I am down to the frame (axles and everything off) and ready for fitting 2000 5.3 vortec w/ 4L60E and OEM Xfer into my '75 FJ40. I will be converting all brakes as well as a SAG steering box. I have purchased from AA the (2) xfer case adapters necessary, LS1 front motor mounts, rear transfer case 6 bolt cover/cross member and a Downey Saginaw mount. Also, BTB disc. brake kits and god knows what else. Now, I can work through the program (trial and error), or I can beg for assistance from anyone having accomplished similar tasks. Primariliy, what were your mistakes. Are there any bracket and mount locations that someone has specific measurements for? Any Help? I will respond in kind with photos and project documentation as things move forward. I didn't get ramped up for a video, but I will do a CD or DVD for others pleasure from my pain.
Vortec 5.3/4L60E conversion - '75 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter uncleroy
- Start date
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My conversion was different then yours, but like you, I found that doing tons of reading ahead of time saved me tons of head pains later. I don't know if this will work for you but the biggest help I got was being able to bolt my TC mount (the AA rear mount) to the TC BEFORE pulling anything out. This way I was able to keep the driveline at exactly the same angles as before and do no driveline mods. Because I was doing a Ranger Overdrive unit (about 7.5 inches), it moved my engine forward by just the right amount. I did have a problem with my power steering pump not clearing the steering shaft for the saginal box ... I ended up using a racing style pump rather than anything from chevy.
Good luck,
Rice
Good luck,
Rice
Here are two things I know for sure:
You WILL be having your driveshafts reworked and the rear one will be short, so mount the engine as far forward as is practical. Otherwise you risk having to tolerate severe angles if you lift the truck. This will put the fan right up next to the radiator too. You may then get away without having to fabricate a shroud.
Also, with the 700R you will have clearance problems between the front driveshaft and the transmission pan. There are a couple of solutions. You can bash the pan in until the shaft clears, or you can reduce the diameter of the shaft. You might consider mounting the engine off-center to the driver's side, but you may then have problems between the steering shaft and exhaust manifold. (I have Ram's horn manifolds and lots of clearance to the steering shaft. Not sure how far Vortec exhaust sticks out though.) I have the GM Saginaw box in front of the front crossmember so clearing the box was not an issue for me. AA recommends offsetting the engine 1/2-1" to the passenger side. I'm pretty sure this is so you will clear the stock, manual steering box, which is not an issue for you.
My 350 is mounted pretty low, which lowers the center of gravity, but my fan is no longer centered vertically on the radiator and it's a squeeze keeping the exhaust tubes above frame level.
You WILL be having your driveshafts reworked and the rear one will be short, so mount the engine as far forward as is practical. Otherwise you risk having to tolerate severe angles if you lift the truck. This will put the fan right up next to the radiator too. You may then get away without having to fabricate a shroud.
Also, with the 700R you will have clearance problems between the front driveshaft and the transmission pan. There are a couple of solutions. You can bash the pan in until the shaft clears, or you can reduce the diameter of the shaft. You might consider mounting the engine off-center to the driver's side, but you may then have problems between the steering shaft and exhaust manifold. (I have Ram's horn manifolds and lots of clearance to the steering shaft. Not sure how far Vortec exhaust sticks out though.) I have the GM Saginaw box in front of the front crossmember so clearing the box was not an issue for me. AA recommends offsetting the engine 1/2-1" to the passenger side. I'm pretty sure this is so you will clear the stock, manual steering box, which is not an issue for you.
My 350 is mounted pretty low, which lowers the center of gravity, but my fan is no longer centered vertically on the radiator and it's a squeeze keeping the exhaust tubes above frame level.
While I can't provide any help, I am interesting in hearing about the end results of this project as the 4L60E conversion is one I'll most likely be persuing in the future.
Read the tech articles on this site and then go through all of the archives of the Yahoo Vortec Users Group.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VORTECcruisers/
There have been a lot of questions asked on the Yahoo group about this exact drivetrain.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/VORTECcruisers/
There have been a lot of questions asked on the Yahoo group about this exact drivetrain.
When I did my conversion 15 years ago I spent a lot of time making sure everything was centered, only to find out later it is suposed to be offset slightly (I believe to the rt side.....too long ago & too many beers) My setup was with the TH350, short AA adapter to stock 3sp TC. My orig setup was with the short waterpump. I since changed to the long waterpump which has put my fan about 1 1/2" from the radiator.
Hey I am in the middle? Point of no return on a 5.7 vortec 4l60E swap with my FJ 62. I have the 2 AA adapters and the rest of the mounts bushings etc. Here is what I have learned on this swap. Lots of test fits before it is right.Snap ring did not fit and the out put did not fit. I still need to figure out the t case linkage the supplied bracket misses by @ 3.75 inches. I have a B&M shifter, I used them on a FJ40 an liked it. You can mount it anywhere. Thet seem safe and reliable. I have rams horns and vortec manifolds we'll see what is a better fit. I hope to mount the eng/trany this eek end. I'll post any great new news. Last, LOTS of folks on this site know lots of good stuff. So thanks for all the info and support. JL
