- Year
- 2000
- Vehicle Model
- 100 Series
- Location
- United States
- Mileage
- 223500
- Color
- Beige
$8,500.00 is just a starting point, open reasonable offers
I purchased this 2000 in El Paso, TX in 2014 with 146k miles. It spent the first 15 years there. Then we had it in south central Missouri for four years and I relocated to Kansas this past summer. I am the third owner. It is a May of 2000 build date. My minimum 65 mile a day commute is just stupid to keep using so much gas and so many miles, I need a forth car like I need a forth child, so old crusty is hopefully going to find a new home, and I'm going to get another TDI to drive, and am keeping my LX570.
New Toyota steering rack March of 2016, and new outer tie rods.
Rebuilt front differential approximately same time.
I replaced the timing belt, water pump, fan bracket, thermostat and all associated pulleys at 194k miles December of 2017.
Optima 27F yellow top is from 2017 I think. May 2018 full transmission fluid exchange. Brake fluid flush.
New 275/70R18 K02's
May to June of 2019 time frame new front wheel bearings and hardware passenger side Napa "new"cv axle, original Toyota axle outer joint was bad.
New Toyota radiator and hoses.
Napa eclipse reman front calipers, house pads and premium rotors.
November 2019 to present-
O'Reilly reman rear calipers associated hardware. Centric premium rear rotors.
Centric PQ PRO front(Napa ones from earlier in summer gave off tons off brake dust) and rear pads. Centric parking brake shoes, and all new ebrake drum hardware.
Rebuilt the front differential again because I had to replace a weeping pinion seal 60k miles after I rebuilt it almost four years prior, did the most bone head lazy and expensive mistake I have made in a while, didn't set the preload correctly and the messed up the pinion bearings. Rebuilt the front differential March of 2020, new bearings, ring and pinion and factory seals from cruiser outfitters. Live and learn I guess. So both differentials and transfer case have fresh fluid again. New Napa cv axle for the drivers side for good measure. New OEM front turn signal housings.
Currently has an older Alpine blue tooth deck, amp bypass. JL Audio 6.5" component speakers in the front doors, JL audio 6.5" two way speakers in the rear doors, a cheapo amp under passenger seat wired to a 8" sealed subwoofer box.
Spector offroad front seat covers. Carpet is not great, could be replaced. Both front seats need leather replaced, passenger side does have a rip.
Suspension is a hodge podge, and I think it rides great.
Fox 2.0s up front. Older Icon 2.0's out back. Swayaway torsion bars, Iron man rear springs. Now defunct Man-a-fre 80 series extended sway bar links(before any vendors here were making them specifically for the 100). Trail tailor upper and lower rear control arms. Not installed front sway bar, comes with the truck.
Not pictured but comes with the sale- front Toughdog 53mm Ralph shocks that were previously installed on this truck. Set of OEM shocks with maybe 5k miles on them.
Reman starter in box still. Original front upper control arms. Drivers side third row seat. Original cv axles for both sides.
The front bumper is what it is. I originally just made the winch mount to fit behind factory bumper cover. Lost an argument one time out cutting firewood in the Mark Twain National forest, no more bumper cover, and made the horrible bumper that it has on the front off of the winch cradle. Houses a old Warn M15000lbs winch. The winch motor and four solenoids in the control box are approximately a year old and are both Warn parts. The only recovery equipment included is the winch controller.
I made the sliders, they are welded on.
I made the rear bumper, kind of based on a few different versions seen on here. It uses 10 factory M14x1.5mm captured nuts in the rear frame. Has a 4x4labs spindle, and the swing arm is from a H1 that I modified a bit.
The exterior paint is okay, needs touched up again for small chips and there is rub spot from gulf states fender flares that I took off years ago that is pictured that needs touched up but that is the only visible rust.
The under carriage has only light surface rust in a few areas largely from from gravel being kicked up, and mostly only on the sliders and rear bumper. I extensively applied fluid film every winter.
This is lengthy but I believe in being honest about the vehicle. I am sure I missed some stuff. It is for sale locally and is my daily driver. Asking $8500. or best offer. Title is in my name and I have it.
I purchased this 2000 in El Paso, TX in 2014 with 146k miles. It spent the first 15 years there. Then we had it in south central Missouri for four years and I relocated to Kansas this past summer. I am the third owner. It is a May of 2000 build date. My minimum 65 mile a day commute is just stupid to keep using so much gas and so many miles, I need a forth car like I need a forth child, so old crusty is hopefully going to find a new home, and I'm going to get another TDI to drive, and am keeping my LX570.
New Toyota steering rack March of 2016, and new outer tie rods.
Rebuilt front differential approximately same time.
I replaced the timing belt, water pump, fan bracket, thermostat and all associated pulleys at 194k miles December of 2017.
Optima 27F yellow top is from 2017 I think. May 2018 full transmission fluid exchange. Brake fluid flush.
New 275/70R18 K02's
May to June of 2019 time frame new front wheel bearings and hardware passenger side Napa "new"cv axle, original Toyota axle outer joint was bad.
New Toyota radiator and hoses.
Napa eclipse reman front calipers, house pads and premium rotors.
November 2019 to present-
O'Reilly reman rear calipers associated hardware. Centric premium rear rotors.
Centric PQ PRO front(Napa ones from earlier in summer gave off tons off brake dust) and rear pads. Centric parking brake shoes, and all new ebrake drum hardware.
Rebuilt the front differential again because I had to replace a weeping pinion seal 60k miles after I rebuilt it almost four years prior, did the most bone head lazy and expensive mistake I have made in a while, didn't set the preload correctly and the messed up the pinion bearings. Rebuilt the front differential March of 2020, new bearings, ring and pinion and factory seals from cruiser outfitters. Live and learn I guess. So both differentials and transfer case have fresh fluid again. New Napa cv axle for the drivers side for good measure. New OEM front turn signal housings.
Currently has an older Alpine blue tooth deck, amp bypass. JL Audio 6.5" component speakers in the front doors, JL audio 6.5" two way speakers in the rear doors, a cheapo amp under passenger seat wired to a 8" sealed subwoofer box.
Spector offroad front seat covers. Carpet is not great, could be replaced. Both front seats need leather replaced, passenger side does have a rip.
Suspension is a hodge podge, and I think it rides great.
Fox 2.0s up front. Older Icon 2.0's out back. Swayaway torsion bars, Iron man rear springs. Now defunct Man-a-fre 80 series extended sway bar links(before any vendors here were making them specifically for the 100). Trail tailor upper and lower rear control arms. Not installed front sway bar, comes with the truck.
Not pictured but comes with the sale- front Toughdog 53mm Ralph shocks that were previously installed on this truck. Set of OEM shocks with maybe 5k miles on them.
Reman starter in box still. Original front upper control arms. Drivers side third row seat. Original cv axles for both sides.
The front bumper is what it is. I originally just made the winch mount to fit behind factory bumper cover. Lost an argument one time out cutting firewood in the Mark Twain National forest, no more bumper cover, and made the horrible bumper that it has on the front off of the winch cradle. Houses a old Warn M15000lbs winch. The winch motor and four solenoids in the control box are approximately a year old and are both Warn parts. The only recovery equipment included is the winch controller.
I made the sliders, they are welded on.
I made the rear bumper, kind of based on a few different versions seen on here. It uses 10 factory M14x1.5mm captured nuts in the rear frame. Has a 4x4labs spindle, and the swing arm is from a H1 that I modified a bit.
The exterior paint is okay, needs touched up again for small chips and there is rub spot from gulf states fender flares that I took off years ago that is pictured that needs touched up but that is the only visible rust.
The under carriage has only light surface rust in a few areas largely from from gravel being kicked up, and mostly only on the sliders and rear bumper. I extensively applied fluid film every winter.
This is lengthy but I believe in being honest about the vehicle. I am sure I missed some stuff. It is for sale locally and is my daily driver. Asking $8500. or best offer. Title is in my name and I have it.
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