WAKE THE DEAD! LT1/460E swap help (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 14, 2007
Threads
20
Messages
63
Location
Greensboro, North Carolina
I just bought a 96 Hearse w/57K powered by a LT1 and 460E in it. I plan on swapping it into my wife's bone stock 89 FJ62 w/190K on it. The current motor has a burnt valve and is very tired. I have read various bits and pieces on here about some 62's w/a LT1 in them. I certainly would appreciate any and all help and advice on the swap and hookups. I would like to use the AC and cruise control currently on the LT1. Can anyone help me out with what parts I will need and techniques or tricks to help it all go smoothly?
HearseSamller.jpg
 
The 1996 will be an OBDII computer. Give Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters a call for the Downey adapters, etc. and dont forget the LT1 aluminum radiator by Downey with the steam vent (if your LT1 has it). You will also need the Downey "thin" front driveline to clear the 4L60e. Send out your wiring harness to get it "stripped", and have VATS removed. LT1wiring can help with that for a good price (good work too, and will reprogram it with your new tyre size).
 
check out some of the install threads on the forum about V-8 swaps. You might want to see what type of exhaust manifolds will work or if you want to run block hugger headers. Ask plenty of questions of whomever you get to do the PCM programming and if you buy an aftermarket engine harness. Talk to the PCM guys first to get their recomendations.

Keep any and every part off the GM vehicle until you make sure you have everything like you want on your 60. I was looking to buying a caprice or roadmaster with the TBI engine when I fell into this 5.7 vortec....

I would be concerned about the "opti-spark" setup on the LT1 that sits behind the waterpump low on the front of the engine and its potential exposure to water and mud.
 
Did you get a good deal on the hearse? only 57K miles...man that's a good deal I'm sure.
 
The optispark is an easy issue to deal with IF it ever becomes an issue...
 
now you need a high top on the 62 :censor::hmm::meh:
 
The 1996 will be an OBDII computer. Give Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters a call for the Downey adapters, etc. and dont forget the LT1 aluminum radiator by Downey with the steam vent (if your LT1 has it). You will also need the Downey "thin" front driveline to clear the 4L60e. Send out your wiring harness to get it "stripped", and have VATS removed. LT1wiring can help with that for a good price (good work too, and will reprogram it with your new tyre size).



that's pretty much the jist of it and it's good info.

fwiw, advance adapters also offers the parts required to complete the swap. of course you will need other misc items like an electric fuel pump and filter, throttle cable and so on but nothing major. the factory tach will only work if you buy a converter from marks. this can be bought thru AA as well although i have removed the stock tach and put an aftermarket unit in it's place and it worked out very well.

make sure you check on smog requirements in your area. sometimes you have to run the catalytic converter(s).

as for the wiring, you can have the stock harness modified or you can purchase a new harness from aftermarket companies like howell engineering. they can also supply you with the fuel pump, fuel filter, O2 sensors and bungs, they can re-flashthe ecm module for you,.....and their tech department is second to none.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
 
FYI: You could use your stock fuel pump, I know some have and are using it.
I have a FJ60 and swap my stock tank for that of a 62 and put in a walbro pump.
The intank pump is much much quiter than an external pump...and it pumps out the required 65psi to run the engine.....

Good luck and post some pics...
 
Get the Downey swap book - $25 but worth it.

How about putting the 62 axles & tcase under the happy wagon instead?
 
FYI: You could use your stock fuel pump, I know some have and are using it.
I have a FJ60 and swap my stock tank for that of a 62 and put in a walbro pump.
The intank pump is much much quiter than an external pump...and it pumps out the required 65psi to run the engine.....

Good luck and post some pics...

very good advice. We have done that at the shop a couple of times.

The only change we made on one of them was took out the 8mm return and supply and welded in 3/8 stainless. But that was for a Ram Jet and they are more toughy on fuel delivery problems

the LT1 should be able to run the stock pump feed and return lines
 
I can concur that the stock fuel pump will handle the LT1 even at WOT...and I mean WOT. But then again, I had other considerations going through my mind at that time. Cats are usually required, and a good idea in general, plus its a good idea to go ahead and change O2 sensors along with plugs and wires.
 
Im in greensboro wolfpack92 and I'm doing a similar swap in my 82 FJ60, just with a 5.3L vortec. You should swing by the shop and check out the project. Between my father a I we have done several LT/LS1 swaps over the years and could give you some pointers. PM or call me if you need some help with things.
Mike @ 336-460-2119.
 
Transfer Case Gear condition?

Well a year and a half later I can no longer delay the LT1 swap in my wife's cruiser if I wish to stay married. The process has officially started. What I am know discovering is projects inside the project. I took the transfer case off the tranny last weekend and noticed two gears (one on the Rear output shaft assembly and the transfer input gear) have an odd mark in the center of each all the way around. Almost like something like a wire marked both temporarily. No debris in the case or anything else apparently damaged. No way this is intended right? Since I am obviously looking at a rebuild kit I wanted everyone's opinion of those two gears and what I should do.
89FJ62Xfercase 011rearoutput.JPG
89FJ62XfercaseTransferinputgear.jpg
 
I'll yield to those with more experience with that particular T/C, but I have seen gears with that mark or similar before and I do not believe it is anything to worry about at all. The real question is how do the meshing surfaces look? From what I can tell in the pictures they look good, but pictures can lie. How was the oil that came out of the T/C? Clean, dirty, 'metal-flake'?
 

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