Weber, a header and a desmog for many years as a daily driver.
 
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That's odd. Half a day went by and I didn't need my flame suit for being a heretical Aisin hater. I am, by the way.


Yeah, it seems like people either hate them, or they love them. Mine not operating, is really my own fault. I should have droped my gas tank but didnt so I kept clogging the jets. Not only did they clog, but I guess the high pressure with the clog caused the jets to crack. I really want to get the trollhole carb. It seems to be by far the most simplistic and cost efffective way to go. The troll carb is about 4 weeks out and I really dont want to wait that long so I may end up getting a webber.
 
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how much $ to switch to a Weber? For $300 plus shipping one way, you can have Jim C. rebuild. Plus, he will talk you through the desmog done right. The Jim C. rebuild is plug and play. After that, if it ain't running right, it ain't the carb.
 
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how much $ to switch to a Weber? For $300 plus shipping one way, you can have Jim C. rebuild. Plus, he will talk you through the desmog done right. The Jim C. rebuild is plug and play. After that, if it ain't running right, it ain't the carb.

x2... Best bang for your buck imho...
 
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how much $ to switch to a Weber? For $300 plus shipping one way, you can have Jim C. rebuild. Plus, he will talk you through the desmog done right. The Jim C. rebuild is plug and play. After that, if it ain't running right, it ain't the carb.


The trollhole carb is basically a stock carb without any smog ports or diaphrams, and its only 225.00. I have considered the Jimc route but again I will be facing a 4-6 week turn around time. If I am going to wait tht long I will wait for the new trollhole carb. I guess I need to learn to have some patience, afterall there is plenty to do to the truck while waiting for the carb to come in.
 
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The desmog part is simple. Strip it all off and plug the holes. Gut the smog pump and use it for a tensioner. You need vacuum advance from a ported source on the carb, a fuel line, PCV and a crankcase breather, period. Make sure your vacuum advance diaphrams on the distributor are tight and hold vacuum; they tend to deteriorate with time. Headers help, run a fluid heat riser for cold weather if you experience that in your area. Honestly, you do that and get it tuned in well, you will run circles around stock Cruisers.
 
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IMHO. The only mixer that's better off road than a stock carb is TBI. ALL other carbs tend to flood quickly even at very shallow lean angles and will reward you with even worse gas mileage. Headers are for high perfomance motors, which a 2F isn't. The additional underhood heat will not only cook your feet, damage all underhood rubber products and they also tend to leak. Its hardly worth the extra 5 hp they give you unless you enjoy suffering.

The only smog device that zaps away some power is the EGR valve. Everything else sucks zero HP away from your F/2F. You have to face some hard facts of the F series engine. Its as reliable as an anvil, but will never be a performance engine. If performance is your main goal, install a stock 250 HP GM crate motor with a TBI, because it will cost you 3 times the amount of the V8 swap to make a 2F produce the same HP number.

Or you can just tune your F/2F to run its best and just enjoy the fact that no matter what, it will always get you home.
 
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So, you've let yr rig sit for 6yrs, tried to run it w/ on-board fuel... ... sumptin about jets, and a different carb should fix it.

Do I win a prize? If not, ask Atticus for help, he loves language like yours....




FWIW, both my 84 60's pass emissions, no prob, no engine mds. 11 and 13 mpg on 265k and 206k...
 
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IMHO. The only mixer that's better off road than a stock carb is TBI. ALL other carbs tend to flood quickly even at very shallow lean angles and will reward you with even worse gas mileage. Headers are for high perfomance motors, which a 2F isn't. The additional underhood heat will not only cook your feet, damage all underhood rubber products and they also tend to leak. Its hardly worth the extra 5 hp they give you unless you enjoy suffering.

The only smog device that zaps away some power is the EGR valve. Everything else sucks zero HP away from your F/2F. You have to face some hard facts of the F series engine. Its as reliable as an anvil, but will never be a performance engine. If performance is your main goal, install a stock 250 HP GM crate motor with a TBI, because it will cost you 3 times the amount of the V8 swap to make a 2F produce the same HP number.

Or you can just tune your F/2F to run its best and just enjoy the fact that no matter what, it will always get you home.

I have no hopes of this being a performance motor, and never had any plans of getting a performance header. I decided to wait for the trollhole carb. It is basically a stock carb w/o any additional vacuum ports.
 
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So, you've let yr rig sit for 6yrs, tried to run it w/ on-board fuel... ... sumptin about jets, and a different carb should fix it.

Do I win a prize? If not, ask Atticus for help, he loves language like yours....
QUOTE]


Yes, you win a prize. I did expect to get a vehicle that was sitting for 6 years to run perfectly with ony a new carb installed.

Why even post something like this? 1st off, I did not let it sit for six years, the po did. I just bought it. The extent of running the truck was to drive it around the block, and be sure it shifted through all the gears. I am replacing the t-case, so it would be nice to know if I have tranny problems as well. I was fully aware of the condition of fuel. I'm really not sure what the language comment is about. I will be the first to admit my grammar and spelling are both pretty poor, but certianly not worth an a-hole comment. Again, not really sure of the purpose of this comment. You certianly were of no help. Thanks.

To all others, your help is much appreciated. Thank you all for your opinions and help.
 
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So what makes the weber so much better?




Really?

Vs a properly tuned stock carb?

I'm a Weber fan for a few reasons. First, they are uber simple. Second, unlike some other after-market carbs, they do not flood and they need no modifications in that regard. Third, they can give great performance because they are easily tuned and parts are relatively easy to get. It has been my experience many times over, that a 2F with a Weber, no smog junk and a header will out-run a stock engine quite easily. All of this assumes that the user knows how to tune a carb and has the requisite experience to know what symptoms mean what, etc. Lacking that, it would be a nightmare to start from scratch with any carb.
 

Mace

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I'm a Weber fan for a few reasons. First, they are uber simple. Second, unlike some other after-market carbs, they do not flood and they need no modifications in that regard. Third, they can give great performance because they are easily tuned and parts are relatively easy to get. It has been my experience many times over, that a 2F with a Weber, no smog junk and a header will out-run a stock engine quite easily. All of this assumes that the user knows how to tune a carb and has the requisite experience to know what symptoms mean what, etc. Lacking that, it would be a nightmare to start from scratch with any carb.

You mean a fully smogged cruiser vs a webber on a non smogged truck? Or both in the same smog condition?

The problem with most of the "New Carb old Carb" arguments are the same as the shackle reversal arguments. You get people comparing an old setup that was far from optimal to a new much better setup.

The fastest 2F I have ever been in (barring any forced injection or fuel injection) had a stock carb on it and was tuned very well. FWIW
 

klinetime574

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The fastest 2F I have ever been in (barring any forced injection or fuel injection) had a stock carb on it and was tuned very well. FWIW

What made the 2F "fast"?

Gearing can make any 2F accelerate quickly. If I had 4.88's I could break my 33's loose easily. But with my 3.73's I can't.

I agree the Weber is simpler, but comparing the two isn't really fair because there are too many other factors to how "fast" a Landcruiser is.
 

Mace

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What made the 2F "fast"?

Gearing can make any 2F accelerate quickly. If I had 4.88's I could break my 33's loose easily. But with my 3.73's I can't.

I agree the Weber is simpler, but comparing the two isn't really fair because there are too many other factors to how "fast" a Landcruiser is.

Only to a certain point. Go shove it in low range and see how much rubber you can burn..


Even HP and Torque numbers are relative. There is no good litmus test without doing a side by side comparison with new parts on the exact same motor. Which will be hard to do because nobody wants to drop the coin.
 

klinetime574

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Even HP and Torque numbers are relative. There is no good litmus test without doing a side by side comparison with new parts on the exact same motor. Which will be hard to do because nobody wants to drop the coin.

Agreed.


And about the burning rubber, I really don't want to :D

My tires are holding up pretty well, I need to put more money in my motor! haha
 

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