VSV for EGR Removal help?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by CharlieS, Jul 14, 2005.

  1. CharlieS

    CharlieS

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    I've read the FAQs, I read every post with "VSV" in it. I thought I could do it...

    Then I got home, removed the one bolt from the bottom (30" of extensions) and tried to remove the stamped steel bracket at the DS of the car that blocks off access to the VSV bracket, got the top bolt off, can't get to the bottom bolt with the combos of tools I have. No way to get a wrench or socket on that second bolt head, not from the side, not fromthe bottom.

    Even if I did, how would I remove that whole bracket from that confined space. Even worse, how would I get it all back together. It must be like one of those ship in a bottle puzzles...

    Please, somebody, tell me there is a trick I'm not seeing ??

    Please don't tell me I have to take off the whole intake plenum to do this stinkin' R&R... That looks like a major, major hassle.

    Thanks!

    Charlie
     
  2. elmariachi

    elmariachi

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    Charlie, I posted to a thread a few days ago that I thought the plenum had to come off and someone corrected me and said it could be done like you are doing it without removing it. I was at the dealership the day they did mine and they tried every trick in the book to avert removing the plenum and that's what they wound up doing.
     
  3. turbocruiser

    turbocruiser SILVER Star

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    Hi, when I worked on replacing my VSV, I removed the stamped steel bracket you are referring to. Getting that thing out of the way made everything MUCH easier. As I recall I took off the left front tire, hiked up the mud skirts there and went at it almost directly perpendicular. I used prolly 24 to 30 inches of extension and loosened the bolt. Getting it back on was no problemo at all. Hope that helps. :cheers: Ohh, another hint I just remembered, remember which order the vacuum lines go, take a REALLY good look before you remove the VSV cause in the process of taking it off, a couple of lines are going to wiggle off and if you cannot remember it might mean R&R'ing the thing twice to get it right. HTH.
     
  4. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    Well if you've read all the various VSV threads, you've heard me say to get to it by taking the throttle body off, at least 10 times then. You can score bonus points by cleaning the TB while it's off. The TB removal is just not that big of a deal. Not sure why folks are hesitant to do it this way.

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
  5. CharlieS

    CharlieS

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    Thanks all.

    Sorry, I think in my frustration, I might have confused references to removing the throttle body as references to removing the intake runners/plenum. That looks like a lot of work.

    Let me look at it again with a cool head. If it is simple as removing the throtte body, than I think I can swing it with less stress.

    Thanks everyone.

    Charlie
     
  6. turbocruiser

    turbocruiser SILVER Star

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    In the hope it helps you do not need to remove the throttle body, just go at it from below with the exception of the stamped steel bracket which will work the way i wrote above. Now, if you also want to give the TB a thorough cleaning, go for it but it is NOT necessary to get to the VSV. HTH. :cheers:
     
  7. CharlieS

    CharlieS

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    Turbocrusier,

    I don't really want to remove anythign more than I have to. I was hoping to do it without taking off any of the intake parts.

    When you did it, 0nce you remove the stamped bracket, did you remove that second bolt with a small rachet or open end wrench? Then how did you get it out? Isn't the bracket the VSV is bolted to, too big for the opening? Was reassembly hard?

    I'm impressed that you did it like that, I just couldn't see any way to do it.

    Would you swing by and show me how? :)

    I'll buy the :beer:

    Charlie
     
  8. turbocruiser

    turbocruiser SILVER Star

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    Hmmm, shoulda done the dvd for this!!! As far as I remember, this is how I did it. I took a socket, attached a 3/8" sized swivel directly to the socket, then about a three inch straight extension with another 3/8" sized swivel directly to the extension and then about twenty or so inches of straight extension. I put the socket/swivel/short extension/swivel on the bolt by hand by reaching up from underneath the vehicle and then I put the long straight section on through the wheel well openings and through the mud skirts. It was almost impossible (again all from memory) to put the whole socket/swivel/straight assembly on from the wheel well cause the two swivels make the whole thing wobble around way too much. This is why you put the shorter section with the swivels on by hand, let it rest loosely but as horizontally as possible and then marry up the longer section through the wheel well openings. The approach is as tight to the right side of the shock as possible. With this approach you are going straight through the wheel well close to the shock, then a slight left turn, then a short straight run (three inch or so) then a slight right turn to go to the bolt. Also as far as I remember I just loosened the bolt this way and then removed the thing by hand. The assembly is just the reverse: put the bolt in by hand, thread finger tight, put on the short sections of swivels and socket and such and then marry up the longer extension to tighten the thing down. Hope that helps. :cheers:
     
  9. CharlieS

    CharlieS

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    Thanks, Turbocruiser.

    That helps in a major way.

    Charlie
     
  10. turbocruiser

    turbocruiser SILVER Star

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    You betcha!!! :cheers:


    Ohh, I forgot some really important steps, specifically step #6 (cold beverage of your choice); you do step #6 first, then all the rest I wrote, then another step #6 at the end. Makes the job SOOOOO much more enjoyable! :D
     
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