VVTI Timing tube seems to not rotate (doing timing belt job) (1 Viewer)

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I'm working on an 05 Tundra DC with the later VVTI engine in it, 155,000 miles. Truck runs excellent, no issues before teardown. Truck is beautifully mint, but unfortunately the original owner never had the timing belt done. I'm getting everything caught up, I'm glad I did, timing belt looks okay, but I think it is kind of stretched, the water pump pulley turned very easily against the belt, seems like that should have more resistance to me. Water pump was also beginning to leak and I found the RH cam seal had been leaking for a while. I have been following the FSM, I have everything torn down.

Per the FSM, before breaking all the bearing caps loose on the camshaft you are to take a SST like a spanner wrench and rock the VVTI timing tube, or cam gear apparatus back and forth through its advancement range and force the oil from the timing solenoid hole. I don't have that tool, but I have a large rubber strap wrench. I tried doing this, but all it would do is rotate the cams. So I went ahead and pulled the RH intake cam. LH cam is still in head, same scenario, just rotates the cams, but I get no action on the timing tube.

Now that I have it out, I have put the cam in the vice to see if the front timing tube can be rotated there. I'm using the same strap wrench, about an 8 inch handle, but I get no movement from the advancement mechanism. Further in the FSM it details checking the condition of the cam for wear and such and mentions checking this for smooth operation. I took the cover bolt out the front, little oil came out. It has been on the bench a couple days, fair amount of oil leaked out there. I don't think it has much oil left in the tube. I broke the front bolt loose that holds it to the cam shaft, the timing tube began to get loose from the cam, then I cinched it back up to see if that was the sticking point, but no change, and should not be, but thought I would try that.

How stiff should this be? I get the impression it should turn somewhat easily, but maybe I'm wrong. Has anyone else encountered this? I just wanted to make sure everything is good before I go back together, been waiting on cam seals from Toyota. Truck runs excellent, has good power. I would think if the cams were not advancing as the ECM is dictating that it would pick it up off the cam sensor and throw a code.

Thanks for the help.
 
I think I found my answer, Toyota Variable Valve Timing. VVT-i (gen.III) - https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/16-01-01_faq_vvt_3_eng.htm

Apparently the 2uz does have a locking pin in the VVTI, and mine must be properly locked. I saw examples of 1UZ VVTI cams being worked on, as they have an o-ring under that cover that can apparently fail and sling oil all over. On the one video, the guts were different from the above link, the outward appearance is also different. Those VVTI assemblies could be rotated by hand, in the video, and looked to be easily done at that.

I suspect early language for the 1UZ cam and head removal procedure could still be in the FSM??? that makes more sense now. I don't know, but they are erroneous instructions, at least in the version of FSM I found online for a 2005 Tundra.

I will quit torqueing on the poor thing and prep for seal replacement.
 

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